ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Yesterday, my car was running fine, vvt was working well:



when I took the car this morning I found this :




Nothing changed, same config, all was running great and now is running like crap, it wont even idle. I have to unplug the OCV connector to stabilize the idle.

What could it be?

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

That is really weird, and I would take a look at the valve. Anyone have a shop manual for resistance across the valve pins? If you stick a probe in there you should see a defined resistance. Maybe 20-40 ohm?

Travis

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

I measured that: 8,4 - 8,5 ohm.

Anything else to test or should I start a new thread on the WTB section?

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

With the unplugged OCV the idle settings (open loop duty cycle) wont work, I had to set up the idle again (much higher duty cycles)

Tedsmx5

Just a thought, disconnect the battery for 30 min then reload your ecu file, the one you always save before you change any setting (, the data logger shows the output that dives your “OCV”).
It’s a cheap and quick and will remove all power to both ecu’s.
A post on the Adaptronic - forum wouldn’t go astray.
Ted

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Ted,

I removed power from both ecus and reloaded the firwmare and map file, didn't fixed the problem.

Thanks anyway

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Can someone with a 01+ check the resistance?

Tedsmx5

I walked thru 2ft of snow.... (well not realy it's about 68F outside tonight) to get this reading 7ohms. 2001 model.
Ted

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Ted.


I'll reflash the adaptronic with the last firmware and see what happen.

Prospero

Any word on what happened? Had I not been out on travel... I would have ohmed out my valve and let you know...

Thanks and cheers,
Matt

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

The car is covered with 1 inch of dust. I haven't had time to check it.

Here in Spain this Monday and Tuesday we don't go to work (Constitution day) so I have a couple of days to find out wtf is going on with vvt.

Prospero

Wow, i need a holiday too! Good luck figuring out the car and thanks for the help. I turned on VVT as you said and the car feels smoother and a tad more power in the mid-range... so that's always nice!

Thanks and good luck with your diagnosis.
Cheers,
Matt

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Update:


I found the problem!

I swapped my adaptronic with a friend's unit and everything returned to normal. My adaptronic puts 14,4v constant to the ocv valve, even if I turn off the auxout3 in wari. Also the auxout1 (idle valve) isn't working correctly, it needs 84%DC to start open with my ecu and only 60%DC with my friend's ecu.

I have not tested the other outputs yet, but is likely a problem that affects all high current outputs.

What now?

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

lifetime warranty perhaps?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

apparently replacing the blown mosfet solves the issue. a dude on the adaptronic forum found a higher rated one:

Output/Aux 3 is dead, always grounded, need professsional help

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

Its the diodes or the mosfet. Its possible the mosfet was killed by inductive kickback not stopped by the diodes though. Right now I'm collecting up the adaptronics that are malfunctioning and modifying them. So if you have an issue please email me, and I'll get it changed out.

They have no warranty that comes with the units that I know of, but Adaptronic and Boundary both are committed to making sure the customers get taken care of. If you buy the unit, and something goes wrong, I'm going to get it working for you one way or another so long as I don't have reason to believe it was neglect.

Best,
Travis

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

In my case the diodes have been those that have failed. Two of them are completely burned.

I'll fix it myself if I can find a source for buying the diodes.

Travis advised me to use 4 diodes in parallel (one on each side of the PCB) instead of 2.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Ah Thanks Travis, that really makes me glad sir. Its good to know some one is looking out for us.