Adaptronic in an NB
 

I received my Adaptronic today. Base map is coming from Travis. Look for an install update later this week!

OOOOH, cant wait:)

So Stein, what is the word? You got that bitch running yet?

I am still trying to figure out which wires to use off the tps for my MAP:mad:

stein?

vlad we told you how to find it. but here's more info:

http://www.madracki.com/miata/images/wiring/00sys.pdf

page 2. upper right.

black/red is gnd
lt green/red should be +5V
green/black is the TPS output.

but get a voltmeter on that shit.

I finally figured it out:)
Thanx for the help guys, sorry for being such a noob when it comes to wiring diagrams. Like I said many times before, I'm a complete NOOBSICLE when it comes to wiring and electronic shit, which is why I got an adaptronic and not built an ms in the first place.

Stein what is the word? You got it running? Inquiring minds want to know.

I was out of town for work late this week and didn't get any time in the shop yesterday. Going to be out there most of the day.

If a reflash of the the ECU doesn't work, I'm going to start checking sensors and likely replace the CAS sensor with one from the spare motor.

I was getting a good signal in the past on the timing, but it is gone now. I need to get that back before I can do any more tuning.

Reflashed the ECU and got my CAS back. Drove it about 40 miles and the log looks good. Don't know what happened to cause it to lose the CAS, but the reflash fixed it.

I do still have the three codes that I had initially. I had cleared them before driving but they are back.

The high temp coolant code may be legit, as I am seeing peaks of 108*C, then it drops to 95*C. I still haven't replaced the thermostat. Will likely do that today. I think it is sticky. 108*C is higher than stock by a good margin.

Stein, my 99' runs pretty hot too. But it never overheats. If you do replace the thermostat use a good brand one or an OEM of the factory temperature. Also make SURE you have all the air out of the cooling system. If it's overheating and then falling to normal that's the tell-tale signs of a sticky thermostat.

Bad grounding can cause problems with MS, so it's possible that's what messed up the firmware on yours. Go over ALL your grounds and clean them up good, even do the battery connections.

I never touched any of the grounds. I should check it out.

They make a 192*F (factory temp) or a 180*. I bought a 192, but wondered if I should have gone to 180.

When I replaced the rad, I ended up running it on jackstands with the front as high as I could get it and the rear pertty much on the ground. I ran it several times from cold to full hot over a couple of days. At least 30 minutes run time so I think I should be good on air, although the thermostat is low compared to the water level, so I guess I will have to go through it all again.

Sounds like you got the air out then. The motor is clearanced to run at 192*F. Run it colder and it will cause excessive wear. Run it a lot hotter and it will cause excessive wear. Nothing wrong with the motor running at normal operating temperature it was designed to run at. You just need to have a cooling system that's designed to reject heat under all conditions such that the engine can maintain its normal operating temperature at any given load. IE-shrouding, fans, ducting, bigger radiator ;), reroute, etc. I'd work on sealing the radiator to the side of the car and work on shrouding such that all air that enters the mouth has one and only one path to exit. Through the radiator. But if you're overheating all the time, it's something like a bad thermostat.

I'm pretty sure it's the thermostat. As soon as it opens it drops to 94* almost instantly. I just reviewed the long log that I took over 40 miles. It drops like a rock as soon as it hits 108 then it creeps back up just to drop again. Plenty of cooming capacity even without the shrouding.

Glad to hear it is running :)

I also figured out why it was accelerating at low RPMs. When I would let out the clutch without throttle, it would accelerate on its own. Push in the clutch and the RPMs would drop. I had the throttle cracker set too high. Lowered it to around 8 (was 20) and it will now enough to pull the car at 1200 in first gear on jackstands, so that should be good.

Throttle Cracker? Sounds like a slang name for a white boy ricer :giggle:
Seriously though, I suppose it is preventing stall by opening the IAC a bit? I read through the manual but do not remember seeing that.
edit: OK I found it in the manual. Cool...

I had used it to try to enrichen when I touched the throttle. I see a jump in AFRs to the 17's when I crack the throttle. They immediately drop back. I forgot that I had turned it up that high when I lost my CAS the other day.:giggle: It was good to have it on jackstands, as I let it run (would hold 4K rpm) and kept dropping it until I had 1200.

Base map has 20 autotuned cells now. It runs well.

Still have the three codes from before. They come back whenever I clear them. Doesn't seem to be affecting driveability, though.

Cool that your running on adaptronic now.
Am I reading it right that your running on open loop idle control? because you wrote about the usages of the throttle cracker to get into motion.

That may be why it was affecting me sometimes and not others. I have been running in rapid learning, but had switched to open loop. That's when the problem came up. Now that you say that, I never had the problem in rapid learning. All of my driving has been in rapid learning thus far.

Hey Stein how about posting your latest Adaptronic tuning file in the next day or two (Wednesday or Thursday)? I'll have the Adaptronic in on Thursday and will be ready to plug in and tune right away.