Savington

iTrader: (31)

Group Buy Pricing for package deals is as follows:

Brackets only - $149, $49 deposit due
-TSE brackets only, no hardware

Brackets + Rotors - $499, $125 deposit due <-- Upgrade package for our current BBK customers
-TSE brackets
-Wilwood rotors (rings, hats, and hardware)

Brackets, Calipers, Lines, and hardware - $499, $125 deposit due
-TSE brackets
-TSE hardware and lines
-Wilwood Dynalite calipers

Full Kit - $839, $205 deposit due
-TSE brackets
-TSE hardware and lines
-Wilwood Dynalite calipers
-Wilwood rotors (rings, hats, and hardware)

Full Kit w/ pads - $899, $225 deposit due
-All of the above, plus..
-One set of Hawk DTC-70 or Hawk HP+ brake pads

If I have quoted you a higher figure in PM, ignore it.

Deposits are nonrefundable. Group buy pricing will apply through January 31st, at which point all prices will go up by at least $50-100. Send deposits to info at trackspeed engineering dot com. Be sure to include what package you are purchasing as well as a shipping address.

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I've mentioned this privately to a couple of folks but I'm throwing it out there for all the track junkies to see. Posting it in here vs. the GB section to make sure all the track junkies see it.

Wilwood offers an 11.75x.810 front rotor ring that's bigger than the Corrado rotors most of us are using, and correctly vented as well. The hats are $125/side initiailly, but the benefit is a friction ring that is CHEAP to replace, like $31 retail cheap. This is less than I pay for Corrado rotors right now.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...160-0471&dds=1

I have 4 people including myself that have expressed interest in a setup like this. It will be identical to our current kit, except the design of the bracket will change a bit to meet the larger rotor. If you don't have the calipers/lines already, I can do a package deal as well, just contact me separately.

These should clear 15x9 +36 6ULs, I am not sure about any other wheel as of yet.

The more people I can get in on the buy, the cheaper they get (obviously). If we don't get a LOT of interest this will likely be a single-run product unlike our other group buys. Pricing will depend on how many folks we can get, but don't expect to pay less than ~$200-250 for a set. I'd like to offer them for what our current 11" Corrado brackets cost ($170/set) but not if I lose money doing it. Low-quantity high-quality CNC aluminum brackets aren't cheap. :(
If I can get like 6-7 people I will have the drawing done and sent out for an actual quote.

Who's in for cheap big-*** rotors?

0. Sir Curly
1. Savington
2. hustler
3. dtfastbear
4. Kotomile
5. jasonb
6. genesplicer
7. rharris
8. doward

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

If this setup will clear 15x9 6ULs, should it not also clear the 15x8s? Not sure how much of a shoehorn job this is. Reason I ask is that my car will still be street driven, so I'll be running NT01s on 9s for the track but want to keep my 8s shod with a more street-friendly tire, so whatever I do for brakes ideally would fit under the 8s as well.

Can you PM me a price/breakdown for the whole shebang assuming you get these made... brackets, calipers, associated mounting hardware, hats, rotors, lines.

Whatever I end up doing will involve a two-piece hat & rotor, so if the 11.75" setup fits under 8s then I suppose I will get to weigh the cost/benefit of your stuff versus the new-ish 11" two-piece Wilwood kit that 949 & Goodwin are selling. Because I think that's my other contender at this point.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Scott, you'll have a PM in a second. This really isn't meant to compete with the 11" Wilwood setup, I can't sell an 11.75" setup at cost for the retail price of the new Wilwood kit. If you think an 11" rotor will do the trick and higher replacement costs don't bug you, get one of the new Wilwood kits from Emilio. I want the cheap 11.75s because I've thrown away 4 or 5 sets of Corrado rotors this year due to cracking/warping/grooving and I need something that's flat out bigger.

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

Got your PM, thanks.
No, of course I understand that. And for the price you're talking, I'm leaning towards 11.75" stuff despite the higher initial outlay, not only for lower rotor costs, but also to just start with as much brake as I can fit under the wheels with hopefully as much thermal capacity as I can ever see myself using in this car, and not worry about it again. It's me wanting 11.75" stuff, if it will fit under 15x8 6ULs, which I don't believe you've answered yet. C'mon, you're in Kali, 6ULs be flowin there like water from the hills, mock it up for a brotha. Hustlicker is on your list and purports to drive his car on the street; is he ballin harder than I thought and actually driving to work on his 9s and NT01s?

Without turning this into a [your 11.75" stuff] versus the Wilwood 11" kits, I'll just ask... how much of your Corrado rotor fail do you think is attributable to the rotor's inadequate design (shitty venting) versus its mere size?

There should be more interest in this thread, because you're all a bunch of filthy liars if you say you're not feeling genitally inadequate for running anything smaller than bbundy's 11.75" rotors.

tann3r

iTrader: (6)

Sent you a PM Sav.

Also what are the chances of setting up a bracket for the rear? Since i'm running my proportioning valve wide open on the stock 1.8 setup, what options are available for the rear?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

M-Tuned already makes a bracket for running 1.8 rear calipers on a 10.9" Sport rotor. You can also grab the entire Sport caliper to go along with the larger rotor. I'll probably end up with the M-Tuned pieces.

Bias should be perfect with an 11.75" front and a 10.9" rear rotor - my current bias is essentially perfect and going from 11"/1.8 rear to 11.75"/10.9" rotors shifts bias rearward by 1%.

Trey and I have both tried the Racing Brake replacement rotors (at $100/pop shipped). I destroyed my set quickly, and Trey cracked one of his recently as well. That leads me to believe that it's size vs. shitty venting.

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

Do you think the .75 of an inch will really help enough to prevent warping and cracking?

So if i were to get in on it, this is essentially just a new bracket w/ centering ring for said larger rotors (that are also cheaper than corrados?) These would be using the same willwood calipers and pads that are used in TSE's BBK already?

jasonb

wow, thats too good to pass up. i'm in.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

count me in

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I have 1st gen, ET40 15x8's so this is going to probably be a problem. However, when I burn-up my Corrado set-up these will go on and Emilio will probably have to sell me another set of 8's for the street.

This might also cure problems associated with rotor warpage with heat. After I track my car, my rotors only wear on the inner and outter side of the outboard surface, which tells me they are changing shape with heat.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

You should PM tehJeffman, he's ready to step-up to real brakes.

orion4096

iTrader: (22)

I'm a maybe, but won't put money into it until they have been tested on a 15x9 wheel.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

So I can get these brackets and throw my old TSE brackets away? How much lighter are these rotors compared to the corrado rotors?

Will offset change much? I'd need to know if they'd clear my wheels as the current TSE BBK does.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

There are far more rotor ring options in the 11.75" size. Straight vanes, curved vanes, multiple manufacturers, suppliers, outlets, etc. It's a far more common size than 11". The 11.75" size has more developement, racing time and greatly decreased cost. It's a winner all the way around if the Dynalite will fit over it and clear your wheels.

bbundy

This is true I have been running 11.75” rotors for a number of years and have tried many brands. Before that I had cracked and destroyed several sets of corrado disks.

The cheap $30 Ultra Light 11.75” ones actually seem to work pretty good. And they are lighter than the curved vane HD rotors. The only thing I didn’t like about them was my dyna-pro pads sweep out a slightly larger surface area than the cheap rotors had avalialble so they would develop a lip where they hung over the inside of the friction ring. They also tended to run a little hotter than curved vane HD versions and they start to show the small cracks much sooner.

My opinion is I like the cruved vane HD rotors better. And anything with slots felt like garbage. No slots for me. I am currently running curved vane rotors from Coleman Racing and they seem to be the most durable I have tried.

Bob

aznDragonX

iTrader: (5)

Sav, will it clear 15x8 +36 6UL? I am in the same shoe as ScottFW.

bbundy

You should seriously look at my rear brake setup. I bet brackets for it would be less than $10 to get produced in small quantities. The only problem is I think the stock caliper won’t work with off the shelf 11.75" non vented thin rotors and a 15X9” wheel due to clearance issues with the banjo bolt and the parking brake. Mine are custom 11.44” and I originally chose that size because wilwood made an off the shelf steel rotor in that size. I later found out Steel really sucks for a rotor material so I went to Coleman and had some custom machined from Iron blanks ~$100 each for the rear disks.

Much better match for an 11.75” front.

Bob

kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

I'm in if they fit 6ULs

Savington

iTrader: (31)

You could throw them away, or use them as a doorstop, or a paperweight, or as a cooking utensil, or replace your family photos on the mantle with them, or you could form a religion around them and worship them.

Or you could just sell them.

Offset will go slightly inboard, further from the spokes. This may bode well for the 15x8 +40 guys but I won't know until I stick a 36 on it to check for bell clearance. 11.75 is a big honkin' rotor. Perhaps bbundy or cueball can comment on wheel clearance since they both have adapted Mini kits?

The jump from 1.8 rotors to 11" rotors adds 10% to the surface area of the rotor. The jump from 11" to 11.75" adds an additional 9% surface area to the rotor. It's not quite that black-and-white since thermal mass, etc. plays a role, but the general idea is that the 11.75 rotor should be a worthwhile upgrade.

Same calipers, same pads, same lines. The only thing that changes is the bracket.

If they don't clear 9s, they won't get made. Once I have a set of rotors here I will stick a caliper on one and bolt up a 15x9, 15x8 +36, TDs, OEM 16" Sport wheels, and whatever else we have laying around at the time to confirm clearance.

It's just not necessary IMO. Sport rotors already exist, they are fairly cheap, and I have no problems with the rear brakes eating pads or cracking rotors or doing anything funky. It's just a ton of added cost for little/no benefit.

orion4096

iTrader: (22)

Track tested is what I mean. With the corrado brackets my 15x8 gen1 6uls rubbed the dynalite caliper in one spot on the track on the driver's side.