Official Installation Instruction NB8A (99-00)
 

I thought I would post this up for reference.


Installation of MX5 NB8A Plug-in loom adapter

1. Disconnect Factory ECU from loom
2. Connect plug-in loom adapter to Factory ECU
3. Connect plug-in loom to e420c
4. Connect plug-in loom to factory loom

The e420c requires the use of a MAP sensor. The plug-in loom uses the factory wiring for the signal that originally is used for the MAF sensor. To install the MAP sensor in the engine bay the three wires need to be connected as such:

+5v -> Connect to +5V on the factory TPS
GND -> connect to GND on the factory TPS
Signal -> connect to the LtGrn/Blk signal wire that was used for the MAF sensor

Outputs of e420c as used on plug-in loom adapter

Aux out 1 -> Idle control (PWM @100Hz)
Aux out 2 -> VICS control (PWM @200Hz)
Aux out 3 -> Wastegate control (PWM @25Hz) Formerly EGR Boost Solenoid Line
Aux out 4 -> Wastegate control (PWM @25Hz) Formerly Purge Valve Solenoid Line
Aux out 5 -> Fuel Pump
Aux out 6 -> Thermo Fan
Aux out 7 -> A/C Condenser Fan
Aux out 8 -> A/C Relay

Inputs of e420c as used on plug-in loom adapter

Aux in 1 -> Clutch switch
Aux in 2 -> Neutral switch
Aux in 3 -> PSP switch
Aux in 4 -> A/C switch

Should Aux 2 out be VICS control?

Fixed, you are right.

AEM UEGO input compatibility? 0-5v or serial?

Yes it is, and either input works. You can even route it through the narrowband harness for 0-5v.

How are you suggesting people tap into the TPS wiring cleanly?
This is one area of ECU installation that I hate. Cutting into stock wiring in order to splice something else in. Are you using vampire clips (looks like crap and fails often), stripping and soldering, cutting/crimping and wrapping with tape or shrink wrap. Would be cool to come up with a cleaner less destructive method or source. I wonder if the diagnostic box has any 5v sources that could be tapped into so you're on the same side of the engine bay with all of your wiring.

Solder would be the best option. The second is probably a vampire crimp filled with dielectric greese.

I was considering making a full kit for a true plug and play standalone, but I think the cost would put the price up another 100$. If there is interest I could do it. The main stop is that I have to design the plugs and then have them manufactured using an expensive process. Then the harness has to be assembled, and pinned. There is alot to a sub harness, and we're probably talking 40-50 dollars in just materials, no labor.

The way I installed my MAP:
I've cut the wires of the loom to the adaptronic.
There are three wires: +5v/GND/MAP signal. These three I've connected straight to the MAP sensor. With this solution I still have the option to disconnect the loom, and drive completly stock. I did nothing with the original wiring, and my MAF is still there (doing nothing).

I can confirm that the AEM is serial. You need to buy a DB9 cable and scavenge it for the female end or buy a female connector. One wire to the signal line of the UEGO and the other wire to ground. That's it.

Did you follow the pinouts (2-sig, 5-gnd) in AEM manual? Is the serial input used for closed loop control?

Yes and yes. The new version of the WARI program has a drop down menu that lists the AEM to get the right protocol. The online installation manual doesn't list it, but it is behind the actual software.

So this is a dumb question but I want to be sure I have it right. The stock TPS is still used, you are just sourcing it for +5V and GND for the MAP, correct? I already have a vacuum hose routed into the cab for the MS (and my boost gauge) so I might just put the MAP sensor there and tap into the harness like martijn did.

Also, I read on a thread on the Adaptronic forum that the LC-1 can be connected serially. Last night I was looking at the software and did not see it as an option in the menu. Maybe I missed it. At any rate serial seems the way to go over analog since there is less risk of voltage offset problems. As far as the electrical connection, I am assuming I would use the LC-1 data cable, and wire a mating connector (or hack another serial harness) to get signal and ground to connect to the Adaptronic, correct?

Speaking of offsets, I am assuming we still want to use the same grounding concept as with the MS. All grounds (Adaptronic, LC-1, WBO2 gauge, etc) go to the common grounding lug on the TB, correct?

Just thought of one more question. I have converted to Toyota COPs. What are the recommended dwell settings?

Thanks Travis. I think it is great that several of us are trying this at once since it will facilitate success.

Thats correct, and you can do that, if your going to do that just use the adaptronic dedicated ground for the MAP sensor while your at it.

Goto special functions tab in the bottom left. Its listed as Innovate LM-1,LC-1. With my LC-1 it came with a serial, and I just popped it into the side of the box, and selected it from the menu. No problems at all.


When it comes to grounding you have to use the same ground source for any specific power lead. So if you use the TPS power lead, then you have to use the TPS ground lead to avoid ground loop interference.

If you don't have the dwell box to control it goto the engine setup tab and put in 1.6ms. Thats a little on the high side of the recommended 1.5. Also remember to change your cranking dwell to around 2.2-2.3.

Stein really paved the way for you guys. I'm hoping there won't be alot of problems, just smooth boosting!

Is this how you wired the MAP?

Why are there 2 lines hijacked for the boost solenoid? (EGR and Purge)

Is it acceptable to the car to never open the purge valve? Why not leave the factory ECU to control it?

What remaining functions does the factory ECU control? Alternator? Other emissions?

The reason that is done is so that you can tap into an underhood source of PWM goodness. Alternator is offloaded on the 99+, some other emissions equipment are as well. I'm currently updating the manuals more so that some of that is a little more clear.

I don't follow. Why would the boost solenoid output require 2 wires to the engine bay?

They are all 12+ and ground by ecu completed circuits. So if you wanted to run a boost controller instead of a boost solenoid, you could either run the 12v+ straight from battery, or out of the connector under the hood and the other side would be grounded by the ECU. Most prefer to grab the 12v right there at the plug just because its there and its one less wire. Unless I'm not understanding your question.

This.

Aux out 3 -> Wastegate control (PWM @25Hz) Formerly EGR Boost Solenoid Line
Aux out 4 -> Wastegate control (PWM @25Hz) Formerly Purge Valve Solenoid Line

Do I read it correctly that the factory ECU's EGR output and Purge output are both hijacked and both do wastegate ... or wait, does that mean you have 2 outputs (Aux 3 and 4), either of which can be wastegate?

The former is correct. They are arbitrarily set as waste gate, but they can be anything. If you go into the Adaptronic software under the Aux-Out tabs you can set those two outputs to be a function of just about anything else.