jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Install is complete, took the first real drive today. As soon as I'd get into boost my AFR would go richer than the AEM could read. It would go to 10AFR as I approached the boost threshold. I could get it to about 5 PSI by only giving part throttle (GT2554R), but If I went WOT it would immediately go off the scale rich.

How important is it to calibrate the MAP sensor? I assume I use a vac pump and compressor to feed the MAP and then from with in WARI click the learn buttons. I should have 3BAR chosen and not custom right?

Anyone with a 3bar map and a 1.6l want share their map with me? I'm wondering if the MAP from Boundry is really out to lunch, or I'm missing something. I expected that the car would be drivable in boost, just not ideal.

Is there somewhere where people have been posting their maps?

Lots to check tomorrow.

Jay

micagreenmachine

Definitely calibrate your MAP sensor.

If you got the 3 bar MAP sensor from Travis, then yes, choose 3 bar.

Can't help with the tuning map, I'm still running a stock 1.8. Check out the VE tuning stuff, really easy to set up and get a quick base map going. (see VE tune video posted recently https://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=47419)

y8s

iTrader: (8)

you dont need to provide pressure to it.

You can do the vacuum to get the low end set and then set the high end to 300 and just tweak the high end numbers until (with no vac or pressure applied) it reads atmospheric pressure.

you can get close to actual atmo by going to weatherunderground.com and popping in your location and then clicking on the "wundermap" and picking a weather station near you that shows pressure.

http://www.wunderground.com/wunderma...ton,%20Alberta

1 inHg = 3.386 kPa

and the numbers shown are absolute pressure for both the weather station and the car

micagreenmachine

After you click on a station, click the station link in the top right hand corner of the popup. Then you'll get the pressure in millibars (hPa). Just divide by 10...



That's a great site btw. I was using noaa.gov to get my pressure readings before.

(oops, you'll have to change your preferences to metric units or both...)

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Ok, I'm stupid today.

16KPA is the minimum and 300KPA?
So I'd be needing to apply only 4.72inhg of vacuum to the sensor to calibrate it?

I know I'm missing something here.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

no, you'd need to apply 4.72 inHg of absolute pressure.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/va...ter-d_460.html

Sorry it doesn't have 16 kPa but a good vac pump should hit 12.

AutoFreak57

iTrader: (3)

I need to get around to doing this. Although, out of the box, it was reading believable numbers

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

30inHg-4.72inHg=25.28inHg on the gauge.

I think my vac pump will only go to 25inHg, but that should be close enough?

Setup VE tuning and got it to start and idle ok, still need to do a little tweaking there. Went out for a drive and as soon as I hit ~3500 rpm all hell would break loose. RPM would drop car would buck ... just like I was hitting the rev limit. I accidentally left on launch control and there is no MVSS on the NA connected. Dumb ***. But this isn't the same problem I had before, it would rev into 6000rpm provided I didn't hit boost.

When I turned VE on I adjusted all the fuel cells to 90%. Then I watched as I free reved the engine, as the crosshairs hit the various cells it calculated the % down. This is what's supposed to happen? It didn't do it during idle, is that because some condition hadn't been met (IE rpm limit)?

Is it this easy to configure VE?
-Turn on VE for map 1 and cranking fuel
-engine capacity
-injector size
-set AFR Target
-Set entire fuel map to 90%

Jay

AutoFreak57

iTrader: (3)

That is all I did. I have a good running map now, it just doesn't idle well. I'm still working on cranking. Haven't got a cold start down yet