Can one of you help me?

I have a NBB with a B6 engine and I'm having the following fault codes:

P1102 - Mass air flow inconsistent with throttle position sensor (lower then expected)

P1123 - TPS open stuck

P1504 - Idle air control circuit malfunction


In an attempt to solve the first two:
Can one of you get me the partnumber for the MAF?
mine is according to the sticker on it FS1E E5T 52271 0X13
What my microfiche told me for a BP engine is FS1E 13 215

I suspected that because of my B6 it is possible that my car has a different MAF. With that it is possible that the resistor to fake MAF has a other value then needed for my engine.

For the P1504 any help is welcome.
The input one the stock ecu isn't connected any more.
The idle valve is driven by a duty cycle signal, so I don't know how to fake it. In my opinion a resistor won't work, but I can be wrong. So far now attempt (trial and error) on my side.

 

I am guessing you are running in parallel? Doesnt the adaptronic intercept most of those signals and re-purpose them.

I remember reading in the adaptronic board that its gonna throw codes in parallel because it uses stock wires for something else.

I could be totally wrong though.

 

Since the MAF is not reading a real MAF signal, it has to read what it thinks is close enough. adaptronic will have to change teh calibration or the resistor value.

the TPS is odd... the stock ecu still gets the signal. could be the lack of grounding?

you probably can't fix the idle one. unless you let the stock ECU do all the work there. which is not such a bad option.

 

well for the P1123 open tps I whas thinking to connect the sensorgnd of the adaptronic to the sensorgnd to the ecu. Reason: on the loom TPS signal is going both to the adaptronic aswel to the ecu, but there is no connection for the gnd. And.. there has to be an closed circuit to have a signal.

 

If it works there is also a change that P1102 is away because it is an code for the value between tps and maf signal.

If I have time this weekend I'll give it a try.

 

try removing the adaptronic ground if you ground the TPS to the stock ECU. you may get serious noise otherwise.

 

Also have a post on adaptronic.com.au/forum

Rob of adaptronic says that connecting both gnds won't damage the units, but there is a change for noise.

Today I cleared the codes, but after a test drive they where back again.
So after that done, I tried to connect both sensorgnds together.
The result of my action: none!
The fault codes are still present

I just want my cel of, and not removing the bulb.

 

Problem solved!

1) I used a potentiometer (5KOhm) to provide 0,5V to the TPS input on the stock ecu. It solved P1102 and P1123 because both where caused by the fact that the stock ecu didn't saw any voltage for the TPS. I used 0,5V because 0,1-1,1V is closed throttle.
2) I used some injectors to created an impedance of 10 Ohm. Then I connected the set between 2P and 2Q to simulate the present of the IAC. This solved P1504.

The result: the MIL went of.

Its funny I had these codes, because the workshopmanual for an 2001+ BP engine miata dos not mention these. I suppose me driving an 2001+ B6 engine mx-5 is being slightly different.

Next step is to get rid of the stock lambda. I going to use an 50W resistor of 5.6 Ohm to simulate the presence of the heater of the lambda.

 

Can you think of something other than using injectors to provide a 10 Ohm impedance to get rid of the P1504? I don't have any spare injectors lying around and I'm assuming basic resistors won't cut it...

Also, how did you wire your potentiometer for the TPS?

I deleted the forward O2 sensor as well, 2x 8 Ohm 10 watt resistors wired in series worked great to fake out the heater circuit.

-t

 

Why can't you use regular resistors? Just make sure they have the proper power capacity.

 

I figured since martijn used the term impedance (resistance in an AC circuit) that there might be something special in the circuit to fake out the ecu. If I can just use a resistor, that would be great...

 

DC - resistance
AC - impedance

I don't know enough about injectors to say it would be the same though.

 

I've got the injectors for free! So I didn't try high power resistors.

What I can remember is that Ruud (the guy who sells adaptronic in Netherlands) told me that some ecu have troubles with an R because an injector is a Z (impedance).

Looking at the block wave of the signal to the injectors it is an AC signal with an offset, so it is possible that an Z is needed.

Greetz.

 

Could you offer any pointers on this? My emissions testing notification just arrived, and I'd prefer not to set the car back to stock.

Thanks