Rotaryjunky and Tabs, I appreciate the kind words.
You got me to thinking about the whole hot-rod scene as it stands today. For the most part, it seems that the images portrayed in the media are mostly about the “wheels-n-chrome” set, who mostly pay others loads of money to do their work . And what little attention is paid to the DIY crowd focuses on bolt-ons. You know: “I gained two and a half HP with this hi-performance air intake” and so forth. Thank God hydraulics and neon have fallen out of favor.
It actually makes me wonder if, outside of a few small sects such as our own, the shadetree hot-rodder still exists anymore. You know, the guy down the street who can fix damn near anything with an oxy-torch, a socket set, and a pile of parts that used to be a ’52 Merc.
I really hate hearing people bitch about how hard it is to work on cars nowadays, what with computer-controlled EFI and such. What, like jetting Weber carbs and futzing around with distributor weights was easy?
I’ll take a wideband 02 sensor, MAP, and a dash-mounted tablet PC any day!
Where I work, there are two other guys who I’d classify as motorheads. One is a serious Mustang fanatic, the other has gone through an RX-7 and a ‘Vette and is currently flogging a very nice ’82 911SC. What bugs me though is that neither of these two are hands-on; Dave (the Porsche guy) doesn’t even change his own oil, and Jon (Mr. Mustang) paid someone to install a Vortech. C’mon, a Vortech install can’t be that hard! And these guys aren’t dumb- Dave is a CAD draftsman, and Jon is a serious electrical engineer who, among other things, designs ICs.
At any rate, I really appreciate the comments. Honestly, my car isn’t all that special (it's actually pretty ugly in places), I just enjoy tinkering.
Tabs, I guess you’ve noticed that this server filters out the domain name of the guy whose link you posted. That’s how much we don’t like Jim.
But to answer your question, I posted a pretty complete inventory of materials used (and vendors who I bought them from) in the first and ninth posts of this thread. But to summarize, I used the following:
3x 2” 90° aluminum bend
1x 2” 45° aluminum bend
1x 2.25” 90° aluminum bend
2x 2.5” 90° aluminum bend
1x 2.5” 90° steel bend (to weld idle and BOV fittings onto)
2x 2.5” 90° silicone elbow
1x 2”-2.25” silicone reducer
1x 2.25”-2.5” silicone reducer
4x 2” silicone coupler (cut from 12” length of 2” silicone hose)
3x 2.5” silicone coupler (cut from 12” length of 2.5” silicone hose)
1x steel heater nipple (for the idle hose, it was either .625” or .75”)
Misc fittings and pipe for BOV (varies by which BOV you use)
Whole lotta clamps
With the intercooler itself, you’ve got some freedom of choice size-wise. I’d recommend less than 27” overall length (end to end, not core length) and if you use one with something other than 2.5” ends you’ll just need to adjust the size of a few of the pipes and couplers. You should look for 2.5 to 3” thick for the core, height is whatever you think reasonable. Mine is about 6” tall.
And for the record, there’s a guy on this list called Stripes who sells a complete intercooler kit comparable to mine for about the same money as what I’ve spent on parts. His banner is at the top of this page – MX5projects.com
As an aside, here are some pics of the new pipe I made to go between the AFM and the compressor inlet. I didn’t want to drill out the stock aluminum piece since I still need it to pass smog. This is a piece of 2.5” steel exhaust tube, mandrel-bent 180° on a 3.75” radius (the tightest I could find). Summit part SUM-621008. I cut a wedge-shaped piece out of the middle to open up the angle a bit and then welded it back together- it maintains pretty much the same geometry as the stock piece. The air filter is a K&N RU-4950. It’s all rubber (no chrome) so it doesn’t chafe the underside of the hood.