Tach issue
I recently installed my AEM. Using the provided startup calibration I started the car unfortunately the tach didn't work. After some reading I found that 95 does not have a tach signal from the coils to the tach. I then tried this: Setup>Advance setup>Tach/Speedo Control>Options> then change the tach output to 2 which activates LS7 the tach output. After I did this the tach worked however when I would blip the throttle the tach would go to zero while the engine gains RPM, once I take my foot off the throttle the tach would read rpm. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.
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Sorry for the thread necromancy but I'm on the edge of buying an AEM and have a late 95' also. Does anyone know the answer to this? If the OP is still around, did you ever figure it out?
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I have a 97 and had to change the number on the Tach output as well. Copied rafa's settings for this that he had on his 96.
Its worked for the last 2 engines I blew up along the way. I'll check and can post up my settings. |
Are you running a 30-1710 or a 30-1720?
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1710 with a 95 I would think.
I've run both (one with an adapter harness) and the settings were the same. |
Yeah, I'm looking at a 1710, I just wondered what you were using. I searched and saw your boomslang conversion thread for the 1710. So, the LS7 output can generate the correct signal then? That's what I was after. According to AEM's pinouts they have both the early car's and the 95.5+ tach pins going to LS7. I'm guessing you just turn on an internal tach driver in the software then?
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Originally Posted by soloracer
(Post 820962)
Yeah, I'm looking at a 1710, I just wondered what you were using. I searched and saw your boomslang conversion thread for the 1710. So, the LS7 output can generate the correct signal then? That's what I was after. According to AEM's pinouts they have both the early car's and the 95.5+ tach pins going to LS7. I'm guessing you just turn on an internal tach driver in the software then?
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Thanks!
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So Emilio from 949 just called me (I left him a vm yesterday) and said he didn't think it would run the tach in the cluster. You have any specifics on how you did it?
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2 Attachment(s)
I guess I'm no help, these are the only options that helped me to get mine working and you already have done that. Its like you have some sort of interference while on the throttle or something.
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No, no. That may do it still. I actually don't have the unit yet, I'm just being preemptive! I just thought it was odd that Emilio said he didn't think it would work and wanted to see your settings, so thank you again.
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Originally Posted by TwoScoopsofHooah
(Post 764816)
I recently installed my AEM. Using the provided startup calibration I started the car unfortunately the tach didn't work. After some reading I found that 95 does not have a tach signal from the coils to the tach. I then tried this: Setup>Advance setup>Tach/Speedo Control>Options> then change the tach output to 2 which activates LS7 the tach output. After I did this the tach worked however when I would blip the throttle the tach would go to zero while the engine gains RPM, once I take my foot off the throttle the tach would read rpm. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by soloracer
(Post 820962)
Yeah, I'm looking at a 1710, I just wondered what you were using. I searched and saw your boomslang conversion thread for the 1710. So, the LS7 output can generate the correct signal then? That's what I was after. According to AEM's pinouts they have both the early car's and the 95.5+ tach pins going to LS7. I'm guessing you just turn on an internal tach driver in the software then?
IIRC we got BikeInDirt's car (same as yours) with a simple transistor hooked to the crank signal wire which grounds the LS7 output per significant crank signal edge which simulates what the stock '90-'95 coil packs are doing. Flyin' Miata were selling a box like that in the past for few bucks too, but it is very easy to DIY if you have to - prolly 5 minutes once you buy the part which should cost cents. Or the better option is: just upgrade to a 12 tooth wheel from TSE, use the NB crank sensor and let the AEM drive the tach (put 3 in the Tacho field). The main benefit is that the 12 tooth wheel has 6 times better resolution than the stock one (12 teeth vs 2) plus it is not cam driven thus you get much better timing control ... |
Originally Posted by j_man
(Post 822663)
IIRC we got BikeInDirt's car (same as yours) with a simple transistor hooked to the crank signal wire which grounds the LS7 output per significant crank signal edge which simulates what the stock '90-'95 coil packs are doing. Flyin' Miata were selling a box like that in the past for few bucks too, but it is very easy to DIY if you have to - prolly 5 minutes once you buy the part which should cost cents. Or the better option is: just upgrade to a 12 tooth wheel from TSE, use the NB crank sensor and let the AEM drive the tach (put 3 in the Tacho field). The main benefit is that the 12 tooth wheel has 6 times better resolution than the stock one (12 teeth vs 2) plus it is not cam driven thus you get much better timing control ... |
Did some reading on the TSE wheel. Looks like the sensor might just bolt right up, huh? Any good, detailed writeups on this anywhere? If I understand I would need:
-TSE wheel -NB crank sensor (How does this get wired in?) -96 + pulley boss Also need to mod my CAS, correct? |
There's a writeup on M.net that J_Man wrote, a quick google search will turn it up. Page 2 of a 3-page thread.
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I found this:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=387335 and this: https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...light=12+tooth No 3 pagers though. Are there any specifics / instructions when I buy the trigger wheel? |
Originally Posted by soloracer
(Post 823650)
Are there any specifics / instructions when I buy the trigger wheel? http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...8&postcount=28 |
Thanks. How do I know if I need the spacer or not? Is there a certain distance the wheel needs to sit from the pulley or something?
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