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Old 02-14-2009, 08:56 PM   #21
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nice.......i'm a little disappointed cause I was expecting to see a vf39 or something similar from you. but whatever gets the job done I guess.

what are the power goals on this thing?
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Old 02-14-2009, 10:59 PM   #22
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skip the 460s so you don't wish you had bought the 550s later.
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:29 AM   #23
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"This is why we don't recommend using a gasket on the turbo manifold. "


That's FM speaking, from their track dog race car. I hear they know what they're doing.
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:50 AM   #24
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I am really drunk right now, but a small update: I got the car almost finished up today and started it and it runs fine. didnt drive it because its on stock ecu right now, cant wait for adaptronic to come in on thursday. ill post some pictures of my engine bay tomorrow, I am really happy at the way everything came out, and I can honestly say it does not look anything like anyone elses setup
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Old 02-15-2009, 05:37 AM   #25
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Good to hear man. Post those pictures when you get em, I want to see!
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Old 02-15-2009, 06:10 AM   #26
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Still a few things left to do before its COMPLETELY ready to tune/drive, but for the most part its almost ready. I still have yet to put on my forge bov. also need to make a plate/panel between radiator support and radiators to keep the airflow going correctly though them. also need to route all the vacuum lines to boost gauge/map sensor/boost controller/etc. All important stuff but not really hard (I think and hope). Still have yet to hear on what kind of spark plugs are recommended and what to gap them to, so maybe someone could chime in here? Rx7 460's should be in any day now, as soon as they're in its off to Deatschwerks for cleaning/testing. After that they go in and I can hopefully turn up the boost a bit and have the powerband I am aiming for: ~220-240whp. If I can get more out of it great, if not that number is fine by me. Have a act 6puck clutch ready to go in as soon as the stocker dies, so thats not a problem.

Ok, off to bed now: I'm still drunk and if something is misspelled or dont make sense sorry, I'll try to clean up the post tomorrow

Last edited by 18psi; 02-15-2009 at 06:31 AM.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:45 AM   #27
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Dude! Worm clamps are ftl.

Other than that, I love it. Seriously, it looks really clean and functional.
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:36 AM   #28
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Are the IC pipes touching the top rad tank?
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:55 PM   #29
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Yeah you need to clearance those IC pipes more from the radiator end tank. When the motor torques around it looks like they will come in contact with the radiator. If it does it will break that old brittle plastic tank in short order. And get some T-bolts instead or worm clamps too.
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:39 PM   #30
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+1 on T-bolts. And whats your plan for heat shielding? Please don't say turbo blanket. Looks really clean though, beyond the color mismatch of the couplers. Does the hood close?

Pat, I see from your avatar that you're too lazy to get rid of Christmas too.
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Old 02-15-2009, 03:44 PM   #31
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There is about 1/4" clearance between the pipes and the radiator. If it really rubs once I start driving it I will definitely fix it, that wont be too hard to do. Worm clamps are ftl, but I am talking to a buddy that says he has some t-bolts he'll find and give me so hopefully that works out. as far as heat shielding, hell no I wont be using a blanket. I have a bunch of heat shielding lying around from all sorts of turbo cars, as well as a bunch of material, so I will be making heat shields for everything. That is not on my priority list though, as I just want to get the car driving fine right now.

It started up, nothing seems to leak at all, and sounds/looks healthy, so I'm guessing/hoping everything was put on correctly. Well see.
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Old 02-15-2009, 03:48 PM   #32
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It's not gonna rub on that tank. It's gonna smash it. You better fix that now. If nothing else put a big dent in the pipe to clearance it. Or use a bend there that would work better anyways.
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:14 PM   #33
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well we did dent the tubes a little bit before throwing them on. I will take them off to clean the intercooler and piping and paint everything black though, so I'll dent the **** out of them so there is a good half to an inch clearance. or just position them a bit higher (the part over the rad.

hey pat what spark plugs are you using and what did you gap them to?
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:18 PM   #34
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NGK BKR7E spark plugs gapped to 0.020". New stock number 6097.

And don't paint your pipes black in the dark or they'll end up looking as bad as mine.
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:21 PM   #35
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sweet thanx
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:57 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
NGK BKR7E spark plugs gapped to 0.020". New stock number 6097.

And don't paint your pipes black in the dark or they'll end up looking as bad as mine.
My BKR6E's are gapped at the stock .040. I need to close these down to .020"? Still on stock coils.

You will be SOO happy when I get a base map to you. I have a few hours in it already with three of them on the phone with Travis. Still having tip in issues.
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Old 02-15-2009, 05:05 PM   #37
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That is awesome man. Glad to hear I wont be starting from complete scratch. how is the autotune feature?
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Old 02-15-2009, 05:30 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
That is awesome man. Glad to hear I wont be starting from complete scratch. how is the autotune feature?
Haven't got there yet. I have a good smooth idle, but when I touch the trottle, it dies. We are working on it. Travis is calling me back in a couple hours.

After that I'm starting the autotune.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:47 PM   #39
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I use BK7RE's gapped at .030" with stock cols.
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:02 PM   #40
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Nice job man. Hope you can drift better with this setup at the showgirls corner now.
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