Yes, you heard that right, if you are looking for framerail mounted adjustable quick release splitter mounts, the NC mounts work on an NA/NB! AND they work with FM/Kraken style turbo kit and IC routing. Pictured here is my car with kraken + 2860rs + modified FM I/C pipes + fab9 stage 2 IC.

I'm talking about these: https://racebredcomponents.com/produ...ckets-nc-miata

Credit due to racebred who I *think* designed these (someone chime in here if I'm wrong and I'll ammend), though to be perfectly honest with you guys I bought the knockoffs (which TBH might be better for an NA/NB due to the slotted adjustments giving a wider adjustment range): https://www.ebay.com/itm/395162951848


Protip: If you look at this auction and don't purchase you'll probably get an offer for $165 in 48 hours or so, which is what happened to me.

And the best part is, you only have to drill 1 hole per side! 100% bolt-in. Caveat being you need to access your framerail to install them, which means off with the bumper and the plastic bumper/support bracket. You can retain stock everything with these though, since everything bolts off to access the frame rails.

The existing frame hole is symmetrical on each side, a little oversized, but it works great.

Pass side:


The mounts come with hardware that is pre welded to tabs. This works great, you can drop it into the existing hole with a magnet, get one bolt on, and then line it up to drill your 2nd hole:





And drilled/mounted:




Repeat with the other side:



Adjustment range is more than adequate for my NA at least, for reference with the GV knockoff lip on my car I measured the desired mount length from framerail to splitter at around 10.5" - 11". The adjustment range with these installed is about 9.25" - 12", which should be plenty enough for any miata setup (of course take your own measurements!!!).



And that's without modification, you could easily modify these to give you more range either direction, though I don't imagine it's needed. The only real downside I see of these is they are steel brackets and are fairly heavy (3-4lbs?) for the whole setup. That and they conceivably might be TOO sturdy and cause frame damage if you really hammer your splitter into something. That said, I actually like that they are a split design where they mount to the frame, in my mind at least that gives them more chance to bend on impact before the frame rail does. You could notch these too if you were really concerned.

My hopes are with these being so beefy, I can get away with hiding my quick release splitter rods behind the bumper. Or if a very small splitter you might not need supports at all.

I hope this is beneficial to someone else. I've been struggling to find a bolt in solution for my car, since every single other option I looked at would interfere with either my AWR swaybar mounts, FM style IC piping, or FMIC itself. As you can see this is literally the only space I had for splitter mounts and they worked PERFECTLY.

 

Always interested in a better mousetrap!

Yes, looks good. I note that in the ebay listing, the photo shows only two of the four bolts installed, that would introduce some 'weakness' to the installation - an issue/concern that I share with you. I will have to have a close look at my cold side IC plumbing before I pull the trigger and if that checks out I think I'll order a set.

 

Good eye, but I'll be running all 4 bolts with plenty of overlap between the plates for my splitter



These things are beefy, I could hang off of them. Hoping I can run a 4" splitter without needing support rods. I'll be sure to update this thread with results.

 

IIRC there was an older thread on here where someone used similar mounts with custom plates to adapt them. I believe they were these Civic mounts, which you can get on AliExpress for ~$70.

Only having to drill a single hole is pretty nice though. Good find.

 

I have a set on the way.

A question: will these affect our ability to remove the FUCA-I long bolt? I have a bushing issue there ATM, and the thought occurred ... ? Did you look at this during your install?

 

That's a great question. I do not think they will interfere with it, they sit pretty far back on the frame rail and i expect it would slide right by.

Few more pics now that I've finished my splitter and have been racing with it. It's plenty strong without splitter rods after re enforcement.

 

Me yelling at myself after talking about building a splitter for ages. Good work

 

OK, that's hilarious. And accurate!

 

UPDATE! On my chassis (2004 NBSE(MSM)) ... Inboard blade mount, conflicts with long bolt. Long bolt clears outboard blade mount.

I can't mount my RHS outboard as it conflicts with the IC pipe. I have already trimmed it 50%, it is close but I don't have the silicone IC plumbing that you have, and I am erring on the safe side and keeping it as far away as practicable. That meand when I have to remove the RHS long bolt, the mount will have to come off, or at least the rear bolt removed, front bolt loosened and the mount rotated - may as well just take it off.

I'll eventually have a writeup on my build thread with more photos, for this and the AWR swaybar mounts..

 

As mentioned on my build thread, I have had to mount these asymmetrically. The RHS upper blade is mounted inboard of the chassis rail, and far too close to the radiator mount for comfort. I am going to have to weld some nuts onto the blade, in order to mount the bottom blade/splitter and adjust its height.

I think I will be using the bottom and 3rd-from-the-bottom bolt holes of the upper blade. Is that consistent with your experience Fire? I can always weld on a third nut higher, and maybe that is the safest course.

Pulling out the upper blade is not a simple job, as you know it requires the front of the car to be dismantled back to the front bulkhead, and I would want to minimise the frequency of that.

 

Today I pulled the front shocks out. I used the long bolt method, and as predicted I couldn't get the bolt out far enough.


This photo shows the head of the bolt contacting the rear of the blade bolted to the chassis rail. This is the rear of the blade shown inverted in the above photo.

This photo shows the blade following careful deployment of an angle grinder. The rear mount of the blade has been cut away, meaming the splitter will only be attached to the car with one bolt, the second nut having beem replaced as otherwise the bolt will just be rattling around in there until I next get to remobe all the front structure and garnish.


I just couldn't bring myself to pull the front of the car apart again, not when some surgery might fix the problem. I had integrated the ducting into the splitter mount, and with all the other ducting and sealing it was just too much.

The moral of this episode I didn't spell out above in the earlier post - install them to the outside of the chassis rail. If like me you can't because the IC-TB piping is in the way, you will have to cut the upper mount as shown below. The blue line is the cut, doesn't really matter where. The blue arrow is where the bolt head is in the above photo - it may need a small relief, but mine came out with just the cut, lets see how it goes back together.

 

originally I got the new nine lives quick release brackets but was going to have to cut more than id like to clear intercoller pipping. so I followed somewhat of what @Fireindc did and thought id post an update. i bent the brackets back straight and drilled two holes in the frame and used the hardware it came with. clears the FM intercoller piping with room. and feels very solid. need to add support to sides as well as the front but overall happy with how it came out

 

I dig it! NIce work!! Should be plenty sturdy.

 

Hard to see in those photos, but will the long bolt be able to be removed - and replaced?

My RHS had to be completely dismantled, the bolt came out OK, easily even, but getting the alignment right for it going back was difficult, and the only way was to dismantle the whole corner to get full access to the bolt.

 

Hey! sorry for late reply didnt see you quoted me. i took some pictures for you. since i have mine mounted to the outide of the frame i believe it should work. as you can see in the photo the bolt should have enough space to get through tho i havent tested it. if you want more pictures or anything let me know

 

Yes, you should be fine.

I have the AWR swaybar mounts, which I think resulted in my splitter mount being further back than yours. I had to remove the splitter mount to get enough freedom to manipulate the long bolt while wriggling the suspension arm - you appear to have a lot more room that I allowed.