y8s adaptronic harness build and installation
First off, you can all ignore the Hydra Parallel Install thread I made. :giggle:
Second, I'm mostly done with my harness. I had a full set of connectors and pins on hand already so that was cool. You may remember I opted out of spending the extra $300 on the PnP harness and decided to buy a few diodes to build my own. Not a bad deal. The other part was that I didn't like the implementation of the parallel install in a few cases so I'm taking a slightly different route for a few things. I'm actually kind of curious to compare my results with Stein for an NB. Ideally both would result in the same outcome--no codes, pending or otherwise. For the water temp, I decided to ditch the second sensor idea and had JasonC SBB show me a circuit that I could use to take the sensor data from the stock sensor without having to remove the Adaptronic's bias resistor. I'll have to do my own calibration but that'll be easy since I have both an OBDII scanner to read temps directly and the Defi gauge to verify that. The other thing I'm doing differently is the MAF trickery. I've got another circuit from Jason that uses a PWM output and converts it to a MAF-Friendly voltage. Then I just set up a 3D map (probably the 2nd fuel map) to spit out appropriate values for load and rpm. I'm hoping I can just get close and the stock ECU will never know it's jacked into the Matrix. ... So yeah, the harness is mostly done. I've got all the mazda pins crimped and inserted and a few extras I didn't need. I've got all the OEM ECU passthru connections soldered to the receptacle and shrinktubed. I've got all the splice-in connections on both ends and shrink tubed. I've got the Adaptronic specific stuff left to solder on to the jumper harness still. I've also got the adaptronic splice wires running to terminal blocks so I can jump into the OEM harness extension. I've got the schottky diodes in place for the crank, cam, and VSS signals. I need to whip up the water temp circuit and dig up the AFM circuit and that's pretty much it. The last thing to do is swap O2 sensors and run the serial cable for the TechEdge WBO2. There are already wires in the car for the injectors and COPs (not the oem harness). Much to Travis' chagrin, I'm going to try to run sequential ignition instead of batch. Since the tacho output is unused, it'll only cost me the one PWM output. For now, I'll deal. More tomorrow. |
oh i know, you guys want pictures.
harness in current state. yeah, it looks ridic. http://gallery.y8s.com/d/21549-2/IMG_1232.JPG I'm your huckleslang... http://gallery.y8s.com/d/21550-2/IMG_1234.JPG The option board. This is where intervening circuits and splices and stuff goes. It already has the schottky diodes that are equivalent to the ones on the PNP harness. http://gallery.y8s.com/d/21551-2/IMG_1235.JPG Big cap. I should put this on my COPs somewhere. I have a few of these of peeps still need them. http://gallery.y8s.com/d/21552-2/IMG_1236.JPG |
Your avatar looks like Mazinger Z.
What's the part numbers of the Shottkys, and are they to prevent noise from entering the Adaptronic? Look up the app notes for the terminal blocks you're using. Specifically check if they're designed to be used with crimp-on condoms on the ends of the wires, as opposed to bare wires. If you don't follow this, the connections will be unreliable - e.g. they will keep loosening over time. Why a 50 V cap? Couldn't find a smaller 25V or 16V one? I suggest looking for a 105°C one. The 85°C one will degrade over time at high engine bay temps. One potential issue with using a PWM output that is really an injector output, for generating the MAF voltage, is the low PWM frequency. The resulting voltage "ripple" on the PWM-to-voltage converter may affect the ECU's interpretation of the "MAF" voltage. An "integrate and hold" circuit would solve that but it's a lot more parts. :) |
the schottkys are BAT85 which is what I found that was similar to the ones listed in the adaptronic diagram (BAT54S). stripe is on the car side, not the adaptronic side.
the term blocks have little feet to crimp the wire. I will have to check on that. or wait for them to loosen. :) 50V 85C is what I had lying around... the adaptronic PWM outputs have selectable frequencies and maps. you can point to one of several places for map values (logical, 2D, fuel, spark) and set the frequency independently. ie I can run the spark or fuel map and set it to 200, 250, 500 or 1000 Hz if I want. Was planning to use 500Hz. I think that's close to what we used on the Tec, isn't it? |
1 khz is better than 500 Hz.
You have a schematic of where the Schottkys are mounted? |
You guys are too smart for my own good. I'm not watching this thread anymore because it makes me feel dumber than I already am. Props to you Matt for figuring this out.
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 394709)
1 khz is better than 500 Hz.
You have a schematic of where the Schottkys are mounted? schematic: http://y8spec.com/adaptronic/NBB_Plug-in_Schematic.pdf they're big and blue at the bottom. note they use a 3 pin device and i use a discrete diode so I wont have the diode bridge to nowhere. the rest of the schematic is not what I'm using necessarily fyi. |
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 394715)
You guys are too smart for my own good. I'm not watching this thread anymore because it makes me feel dumber than I already am. Props to you Matt for figuring this out.
but i'm still a noob compared to jason. |
last night I think I finished up pretty well. I think that was because I had help.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._3107935_n.jpg |
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 394721)
can do 1kHz. how about 2kHz??
schematic: http://y8spec.com/adaptronic/NBB_Plug-in_Schematic.pdf they're big and blue at the bottom. note they use a 3 pin device and i use a discrete diode so I wont have the diode bridge to nowhere. the rest of the schematic is not what I'm using necessarily fyi. |
got the thing wired in. need to mount the WBO2 sensor and make sure it all works before I button it up. in the mean time, I'm making my map.
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Nice work Matt.
Another forum member with a 2001 wants to know where you sourced the connectors. Did you buy everything at Tyco? Thanks |
been lazy. didn't fire it up today. wanted to make sure it all worked (during daylight) before doing that. as of right now, the adaptronic and wbo2 aren't getting power. should be an easy solution since the power comes off the main harness from the car and plugs in. dont feel like digging under the dash in the dark though.
oh and I have to update my WBO2 firmware. I think I also have my base map set up pretty reasonably. I ported over all my spark data from the hydra and just left all the defaults in for most of the rest. I also added the "AFM trickery" map. Rafa: I got the 3 plugs from tyco as samples. I got the pins from onlinecomponents.com. I got the receptacle/header (the one on the ecu) from a now-defunct company I can't remember. It is ridiculously hard to source. I would try starting with Boomslang or just buying their pre-made harness and hacking it as needed. |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 397972)
Rafa: I got the 3 plugs from tyco as samples. I got the pins from onlinecomponents.com. I got the receptacle/header (the one on the ecu) from a now-defunct company I can't remember. It is ridiculously hard to source. I would try starting with Boomslang or just buying their pre-made harness and hacking it as needed. It was for Ismael_pt. I'm sure he'll read this post. If so; Ismael go to both tyco and onlinecomponents.com and search for those. Many thanks. |
Yes, searching right now. Thanks Matt and Rafa.
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Got it.
353110-6 Product Details - Tyco Electronics Matt, can you verify that it is the correct one? Edit: big fail. |
Originally Posted by ismael_pt
(Post 398133)
Got it.
353110-6 Product Details - Tyco Electronics Matt, can you verify that it is the correct one? Edit: big fail. Connectors: 353027-1 (17 pos) 353029-1 (24 pos) 353031-1 (31 pos) Pins: 316836-1 (72 minimum required) the receptacle needs to have 17, 24, and 31 position holes. you can get JUST those 3 or you can get those three plus others. depends on what you can find. |
I can't find the 17-24-31 receptacle, and is the only one I need. I want to run a standalone installation, and my idea was to attach the loom to the receptacle and use it as a PNP harness. What is the function of the diodes?
sorry to thread jack |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 397972)
I got the receptacle/header (the one on the ecu) from a now-defunct company I can't remember. It is ridiculously hard to source. I would try starting with Boomslang or just buying their pre-made harness and hacking it as needed. |
nonthreadjack update:
found my power issue. one of the traces on my little adapter board was cut. no power was getting through because it wasn't physically connected. doh. so I powered it all up, updated everything. not sure the Adaptronic is getting data from the wideband so I'll have to check that. I also have to verify all my shared sensors are making sense. so far it seems ok. I didn't do much with it though because it got dark and rainy. |
got the wideband sorted. apparently free air is just off the scale so I wasn't getting any readings at key-on. duh.
i cranked it up a few times and got lots of whiffs of 93 in the air. never did start though. sputtered some. I think letting it sit before I try again is a good idea. also I think it'd be a good idea to verify timing. I also gotta calibrate my sensors (other than TPS) but I'll get to that. I need some nice weather here. thunderstorms blow! |
guess what fired up and ran today. my car that's what!
first, the trigger settings were all crazy. crank sensor set to cam, cam sensor set to crank. I also switched the crank to "rising edge" based on some research JasonC did a while back for the AEM settings. so once I did that, it started once so I knew I was on the right track. except it idled at 9:1 AFR. haha I dropped the fuel by about 80% everywhere and it liked that a lot. now I gotta figure out why my super tricky CLT sensor circuit isn't doing what it's supposed to. oh btw, it pooped up two MIL codes: P0102 (displayed) air flow meter voltage low P1569 (pending) VTCS voltage low will play more later. for now I'm just happy to have something happening other than raw fuel up my nose. |
Hooray for progress, hope you can make the dyno day.
Hoping I can have my car running well tomorrow. |
Wow, the progress is looking nice! Can't wait for more updates and to see this beast in person.
good luck with the rest of the install and please keep posting so we can all learn more!!! Cheers, Prospero
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 399739)
guess what fired up and ran today. my car that's what!
first, the trigger settings were all crazy. crank sensor set to cam, cam sensor set to crank. I also switched the crank to "rising edge" based on some research JasonC did a while back for the AEM settings. so once I did that, it started once so I knew I was on the right track. except it idled at 9:1 AFR. haha I dropped the fuel by about 80% everywhere and it liked that a lot. now I gotta figure out why my super tricky CLT sensor circuit isn't doing what it's supposed to. oh btw, it pooped up two MIL codes: P0102 (displayed) air flow meter voltage low P1569 (pending) VTCS voltage low will play more later. for now I'm just happy to have something happening other than raw fuel up my nose. |
-- wrong thread --
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