Welcome to Miata Turbo Forum - Turbo Kitten is watching you test compression.
Welcome to Miata Turbo Forum - Turbo Kitten is watching you test compression.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I first began by openning the trunk and removing the spare tire, and then the carpeting. I knew that I was going to have to either run the line underneath the car or find a way of running it within the car. Being that I am currently at school and have no means of getting under my car I decided that I would snoop around and try to find a way to get it from back to front without ever going outside. I was able to find a way which you will see in photos to come.
Next I removed the passenger side seat, the door sill covering (both pieces). Took out all the plastic tacks holding in the carpet behind the seat and on the passenger side carpet on the deck where the rain rail is. I folded those over the driver side carpet out of the way. Then take off the plastic piece in the floor board agains the right wall, right under the dash. The same piece that needs to be removed to get to the ecu. Now fold back the carpet on the floor as much as you can to get it out of the way. I then removed the metal foot tray protecting the ecu. The is all the prep that was necessary to do the cable routing.
So now the installation can begin! The spot I picked in the trunk was in the right bottom corner of the sunken part. I had considered mounting it on the slanted part in top rear of the trunk but I decided that I really didnt want it there. I don't ever really put much in my trunk so having it on the floor wouldn't be a problem. Also in the future I plan on remaking my carpeting and forming a plywood shhet to cover up the sunken part completely.
In this picture you can also see my original method of mounting the tank. The straps did not work at all in the position like I thought they would. It holds the tank tightly, but the tank is able to pivot on the edge. I saved mounting the tank for last.
Next, I ran the wires and tubing into the passanger compartment. Usint the battery cables as inspiration and after removing the carpeting directly behind the seat I found a space. There is a silver bolted on sheet or metal about chest height sitting down underneath the carpet there. Along the bottom edge of the sheet where it bolts down the edges are raised. If you go to the section of the edge nearest the outside of the car you will see a hole the leads directly into the trunk. You should also see another little bundle of wire coming out of said hole. I wish I had taken pictures of this directly while I was installing, but I forgot my camera the whole time. I did take a shot today from inside the trunk though to show you where it should go.
You can see how the wires run to the right. There is a openning right there to the passenger compartment. The small bundle of wire nearest the black water line are my power and ground wires.
Here is a picture of my cables routed alongside the batter wires inside the trunk.
Now that the pump power lines and the water line were ran into the passenger compartment I moved into there to continue the installation. I ran my wires and water line downward from that hole to and through the 2 white plastic channels along the door sills. The only wires I ran this way were the RED power line, and the GREEN map signal feed. I crimped the pump ground and the controller ground cable into one of the supplied circular terminators. The ones that look like a bolt should go through them. I grounded them on one of the bolts that holds down the silver metal sheet I was talking about above. The point is inches from the hole I routed the wire/line through. Here is a picture illustrating the routing point. I really wish I had an actual picture of this.
I am using megasquirt, so I just added a wire to pin 1 of the map sensor(it has the little divit in it) and connected the green wire from the progressive controller to it. Then I used one of the suppplied vampire connectors and tapped the 12V line that goes to the ECU/MS. The 12V line is WHITE with a single thin RED stripe running down it. I do not have a photo of this but it is pretty self explanatory I think.
The hardest part for me was where to find a sport from there to get the water line into the engine bay. I was almost to the point of just drilling a hole, but I knew there had to be another way. It just so happens that there is a tiny little grommet in the engine bay on the right side of the car, just behind the windshield wiper motor and wiper fluid reservoir. Its location on the inside of the car is absolutely unreachable by any hands larger than a baby's without removing the dashboard. Luckily I have ran electrical wire in a built house before and got some ideas from that. I took a wire coat hanger and folded it out straight. I then stuck it down into the hold as straight up and down as I could get it. Once about 2 ft are in it go and look in the passenger footwell. You will see it stickout out from under the heavy rubber sound deadening against the firewall. Now push about 8 inches (just for good measure ) of the water line over the hanger sticking out. Then to make sure it stays on on its trip back up there put a good sharp lump in the wire with the line on it. Make it like this -------^------. Try to make is as tight together as possible with your girly sissy hands :-P. This will be enough to keep the line from coming off. Now go back into the engine bay and begin pulling the coat hanger out, keeping it as straight up and down as you can. You will get about 1 inch of the water line to protrude before its stiffness keeps is from coming out easily. What you need to do now is remove the coat hanger by just pulling firmly, and get some pliers and pull the water line out. It will scrape a little on the hole, but it wont damage anything. The line is now inside the engine bay and you can go to town with the nozzle.
I have not installed my nozzle yet because I have not installed my turbo yet. I will be doing that this coming monday. I wish I could get some pics of the wire running up along the firewall but without undoing my interior a decent amount that just wasnt possible. Plus there wont be much to see anyway as the blower is literally right there.
Last but no least is the tank mount. I............ ....... drive my car, so just letting it chill somewhere in the trunk is completely out of the question. I knew I wanted to tap the feed line on the bottom of the tank so that brought up the question of how I was going to raise it off the floor enough yet give it something sturdy to mount to. My solution was to Go to Lowes and buy 4 4" worm drive clamps from the pluming dept, and 1 36" piece of angled steel. The steel pieces are sold in the hardware section. The piece I bought is perforated and has a 2" leg on one side and a 1" leg on the other.
I cut it in lengths roughly the same as the tank. I secured them to the floor of the trunk using #10 3/4" selftaping sheetmetal screws and rubber bonded washers (right beside each other in the specialty screw aisle). I used 6 on each piece to make sure that it wasn't going anywhere. I placed the tank on top of the bars and secured it to them by connecting 2 of the drive clamps together and running that through the horizontal perforation on the bars. It is a SUPER tight grab and has a negligible amount of movement when high pressures are applied (read: Punched). In the end mounting the pump and tank are up to you where you want them, but hopefully my tank mount method will give you some good ideas.
'91 1.6t - MS3-Pro
Since President Lyndon B. Johnson declared “war on poverty,”
U.S. taxpayers have spent $15 trillion on so-called anti-poverty
programs—a figure slightly less than the national debt.