F/IC Injector Wiring Question
 

Hey, On Dustins F/IC Install he uses what I believe is called "batch injector" wiring. However on the AEM forum
"The FIC's injector drivers can only supply 1.5A current, so you can only wire one injector to each of the FIC's injector outputs. You will need to add a couple wires going to the injectors. Wire it like this:
"
Which is the 1-3 wire being tapped by the 1 in and 3 in wires into the FIC, and then the 1 and 3 wire out being rewired to the injectors. Any reason to do this over the suggested wiring done by DB?

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,22481.0.html

See last post^^

Also, in case it is pertinent, it’s a 1992 Miata looking to run 330ish CC injectors. Thanks!

I was able to run 440cc toyota supra injectors no problem with the wiring I had on the f/ic. It's a piggy back unit designed to use the factory ECU so I wouldn't recommend running custom wiring from the unit.

Thanks DB, I was hoping youd chime in.

so, do we follow the schematic indicated by the AEM administrator?? I'll be installing my FIC on saturday...

I believe you can wire any two or three FIC circuits to either injector pair. What you must do is use the same FIC injector in's and outs for a given injector circuit. The point is to use more than one FIC driver per circuit so that the current draw through any one driver is not too great.

I wired mine as per Dustin's diagram and it's working perfectly. There are other valid ways to wire it but his is proven.

Another question is:

If I remove my OEM narrowband sensor completely from the main harness and replace it with the AEM wideband signal instead, would it work?? I'd like to do this because my OEM sensor is scraped and my wideband is new. I have only one bung on my exhaust to install my oxygen sensor into. I done this with my 4e-fte (toyota turbo engine) and it worked perfectly. the car was originally narrowband fed.

You need to use a simulated narrow band output but it should work fine. My MTX-L has two channels and one is set up for this. If I were going to use it, though, I would revise it to make the voltage step steeper across stoich from 0.2 to 0.8 volts. A narrow band sensor is more of a switch than a sensor.

thanks for the trick, I'll tell my dyno guy to look up for that.

Another thing, If I remove the narrowband completely and replace it with the wideband, will the car stay in open loop constantly??

No, the ECU decides when to be in closed loop, not the EGO sensor.

After trying to get the car idling, it seems the car dies by itself as I try to apply light throttle up to 3000rpm. I think I will put back the OEM o2 sensor just in case then put the wideband downstream on its respective bung.