car wont idle
 

Hey guys,

i've been working on this for a while. I've had leafy try and help and my tuner with no luck. We've managed to get the car to start, but it only idles for maybe 2 seconds before it dies. I also seem to be getting timing scatter. I think i'm going to have to run wasted spark with sequential fuel but wondering if anyone else has ideas.

94 with non vvt, 12+1 crank and moded 1 tooth cam.

heres my cal file.

Have you resolved this?

Not yet. I just got my NB style cam sensor installed. Hopefully this helps. I'm also not sure if I'm having a coil fire problem so I ordered a fab9 cop kit but until then I have a used Toyota cop kit

does it run if you keep the throttle open at all? whats the afr look like?

is your tps reading 0% when calibrated?

also your idle% vs target looks all bad.

So now it doesnt run at all. I'll give you the run down... i had a 12+1 trigger wheel and tried to get it to work with the stock NA cas sensor using J_Mans settings for a 12 tooth wheel with no luck. so after getting a hold of a Hall effect sensor and NB cam gear i tried the trackspeed settings for their 12+1 with even worse luck, massive amount of timing and sync errors. so since my car isnt VVT and i dont plan on doing it anytime soon, off came the extra tooth.

so now i'm at a 12 tooth wheel with a nb cam sensor, basically just a high resolution NB set up. i get perfect start sync and 0 timing or sync errors now.

now onto the start up, when i had the 12+1 and NA CAS it would start everytime but run for about 3 seconds because it got timing errors everytime it saw the 13th tooth, the rpm count would double sending the fuel map off into the 4000s and stall the engine. i found this out via the log. After adding the NB style CAM sensor i got similar results.

but since then, i havent got the car to even studder or show its sparking. its hard for me to check spark as i'm by myself during the week. but i've tried 2 coils and a COP system (i tried every setting i could find on the forum to get this set up, still no luck). so i'm thinking i have a blown relay, or maybe some ground or power distribution issue. but it seems weird that its just happening now and not from the beginning. not sure what else i can check at this point.

sorry thats long...

yes i calibrated the tps and made sure it doesnt throw and error code for over travel.
and i'm not surprised the target looks stupid, i have the idle control unplugged until i can get it started then i plan on fixing that. do you have a screen shot of a good idle% graph. I'll check around on the forum for one.

Give this a try.

awesome, i'll try it when i get home from work. Also waiting on your COP kit to come in, hopefully that will help too.

did you guys add fuel into the fuel map to get it to fire over while cranking? cranking forever to get it to sound like its going to turn over?

reason i ask is i seen no initial crank pulse.


interpolate idle% from 500rpm at 43% to 3000rpm at 90%

anyone else? that how i have my car setup. seems to work.

once you get sorta idleing.. there are really good articles on ka-t and evolutionm about tuning idle. google it up

So, with a 2nd timing light and a multimeter i have deduced that the EMS4 fried its coil driver (read- is a piece of junk). while having the timing light on while cranking i get no spark. i know it is possible because during initial key-on i get a grounding spark that will flash the light be beyond that nothing. This is of course in conjunction with start sync, no timing or sync errors and pretty much everything else confirmed to be correct and working.

Also would like to point out that AEMs tech support was not the kindest in trying to help and basically just told me i was wrong and that their box is fine, but eventually decided to take it in on RMA.

Never going AEM again. if you are reading this and cant pick a ecu, get a built MS3 or spend the extra money and get a good unit.

thanks for all the help so far guys.

Hey all,

its been quite a while, summer has been busy, finally getting back into working on my car every day. I have gone in a pretty big circle at this point.
-currently i'm running a 12 tooth wheel and NA cas modded using J_mans settings.

Basically what happens is i cant get a consistent timing location, i get no timing errors and start sync but when i have a friend crank the car (injectors off) timing is anywhere from 10 to 40 degrees, thats as close as i can get it. and when i try to start it. it just revs up and gets a million timing errors and stalls out. do i have a bad set up somewhere or are my settings wrong?

Thanks for the help. I'd like to get one drive in before winter :/

why does it look like your phasing setups are all mixed up?

Quick search and i found.

Cylinder 1: Inj Tooth 6, Ign Tooth 0
Cylinder 2: Inj Tooth 0, Ign Tooth 6
Cylinder 3: Inj Tooth 12, Ign Tooth 12
Cylinder 4: Inj Tooth 18, Ign Tooth 18

sav?jason?

Is that what's correct for the 12 tooth with 1 sync cam? Surprisingly I've found and tried multiple phasing set ups online. I've been tending to lean toward the settings given to be me by trackspeed for 12+1 with nb cam set up with sequential spark. So maybe that makes a difference..? Obviously in my tune I changed it to be wasted.

The settings for our 12+1 wheels and the settings that J_man posted for the 12-tooth wheel with NA CAS are totally incompatible.

Care to explain how the tooth phasing is different? I know the sync and a tooth are different but I can't seem to find anything explaining coil and injector phasing for 12 tooth with cas mod.

its pretty unclear there should be a stickied thread in this section of the forum