l_bader

Another factor in the Corvette vs Miata equation is wheelbase. Longer = better when talking traction when applying high horsepower.

Moving to 17's + wider (and therefore taller) rubber is going to lead toward intruding on the fenders. They can be rolled, but really shouldn't be cut due to the welded seam there.

I don't know of any race comp tires in 245-16, however Toyo T1Rs can be had in 245/35-16. They turn 913 revs per mile vice the 914 miles a 195/50-15 (stock) tire from a late-NA.

Which leads to asking, what year car are you building? Seeing how you reference a 5-lug spacer/adapter and all...

spd579

iTrader: (1)

96. and as far as the fenders I would cut, reweld and add flares.

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

Ok I will admit I ran 17's on an NA years ago it just looked lame, and the wheels were heavy, it made the car handle like crap. Or like it belonged in CR.net

spd579

iTrader: (1)

17x9 rpf1s weigh 15.9 lbs...lighter than most 15s

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

Do you understand sidewall height=traction, on 17's you're going to be rolling on 35 sidewalls which=zero traction at 400 whp.

225/50/15 will work perfectly, or a 205/50/15 R compound.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

You need tire height.

Jtothawhat already answered your question on the last page

He ran his 400+whp car on 15x7 wheels with a 205 tire, limited issues.

One of my best friends daily drives a 420whp E30 on a 205 tire. Same tire that he used to run 7.2 @ 100 and then later ran a 6.9......same tire.

I plan to be at or close to 400whp in the summer. After much reading and reviews, I will stay with my 15x7 wheels and just use a PROPER tire.

I don't understand why you want to go through all the trouble to make those wheels work. They are not needed, plain and simple. Screwing with your fenders is just going to make it look ghetto. You're going to look really stupid when you are spinning everywhere with a dumb look on your face because you can't figure out why.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Lol. My old enkeis were 12.8

6uls are 11.3 lbs in a 15x7, still only 15.7 in 15x9.

My new konigs are 13.4.

All SM wheels (15x7) are 13lbs. TD, K1, etc.

I can only find the 17x7 rpf1s, which are $225, more expensive than anything I've listed by double, except for the 8 and 9" 6uls, which are still $36 cheaper, per wheel.

Your logic makes no sense.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Speaking of proper tires...

Would a 225/50/15 drag radial hook better on a 15x8 or a 15x9?

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

I don't think in drag racing/straight line applications it really matters on wheel width, I could be wrong. I ran 225/50/15 Drag Radials on 7" wide wheels with zero issues what so ever.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

I was thinking that taller sidewalls are so you can get more distortion in the carcass, which would imply that the narrower (to a point) would be better as it's less stiff.

spd579

iTrader: (1)

This is pretty ridiculous.... how a 17x9 can be .2 lbs heavier than a 15x9. Makes me wonder why the 6uls arent lighter considered they're made with very similar processes. Also this setup will be superior because it will have the taller tire for traction with a wider tire for grip. The size I most likely will start with will be a 235/45-17. not a 35 sidewall.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Try doing some research of your own. 15x9 6UL's weigh 12.8lbs.

http://949racing.com/15x9-6ul-nickel.aspx

And 235/45/17? Have fun with your donk. You just don't learn.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

spd579

iTrader: (1)

thats just what was stated here

Evolforce2

Maybe traction control would be a better option? Hopefully it would cost less then all the Fab work you are proposing. also depends on how you intend to use the car for Drag? Road Course or auto-x? DD-Street? Cause the wheel offset with adapters may accelerate wheel bearing failure.
But when its all said and done it's your car and you should do whatever makes you happy.

just my $.02

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

It is a great idea breh. Put on 17x9's and show us dumbasses up at the track. I ran 215/35 or 40 17's for a week because they were given to me...... They were ***** assed garbage.

dvdreith2

Here is an idea... Go buy a set of 15x9 6ul's with some 235 50 15's in an R comp!
It has more width than a 225!
It has more sidewall than most R comps for the 15's, sitting pretty at 45!
It is still a lightweight package as well!
Then go buy a set of fully adjustable coilovers.. and have an intelligent person dial those in!

Combine that with a good tune and a competent driver.. and you shouldn't have too many issues...aside from it costing you almost 4k...and this is the cheap way out!

Just think of all the money you would save! LMAO You could actually put it toward a
400whp build...you will need it!...or just buy another set of tires...

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Coming from someone who's driven R-Comps on the street (me) I can only advise that you don't do this.

They're sticky, but ONLY after you warm them up. For driving around, you'll get more grip from an RS3.

dvdreith2

I don't have an issue...the R888's are fine for street... and the nto1's are similar...
The R888's offer the size I specified.
and the BFG sports I have on my 16" Work wheels are a lot less responsive even at 40* ambient temps..
then again I'm not pushing 300hp let alone 400!

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I drove on the streets with NT01's. I know how they are. I'd rather have had the RS2's on my other car at the time.

If you're not pushing 300hp, then you'll be fine with any decent 225 width tire.