aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Title kinda explains it all. Located in Oregon

curly

iTrader: (25)

There's a guy (Richard C) in Beaverton/SWPDX that should have 2 spares. What kind of condition they're in, no idea. I'll send him a facebook message with your number.

I don't know if you met Mitch, but Richard is running his car's original long nose, polished valve cover and all. He has two other complete long nose (total of three) 1.6 engines, a front subframe with control arms and hubs, and various other parts.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I've run into Mitch on the cr.net pdx lounge. That would be awesome, give me a heads up if he responds.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Aidan, I don't know if you've messed with your IAC yet, but they are extremely robust. They tend to gum up and jam rather than have electrical problems.

Put an ohm meter across the two pins and, if it meets spec, you can save it. The spec is in the FSM (I "think" about 80 ohms, but please look it up to be sure). They're easy to disassemble and, with a little bit of carb cleaner and lubrication, return to like-new operation.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Sweet, I'll try that too. I kinda just assumed it was a toss and replace item for some reason.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Good link for you:

If you have a 1

The ohm specification is ~12ohms.

When I did mine, all I did was take it off the throttle body, shoot it up with carb cleaner and worked the little rotary valve free with a small screwdriver. Got it nice and clean. Put it back on the throttle body with a new gasket. Good for another 20+ years!

curly

iTrader: (25)

This is Richard that Has all the parts, not Mitch.

gdoehl

iTrader: (11)

Do you still need an iac valve I have on my 90. 30 shipped.