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Old 07-13-2009, 10:43 PM   #1
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Talking She's finally running right =)

I am so happy
Hooked up the MAP sensor that actually works, hooked up my brand new AEM UEGO that I got as a present from my friend. Got the car to finally start and hold idle and actually drive without dying all the time.

I tried the 600cc injector map from Travis' site and it DID NOT work for me at all. Idle was all over the place, the car was running really funky, and died ALL THE TIME. It died like 15 times driving 4 blocks to the gas station, even though master trim was set at 20 just as instructed and all other settings set correctly as instructed.

So I loaded in ZX Tex map, set master trim to 15%, adjusted all the other idle settings and what not, and she starts, holds idle, drives, etc.

The wideband issue not communicating with the Adap was figured out. I re-read Steins writeup and noticed he mentioned that the db9 wires should be checked for continuity as the instructions on the aem lie about the wire colors. Well guess what? He's absolutely right

I checked and instead of the green/red wire it told me to use, pin #5 and #2 turned out to be yellow/black. Note to future installers: ALWAYS check everything with a voltage tester. The instructions lie

So anywho, I am extremely happy that the car runs and drives. I still have that lean spike that Stein was talking about where when you go from 0% throttle to any other percentage it spikes to like 13-14 and then grabs and goes to the correct AFR.

Soooooooooooo, now its autotuning time. I have a shitload of questions for the more experienced people in here as well as Travis, and figured I'll make a thread dedicated specifically for them so I can finish up tuning this thing and get it running like a champ. Im going to read over all the threads on here as well as the Adap instructions one more time tonight, so hopefully my questions are not too stupid lol

Once again, thank you Travis for the new functional MAP sensor, and all the great folks that chimed in on my other thread trying to get this thing started

-Vlad


PS: uploading a quick clip of her running right now
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Old 07-13-2009, 10:52 PM   #2
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:02 PM   #3
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Congrats sounds smooth.
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:04 PM   #4
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congrats man, been a long time coming but surely worth the wait.
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:39 PM   #5
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Alright! Get to reading and get to tuning. Boy, your water temp is high. (112-113C) Check your fan on/off temps just to be sure.
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Old 07-14-2009, 12:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I tried the 600cc injector map from Travis' site and it DID NOT work for me at all. Idle was all over the place, the car was running really funky, and died ALL THE TIME. It died like 15 times driving 4 blocks to the gas station, even though master trim was set at 20 just as instructed and all other settings set correctly as instructed.
Congratulations!

Was the master trim at +20% or -20%? .....hopefully it was at -20%.
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:23 AM   #7
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Wicked good job man!

Just be sure to calibrate / teach your TPS and set your O2 sensor settings to the right ones. There are a few options outside just the serial UEGO; such as a factory O2 can be used as a fall-back if you loose your Serial connection.

As for the lean issue.. I have the same too... maybe worse. My car seems to go lean at 1% throttle with no load... cruise at 70 MPH and she'll go into 17 AFRs and my EGT temp goes over 1200!

How is your cold starting? Do you need to help the car with the pedal at all?

Good work and cheers!
Prospero
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:22 AM   #8
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Congrats man!! When do you plan on some dyno time?
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboRoach View Post
Congratulations!

Was the master trim at +20% or -20%? .....hopefully it was at -20%.
Thanx man
I'm pretty sure its at -15% but I'll definitely make sure and double check it asap.
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Wicked good job man!

Just be sure to calibrate / teach your TPS and set your O2 sensor settings to the right ones. There are a few options outside just the serial UEGO; such as a factory O2 can be used as a fall-back if you loose your Serial connection.

As for the lean issue.. I have the same too... maybe worse. My car seems to go lean at 1% throttle with no load... cruise at 70 MPH and she'll go into 17 AFRs and my EGT temp goes over 1200!

How is your cold starting? Do you need to help the car with the pedal at all?

Good work and cheers!
Prospero
Thanx
Yeah the tps and other settings are calibrated, its set to fall back on the OEM narrowband just in case, the UEGO readings are finally in sync with the Adap. The lean issue leads me to believe its the Adap? Since everyone on here seems to have this issue. Maybe Travis can shed some light on this matter?

Car is cold starting fine IMO. It takes about 2-3 turns but then she just fires right up. I never have to help it with the throttle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vashthestampede View Post
Congrats man!! When do you plan on some dyno time?
Thanx again
I dont plan to hit the dyno any time soon. I just have SOO much stuff to do around here and not that good on money right now being laid off, so I'll just road tune it so its nice and safe, and probably dyno fine tune it in a few months.

-Vlad
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:07 AM   #10
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Vlad,

How are you /or/ did you calibrate your knock sensor?

I am gonna have to do this now that the car is on the road and she gets pissed under boost. Think that the knock sensor is unhappy and pulling gas on me.

(or i have knock and just don't hear it!)

Cheers,
Prospero
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:16 AM   #11
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The knock sensor function does not pull any fuel. At most it will pull timing when it detects knock. Even then it will only do it when you are in closed loop, rapid learn, or slow converge ignition control. If you are in open loop ignition control the knock sensing function does nothing.
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:35 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
The knock sensor function does not pull any fuel. At most it will pull timing when it detects knock. Even then it will only do it when you are in closed loop, rapid learn, or slow converge ignition control. If you are in open loop ignition control the knock sensing function does nothing.
Ahh, I see... gonna sit down with the software manual / install guide today now that I have a little time to myself.

The car was pulling plenty hard at 70% throttle and boosting to ~14PSI and it was just sputtering away like someone was cutting the fuel. AFRs, now that I looked at them, were ~12.5-13.5 when this happened.

Now if I go and hit the gas fairly hard, this stuttering happens. When I slowly bring in the boost she will just take it all and accelerate nicely. I tend to think that the timing is not right but still have to read into what I should be running for timing at those levels of boost and RPM... never been down this road before and have to learn everything all over again.

It's fun, actually!

Cheers,
Prospero
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prospero View Post
The car was pulling plenty hard at 70% throttle and boosting to ~14PSI and it was just sputtering away like someone was cutting the fuel. AFRs, now that I looked at them, were ~12.5-13.5 when this happened.



Cheers,
Prospero

Chances are the knock sensor is retarding timing or your asynch values are off. I don't know how yours is set.

If you want to turn off the knock sensor retard on timing, either you need to run ignition in open loop (not really necessary) or leave in closed loop and click the "set closed loop parameters" in the ignition box and set the retard up from whatever it is to a high value, like 100 per 1*. I run with mine like that right now. The other option is to log some pulls and set a baseline knock level. Whatever you set, if the knock level is less than that, it will show as Zero on your gauge screen. That way, the knock sensor retard will still work.

If it is running OK with a roll on but sputters when you hit the gas hard, it's likely the asynch values are too high. Lower the values in the RPM ranges in the Set Asynch tab that you see the hesitation.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:15 AM   #14
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exactly what is the difference between closed and open loop ignition???
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:36 AM   #15
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Closed loop ignition kind of acts like a J&S knock guard. It automatically retards ignition if it detects knock. Open loop says the table is the boss.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:40 AM   #16
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Oh sweet, whats the point of closed loop then lol.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Oh sweet, whats the point of closed loop then lol.
you mean open?

I'll have to put that **** into closed loop. knock retardation is one step closer to not popping my motor.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:45 AM   #18
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That's what I said....... :P

If you quote me I can't go back and edit *******!
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
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exactly what is the difference between closed and open loop ignition???
Closed loop, as Travis indicated, offers retarding of timing by knock sensor reading, but it is more than that. I also compensates by adjusting timing by water and air temperature. Just like open and closed loop fuel, it adjusts timing based on temps. Take a look at the two corrections tabs under the closed loop page in the "corrections" tab.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:55 AM   #20
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How the hell is my simple mind supposed to tune all that stuff?!?!
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