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Old 05-17-2009, 03:31 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
yo bra, yr bov ain't gonna work like that.

It needs to see vacuum to pull open the valve, if I'm not mistaken. Needs it's vacuum line hooked up post throttle body. On NA's, there are two nipples on the top of the throttle body, I don't see them on yours.
I just threw the lines on there without thinking. You are right: I need to switch the line going to the MAP sensor with the one going to the bov. The Map line is right after the tb so it should work.

Thanx for the observation
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Old 05-17-2009, 03:35 AM   #62
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Did Deatschwerks measure the lag time for those 460s?
I'll have to check the paperwork/graphs. Is that something I need to be worried about?
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Old 05-17-2009, 05:43 AM   #63
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redid the vacuum lines:

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Old 05-17-2009, 06:25 AM   #64
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you might need some better IC clamps
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Old 05-17-2009, 06:35 AM   #65
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haha yes definitely

I got those with the piping/coupler kit from ebay and they are cheap and crappy. I will keep em in there for as long as they hold, as soon as they blow/break/stop holding desired boost I will change em out.
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:20 PM   #66
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You should be fine as long as you don't race and aren't actually at your screen name's pressure. Beaded pipes also help a lot. If you do upgrade to t-bolt clamps, cxracing has an awesome deal, 12 clamps, $22, and you can pick the individual sizes of all 12 clamps.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=SLHS
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:28 PM   #67
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I'm not sure. When using the link with those injectors it's important to have the correct lag time (offset), so you can get them to idle properly. The adaptronic may not care as much, so you'll probably be fine with out it but it would make fuel corrections more accurate.

I was mainly asking because I have a set and want to know what the lag time is.
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Old 05-17-2009, 03:36 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboRoach View Post
I'm not sure. When using the link with those injectors it's important to have the correct lag time (offset), so you can get them to idle properly. The adaptronic may not care as much, so you'll probably be fine with out it but it would make fuel corrections more accurate.

I was mainly asking because I have a set and want to know what the lag time is.
lol I'll have to check but I cant find the sheet. I'll post up if I do.
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You should be fine as long as you don't race and aren't actually at your screen name's pressure. Beaded pipes also help a lot. If you do upgrade to t-bolt clamps, cxracing has an awesome deal, 12 clamps, $22, and you can pick the individual sizes of all 12 clamps.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=SLHS
That is a great deal. I'll keep that in mind. I really dont think I'll have too many problems with pipes blowing off or slipping: the way my piping sits it is basically in line. The tb/turbo is holding one end and the intercooler is pushing the other. It is INCREDIBLY hard to take out any of the pipes. I mean you have to PULLLLLLLL like crazy making sure to loosen all clamps beforehand. I think I'll be find for at least a while.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:43 AM   #69
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Redid everything correctly and a few updates:



new MAP


new uego



Made the high flow fan work with the stock shouding for max flow







made faceplate for gauges



Got the car started, idling correctly, and driving. In the middle of tuning it. Here's a short clip of it running and what not:



It runs GREAT
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:55 AM   #70
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Damm, i feel like its been forever!

Glad to hear its all working out for ya!
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:58 AM   #71
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Seriously man, I feel like its been 4 ******* years or something

I'm carefully reading the Adaptronic manual (for the 10000th time) and tuning it very slowly. So far everything running good. My next project is to make all the shrouding around the ic pipes/rad and finally buff the sanded headlights. Then its onto bodywork (has a ton of dings) and paint.

Feels good to have it running
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:33 PM   #72
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Finally got off my *** today and made a heat shield for the ic/rad. Its hot as hell and the car is on the verge of overheating when I beat on it during the day, so I made this:







Next I buffed my headlights and installed HID's



I really like how stealthy the look is. You CAN NOT see the intercooler unless you REALLY look into there
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:37 PM   #73
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Congrats on getting it done and running! I know how long not having your car feels.
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:03 AM   #74
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Quote:
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Congrats on getting it done and running! I know how long not having your car feels.
Thanx man
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:04 AM   #75
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Made a little more progress today since I was bored:
1) Finally got a filter for the churbo
2) painted piping black



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Old 08-12-2009, 03:16 AM   #76
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Sweet

Last edited by p51hellfire; 08-23-2009 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:45 PM   #77
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Damn man looks great! Truely impressive DIY build.

The black charge pipes give it an aggressive touch IMHO.
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:55 PM   #78
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Looks good, needs better air filter placement.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:51 PM   #79
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Nice build.
Having your MAP connected to the charge pipe like you have, doesn't that cause some fuel flooding and subsequent fireballs at shifts?
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:52 PM   #80
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Thanx a lot guys, I am so happy to finally be able to take my car out and drive it any time and lose traction at will


Quote:
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Looks good, needs better air filter placement.
I am thinking the same thing. Problem is, there is not many routes I can take: basically a 45* bend is the only thing available at this point. Unless you have any suggestions?
Quote:
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Nice build.
Having your MAP connected to the charge pipe like you have, doesn't that cause some fuel flooding and subsequent fireballs at shifts?
Actually my MAP sensor is connected to the vacuum port on the middle of the intake manifold. The bov and boost gauge are connected to the vacuum port on the back of the manifold. The only vacuum line coming off the charge pipes is the one that goes to the wga.
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