Picked this up for $40 with a rad, flywheel, clutch, intake, maf and full stock exhaust. Thanks to @rkim for the hook up! Your new setup looks like it will dominate!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379263521
Miata B6 by Shlammed, on Flickr

If anyone can help me find a used MICROsquirt v3 that would be appreciated! I want to get the new microsquirt since I will be building my engine harness from scratch and the micro seems like the way I want to go about it.

Cheers!

I would have given you all that for the low low price of...... the supercharger off your mini.... lmao

My damn PTO gears are sheared, and its whining like a vaccum cleaner.... lol

Haha. Then what, I would have 2 cars that dont work!

Found a deal on a buddy club seat locally. Already paid, $50, and Im going to grab it tomorrow.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380033379
Buddy Club bucket by Shlammed, on Flickr


I have EV14 550's in the mail for after i get the car up and running on stockers; $40. they arent likely a direct fit, but its not going to be a big deal to get them to fit.

Picked up my seat.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381711062
Buddy Clubbin by Shlammed, on Flickr



injectors are in. They don't fit the stock IM or rail with the orings they have, but I will be making my own manifold anyways.


I have a turbo coming to me (SR t25) and a handful of aftermarket gauges ($40). Pretty pumped this is coming together.

Adding to my turbo collection. I picked up a Nissan CA18det t25 for $30 in great condition...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383672516

Left to right: good ca18 t25, broken 2860rs, gtir t28 likely in need of a rebuild.

I will rebuild the gtir turbo anyways and experiment to see what I like.

The CA turbo seems it will run out of steam around the 200 to 220 hp on full steam but the gtir turbo should be good up to 300hp.

looks like you change directions with this car every week.

whats the plan now?

He plans to add 3 turbos to his current turbo for a quad turbo setup.

I have a 1.6-no need to plan for that.

I bought one turbo for $30 since I know that the 1.6 will feel like its slow as balls.



Plan is still to get it running asap with as little investment as possible.
I need brake rotors, race spec wheels and tires and i need to fab up some shock top hats.

Once its running I will add a few parts to get it boosting. Still planning to keep the cost below $2k.


Invested so far:

Turbo $30
1.6L with all the trimmings $40
econoline 550cc ev14 injectors $40
1.8 brake calipers $90
seat $50
rear spoiler $10


Total Invested $260

Big costs will be the Microsquirt for my system. in the 300's depending where i get it and what kit i get.

Since its turbo on shitty track car I suggest. Project Frankenmiata - The Ultimate Miata Coolant Reroute > MotoIQ - Automotive Tech, Project Cars, Performance & Motorsports

Plan is to run a t2 flanged turbo so I can have a few turbos with a few tunes... so i can quickly swap a turbo around depending on what kind of event I will be doing.

small CA18det turbo for autoX (if I feel like standing in the sun all day for 3 minutes of driving)

GTIR T28 turbo for road race/drag race. the 0.86a/r hotside will really open it up but it will hurt the spool. couple that with that its a moderately large turbo to begin with.

I am in no means trying to make a chump car, or have it be shitty.

I realize that generally cost implies that the build will be low end, but I need the car to look nice, have a clean install, be reliable and all.


I am able to do everything that I need done from raw materials, such as the piping, manifold, exhaust, seat mounts, etc.

The expensive items I cant make myself (microsquirt, clutch, etc) I will try my damndest to get them used for a good price. The one item that I have been trying to find (to no avail) is the microsquirt.

M

But this does seem like a way to never have to worry about over heating without having to buy a $500 radiator.

There is never a need to buy a $500 radiator. You all have talked each other to no end about overheating because of 3 degrees.

I know some of you might not like me saying it but if you just did all of the work on your own without reading forums you would not likely have gigantic radiators that hold gallons on gallons of coolant.

I will be using a stock radiator for the time being. I dont anticipate it will work that great, being that its pretty abused. But there will never be a need for $500 radiators, ever. If im really concerned or if the stocker starts to overheat, I will pick up a NASCAR takeoff rad that has a built in oil cooler for $100.


ps, the rad on his miata is where my legs would be.

It seems to be a serious issue on actual fast track cars. Even my auto-x car gets hotter than I'd like but thats because it drives flatout for 60 seconds and then gets parked, and I have less radiator ducting than stock, because I didnt have time to do it and didnt think it would be that important on an auto-x car. I'd love to run a random huge cheap radiator, but I cant fit it under the hood legally, or really put it somewhere else effectively.

sounds like your car has issues that mine wont have. ;)

I mean, I guess if you're slow there wont be a problem.

If you properly set up your car with some ducting, or placed the intercooler in a proper location you wouldnt have issues with overheating either.

Ducting does make a difference. There is a reason mazda did it, and it wasnt to spend money on things that arent required.

No shit, but even a car with 100% correct ducting with a turbo will over heat with the stock radiator if driven fast, according to people who've done it before. If you're going to be willing to hack up the front of the car to fit some nascar takeoff radiator (its a bit too wide and WAY too tall, and too thick, with the ports in the wrong places), why not hack up some other part of the car so you can get better weight distribution.

Don't mean to interrupt you ladies but just finally caught up in this thread after awhile away from it. Good luck Matt! Hope you get what you need out of that motor.

Thanks Ryan!

Did a little work to the engine today.... mostly just prepping and cleaning it up.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384128540
Cleaning up Miata B6 by Shlammed, on Flickr

Valve cover cleaned and cut, engine is stripped down to the bare long block. I will have cam gears at some point to be able to move my powerband around to whatever suits my gearing and turbo setup.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384128540
Water neck block off by Shlammed, on Flickr


Im doing a DIY reroute, so I blocked off the front coolant passage. This is the stock neck flange cut, filled with a press fit plug and welded shut as such so I still have the oring'd gasket to seal it up. Way cleaner way to do a reroute than the block off with the neck sticking out.



The engines rubber gaskets are all hard as a rock. Does anyone have a link to a full Miata 1.6 gasket kit? Preferably with piston rings.

Started building my custom intake manifold. I have the materials for the flange and the runners with me now.

The flange is drilled, I just need to cut the holes for the runners to taper them smoothly into the head.

I bought 1.5" schedule 40 aluminum pipe for the runner material. The pipe is larger than the intake ports on the 1.6, so I intend to cut the pipe lengthwise and taper the port from the floor of the plenum to the port diameter. this will promote more velocity of the air going into the engine. I just need to dig up the old calculations I made to figure out what runner length I want to cut it to.

I will have pictures of this shortly... I have to hook up the CRX im working on with a giant oil drain and I need to finish a turbo manifold Im Building for an NB with TiAL housing and wastegate.

Granted its not the most accurate representation of the part im trying to show... you will know what I am showing if you look hard enough (or creep my other posts)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1385137835
Miata engine #2. by Shlammed, on Flickr

Shown is my blown 2860 and a manifold I am building for a Miata.... but if you look deeper than that you can see a partially dissassembled BP- for which I have most of the parts to rebuild.

the 1.8 VVT has been acquired for my build!

Deets: it is dissassembled and is missing the pistons and rods. The head has been rebuilt with new oem spec valves, seals and has been decked (minor deck, i dont have the details on the amount its been decked though).

The engine has intake manifold and I still have the 2002 exhaust manifold from my old build. I am thinking that to get this together for the 2014 lapping season I might leave the boost off now that my engine should be able to make more than 90whp to get a season in with the budget within the $2013 that I was hoping to do it with.







As far as progression: I have went to the shop that it is stored at, put it all together suspension wise besides suspension top hats and it is ready to be towed to my new garage. I have all of my parts that I need to build it sitting inside the car now and I just need to find a trailer to get it to me. I still need to bolt the body panels down though so they dont fly off on the highway. Thats not a big deal though.

You posted a couple months late. I had a decent set of OEM pistons/rods that I ended up selling for a lamp project.

It happens.

There are minor vertical scratches in my block, so im going to take it to the machine shop next week to have him give me an idea of if it needs to be bored or if a hone will get rid of it.


I cant feel it with my fingernail so I am optimistic.

I have perfect 2001 rods sitting here..

A freeze plug fits in there fine.

This was a good solution because it uses the stock O-ring'd face, is completely reversable (new neck) and is just as reliable as stock... where a freeze plug may push out being that this isnt a spot designed for that type of plug.

Thanks. I mainly just need the pistons if I am paying to ship things around.

I have my 1.6L's rods and I believe they are the same.

Ordered a Microsquirt EMS from DIY while they had their black friday sale on.

Im trading the VVT head for an NB1 head for simplicity sake. No VVT to worry about needing an MS3x for, less wiring and it should be a much more simple wire job... oh and the micro comes pre-assembled.

Going to run the car N/A (at least) for the start of the year while I worry about other things like the car not exploding or needing something else and to pay for track days.

The BP4 head is in for my project.... ('99 head)

It looks good, but the valve cover is cracked opposite of the cam sensor on the front of the engine.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1387040945
Miata BP. 99 head is in. by Shlammed, on Flickr

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1387040945
Miata BP. 99 head is in. by Shlammed, on Flickr




Microsquirt should be in relatively soon.

Just need to find some pistons to get the engine build rolling. I may have found some on here, but we will see when the time comes.


Going to run the '93 CAS for the time being for both cam and crank sensor. Im not sure if there is any advantage of running the VVT crank sensor with a 12-1 and the '93 CAS just for the cam sensor since I will be running a cut valve cover (cracked VC) but provisions will be there when the time comes.

Dub postin.
:noob:

Cross post.

ECU came in. Just need to build the engine and wire it up... I have 99% of the electronics (coils being what I need).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1387567350
Microsquirt v3 by Shlammed, on Flickr

Surprised at the size and weight of it. the wiring harness is almost as big as the whole ECU! There is a #2 Robertson short bit to show you the size of the ECU itself. pretty cool!

What, no banana for scale?

DIY likes to recommend this unit for other-than-car-usage for the most part. Looks like it'll drive 4 high impedance injectors just fine, though in batch.

Is there any other real obstacle to running this on a car? Seems on the surface to be about as capable as MS2...

I like the idea of treating it as an "MS3-Pro Lite."


Always banana to mouth, never mouth to banana.

I started a thread on here about the Micro vs the mega.

Basically the Micro is a self contained, pre packaged megasquirt minus the oversized heatsync for the injector drivers and it requires an external MAP sensor. besides that it is a MSPNP which is a variant of the megasquirt 2.

There is something else in the thread about some circuitry being the same as the new MS3 pro and that MS3 copied the micro being that it works so well.



For what I need, its going to be best. Pre-built, with flying lead wire harness, small and easy to mount and very basic.

Sure I wont have electronic boost control, launch control, etc etc functions that never really get used but im not worried about that. The micro is keeping costs down and is the same basic system. excited about it actually! more simple is more better for me with this-which is why I decided to get rid of my VVT head even though it may have been able to make a few more HP through the rev range than my NB1 head/NB2 bottom end hybrid.

:skid:

Uses the same tuning software and ignition setup?


This sounds like 100% winsauce to me. :)

Same software... apparently when you open TS for the first time on it you just choose Microsquirt to do the first setup.

ignition is the same too, just need to do pullup mods for cam/crank externally since its not done within the case...(I believe... I don't have my spreadsheet in front of me with my notes on it)

I haven't updated this thread in a bit more than 9 months... but its finally here and getting attention.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409838689

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409838689

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409838689

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409838689

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409838689

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409838689


Build Staging
This is the plan for my staged build, so that focus is given in stages to prevent extra work and to ensure that it is completed in a timely nature.


1. Chassis prep.
basically take it all apart as far as I possibly can. its pretty close now, but there are lots of parts on it still, mostly suspension. remove them all, disassemble, clean, verify things like bushings, bearings, etc, maybe paint and then reassemble.

2. Brake system prep.
Get the brakes in, with new lines and up to a working state. Once the car runs I can experiment with pads and stuff, I have some front HP+ pads that should hold me off for a few days once its together with stock rear pads. All will be upgraded once running.

3. Engine prep.
This will probably kind of happen along step 1 and 2 being that its basically the expensive part of getting this project back together and where I will be building custom parts to make this more or less a shop car.

Custom inlet manifold, that I will be doing some development and tuning on.
Stock header for the 1.8, which I have and is trimmed back to where the collector is 3". Im going to do a little work to it to make a nice long choke point to taper into a 3" aluminum exhaust with the same flange position my exhaust systems will have, so I can toss one of my turbo kits into it later with no exhaust changes. This will be used for engine break in. Full turbo kit will be implemented when I determine what power goals I need to achieve to be competitive once the car is together with full drivetrain for wet weight measurements.


4. Drivetrain prep
Coupled with the engine build, the drivetrain will be getting addressed. Going to try to find a 1.8 rear end swap to use (can be open diff for the time being, just to keep it cheap since I plan to run a nicer diff than a torsen)
Small diameter twin plate clutch -fast shifting will be needed to get this thing going.

5. Wiring
Wire the engine to the microsquirt with the pre-made, labeled engine harness. Having both the Miata and the microsquirt together for the first time, it will be easy enough to build the harness as one piece and forgo the bulkhead connector. the microsquirt plug is 2-2.5" wide by an inch tall, which will be easy to find a hole in the firewall with a grommet for. Then wire in main, essential and accessory wires/relays.

6. Paint
At this time, I will be going over the entire chassis with a fine tooth comb. Determining whats needed, whats not and how to maximize all performance based aspects of the chassis package as well as aesthetics so that all modifications are done before paint.

Once its all together and finished, take it apart and paint the car. This will keep me from drilling holes, filling holes, etc after the paint is done to install engine/brakes/wiring.



7. Tuning

By this point the car should be ready to start. It will be a very bare bones car, but the exciting part comes now.








Immediate plans for the car are to get it down to a very bare shell and continue to remove the factory tar from the underside of the chassis.

From there I will go all Jeffbuc and paint all of the suspension components, poly/delrin the bushings and replace some parts that I noticed needed attention while I was removing them.


Notes from suspension disassembly
-The front driver side lower control arm eccentrics were a bit mangled for some reason. The nut side eccentric washers were stripped of the D shape and probably would have made alignment a problem on that corner. Those will be replaced.

-The front outer tie rods and front balljoints will be replaced with new R package parts... the ultra angle steering knuckles I had on this car before didn't do them any favors.

-The front wheel bearings are fine on it right now, but the rear wheel bearings, upon inspection, didn't like what drifting and low offsets/high spring rates did to them. The rear wheel bearings will be replaced. They would probably be OK, but im not willing to risk it.

Great stuff! Can't wait to see the final product on this thing.

1.8 Engine is in and brainstorming has begun for the large frame T4 twin scroll turbo fitment.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414453640HellaFab Miata by HellaFab, on Flickr

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414453640HellaFab Miata by HellaFab, on Flickr

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414453640HellaFab Miata by HellaFab, on Flickr