Loading map and getting started with adaptronic ecu
 

I know this is a stupid question but how do you load a map into the adaptronic ecu. I just finished installing it into the car and am not sure where to go from now. The install directions say to only insert the white 8 pin plug into the ecu then load wari. What do I need to do from there to get the map into the ecu? Is there a burn or something? Also can't I connect all the pins, not just the 8 pin since there are base maps I can use? I have both the wari 1.13 and 2.0 on my computer. When I upload the 1.13 the ecu doesn't read the base triger, ignition, and injector settings. But when I upload a map on the 2.0 all the target afr are set at 14.7. When not connected to the ecu the afr is set from 14.7 to 10.5. It's as if when I upload a map from either wari program data is lost.

Well I connected all the pins figuring that was the reason why some of the settings was missing. I reconnected the ecu to the computer and waited for the computer to read the ecu and tried starting the car and the car wouldn't catch.

if you just open the software and let it load the map, you essentially have downloaded the map from the car.

if you open the software with the computer connected and immediately hit the load button and load a map (base map, whatever), it will load that map into the ECU.

so as a short cut, open the program once before you connect and browse to the map you want and open it. close the program. then next time you open, it'll remember the directory the map was in.

Thanks y8s, just wasn't sure if there was more to it.

After installing the map I wasn't able to get the car started. Anyone see anything wrong with the settings that would keep the car from starting.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2790/...a26a6ce4_o.jpg

well for one, your max MAP is set to 100kPa and I'm pretty sure the BEGI S1 in your sig goes above that.

also, have you calibrated your TPS and MAP sensors? I bet "no" because MAP is at 46kPa at 0 rpm (it should be around 100-102 depending the weather and your location) and TPS says 4% and I'm guessing your foot was not pressing it at the time you did the screen cap.

Somewhere there is a guide for "getting started" with the steps required to calibrate everything. I'm not sure if it's in the standard WARI manual or if TravisR wrote one...

Read through all the adaptronic section threads dude: EVERYTHING needed to get started is here and there isn't THAT many threads yet so it will only take an hour or two.

Almost all the "getting started" tips and suggestions have already been posted by Travis, Stein, Zxtex, y8s, and many others.


A bunch of easy problems have also been adressed already. Read through the threads, you'll save yourself time and won't fuck anything up. Then when the car is started and running, you will have much more important questions and we'll try to help you..

BTW: y8s is absolutely 100% right in previous post.

To be honest I'm not sure what you mean by the map set to 100kpa. I'm using the base map used for a turbo with 600 injectors. Are talking about the load section of the wari? This doesn't look a setting that can be changed.

I didn't realize the tps and map needed to be calibrated. I read that intall section and thought it was just talking about what wires needed to be hooked up with tps wires.

18psi,
Trust me I have been reading the threads, the miata install manual and playing with wari for months but none of that makes sense to me until I have it up and running in front of me.

he's talking about calibrating your MAP sensor


And I completely understand what you mean by "in front of me" man. I didn't understand ANYTHING about this damn ecu til I started fiddling with it. After many MANY frustrated days when I just wanted to smash it on teh floor and light my car on fire it finally started making sense. Right now I absolutely love it.


Patience my man;)

zip your map and post it here. I'll show you what I mean.

Here you go.

Thanks to Travis the car easily started by changing the cranking fuel to the 50 ish ms/10 and changing the post crank percentage.

The car started to hunt then died off when the car warmed off. I restarted and gassed it up while playing with the fuel settings to keep it from dying. I started to smell fuel and ignored it since I figured I was running too rich. Before I knew it I stepped out of the car with a puddle of gas and a smoking engine. It looks like the injector connected to cylinder number two was leaking a ton of gas. I would say at least a whole gallon of fuel. Can I assume that this is just from it not being seated correctly into the fuel rail?

How many seconds of cranking does it take to get going?

ok throw this map away. have travis send you a real base map. there's a lot not set up right and it's better to start with the right map.

About 3 seconds.

Anyone if I should I worry about hydrolock?

lol, guess I still have a lot of work and reading to do...

That has happened to me too. You've almost certainly torn an O ring in the fuel rail. Order a new set of O rings and this time use petroleum jelly or some engine oil on them when you push them into the rail.

make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy next time.

Yesterday I installed the new o-ring on the injectors and now there is no more leak. I'm still having idle issues and when I rev it hesitates. I tried just leaving the parking lot to see if it would drive but it would stall out. There has been a whistling sound here and there coming from the intake. Last when I tried revving I notice that the vacuum would increase when the rpms rose. Is this a sign of a vacuum leak?

Your hesitation is probably due to transient throttle settings.

Have you adjusted your throttle body screw as well? Mine used to stall coming down from mid range, but adjusting the throttle body set screw helped.

did you get the new basemap from Travis?