'02 into '94 with Adaptronic 440 VVT conversion
 

I've finally gotten a reasonable amount of progress installing my '02 motor. As it's not a turbo install, and I'm too lazy/busy to do two build threads, I'm keeping the primary thread on another forum.

I'm alpha testing the Boundary engineering/Adaptronic VVT -> NA kit which should allow for a plug & play VVT solution.

My goal is a mild SCCA CSP build that's still streetable. Forced induction, if ever, would be after the kids go to college.

If things go really well, I may actually try turning the key next weekend. I really want to have the car back on the road in time for Labor Day weekend autocrosses.

Won't start
 

I have everything hooked up (I think), but it doesn’t appear that the injectors are firing:
• Crank but no start
• Fuel lines feel pressurized
• No fuel smell in exhaust or cylinders
• MAT is showing 44-50*C, so it appears that isn’t setup correctly
• TPS is bouncing around with no throttle input

I’ve attached the data log and current ECU file. Another issue – when I tried to reload my saved base file or the NBB conversion file that you sent, I got a message that the ECU could not be updated with that file.

Configuration:
LC-1 wideband pulling power and grounding to NA MAF connector
GM IAT connected to what I believe is the OEM NB IAT connection

I have been offline for a while working on other projects and working in Belarus... but I'm back for a bit...

Anyhow, have you seen my install guide: https://www.miataturbo.net/adaptronic-63/440-select-e420c-install-56453/

If you follow those instructions, really the next thing you need to do is calibrate your sensors to the car. My sensors were all off by a lot, and it makes sense bec all cars are different.

I'd calibrate the throttle first, coolant temp next, IAT after, and of course if you are using an external MAP sensor... that should be done at the start. PM me if you need some help with your map or anything else...

Cheers,
Matt

Now power to the injectors right now, currently working with Travis & Adaptronic to figure it out.

Thanks,
Tim

Power TO the injectors is pretty simple.

+12 goes from the battery, through the "FUEL INJ" fuse, and into the Main Relay. It comes out of the Main Relay as a white/red wire, and then goes to the injectors, the various solenoids, the cam / crank sensors, the fuel pump relay, and the ECU itself.

In other words, if the ECU, sensors, solenoids, etc all have power, then the injectors should have power. This is true of both the '02 and '94 harnesses.

Not exactly, on the 99-00, the IAC valve gets its 12V directly from the ECU, and on the 01-05, the IAC and the OCV get their 12V from the ECU as well.

To complicate things a bit, I'm alpha testing a VVT->NA kit from Adaptronic that uses the NBB engine harness and appears to power it through the ECU.

What I think is my injector harness plug (first on the left of the group of three on the front of the engine) has a white/blue wire that appears to be the power wire (similar plug on NA harness is white/red). Backtracing it as much as I can w/o pulling my dash again, it appears to have gone to a large, blue, square connector on the dash harness.

The only white/red wire I see on that harness goes to the EGR plug. That is powered, and I will probably end up splicing the white/blue wire into that one. Pulling the NB engine fuse box apart, it appears that the white/blue and white/red connect to the same lug.

Perhaps someone knows this without me trying to trace through the bucket of wiring that I have, but the NB "engine" harness has connections for ECU, blue plug under dash, and the various engine components. I don't see where it connects into the main relay. I assume that's through the ECU or blue plug?

After looking at the 01+ wiring diagram it seems that the white/blue wire should be getting its power from the main fuse box(It is connected to the white/red wire at the main relay. Are you using the rest of the NBB electrical items? i.e. fuse box, relay harness etc..

I have a NBB engine harness completely taken apart at home. I can trace the white/blue wire for you tonight.

-Raj

No, I'm just using the engine harness (ECU to engine). I would also be curious to know if the white/red wire goes anywhere other than from 4AF (ECU) to the EGR connection.

Ok. I traced the white/blue wire to the body harness / fuse box connector. Here is a picture of the connector.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s...0/IMAG0007.jpg

The white/blue goes to the right most pin in the top row of the middle row set.

Are you using the stock ECU plugs to connect the engine harness to the Adaptronic ecu?

-Raj

True, but I'm focusing on the critical core components- the stuff that will prevent the injectors from working.



My bad. In the NB, there are two different wire colors coming off the Main Relay. White/red feeds the cam/crank sensors, the ECU, MAF, and a bunch of solenoids. White/blue feeds the fuel pump relay and the injectors. They are both the same circuit, coming from the same pin of the Main Relay.

But the white/blue one is indeed the wire you need to be following.



Here are the relevant sections of the schematic. I have highlighted each connector in the white/red and white/blue lines:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1313824392

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1313824392




Now, I don't have a Common Connector chart for the '02, but I do have one for the '00, and they appear to be similar. Here's what the X-10, X-14 and X-16 connectors look like according to the '00 manual:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1313824392





And here are the physical locations of those connectors, according to the '00 manual:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1313824392

It's definitely the X-16 connector where the disconnect is. Most likely I'm going to splice the white/blue wire into the white/red near the EGR, or perhaps using the VTCS connector, but I need to double check and see if there's other stuff that's un-powered as well.

Going backwards now. I went out last night to check exactly what still needed power and found:

ECU reporting .4v battery (Wari), reported 11.5 previously
White/Red line has 12.5v at ECU
White/Red line at EGR now has 0.04v

1: Stop breaking shit.

2: (???)

3: Profit.

Definitely broke stuff in a shithead move :facepalm:, most likely sending 24v on the white/red line. The ECU appears to have acted like a fuse.

Wiring is now setup for power to the injectors from the white/red line (spliced in the white/blue). The black/white line that powers the coils & HEGO will pull power from the NA coil power line.

Soldered a jumper wire over the part that I melted, and wired the dead 12v lines into live circuits, so I should have 12v everywhere I need it now.

Currently requires about 1/2 throttle to start and won't run below 2500 RPM. Any meaningful insight that someone can glean from the data logs would be appreciated.

Air leak
ICV stuck open

Any update, since i want to order a kit already.

Fried ECU in August, took the fall off for kids/school/Scouts/soccer, had ECU very kindly rebuilt by Travis @ Boundary, put it in car on Monday, twiddled with idle, got insurance back on the car, backed out of garage to see smoke coming out of the ECU. Car still ran, but several traces on the board that was fried earlier are black/melted.

Either I'm pulling too much power off of the white/red 12v line coming out of the ECU or the traces were damaged in the fall and had increased resistance from that damage. I'm waiting to hear from Travis on when he can get a new "vehicle specific board" from him to replace my fried ones, and he's probably waiting for me to finish a tear down of my harness.

Dash is back off of the car so I can get the wiring harness out & will move O2 & injector power from white/red wire to a solid source from the NA harness. I will also be putting a 5A fuse inline in the white/red wire and double checking the rest of the harness.

Emilio at 949 evidently had few/no problems with his setup, so we're trying to figure out just what I screwed up, as "everything" is a bit broad.

The setup shows considerable promise, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy a kit from 949 Racing as they should have things sorted out fairly well.

Currently I'm pretty sick to my stomach at possibly frying the ECU again after Travis put quite a bit of time fixing it for me, and very frustrated that it's going to be almost a year between when the car went into the garage and it's running again.

On the other hand, it should be a pretty fun car when it's done.