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2jz Miata build thread

Old 11-30-2009, 02:10 PM
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Sean- a lot of the budget v8 guys just shim the subframe to get hood clearance. It looks like you could cut of the cam gear cover, trim the hood bracing/structure and shim the subframe to avoid having any hood work. That'd keep it stealthy.
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Old 11-30-2009, 11:13 PM
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So much misinformation in this thread, first of all... a 2JZ-GE and a W58 both which are what the OP mentioned are being used could total up to a maximum of $1500. GE engines usually cost 400-700 in good running condition, W58 which is the weakest tranny (good for 400-480whp depending on driving) costs about $400-600. A 2JZ-GE is good for up to 700whp, however that transmission won't be able to match it. The tranny you should have considered for this swap should have been a R154. Also as I mentioned in another thread, that engine is SUPER heavy but 800lbs seems to be right for engine/tranny.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by PaKMaN
So much misinformation in this thread, first of all... a 2JZ-GE and a W58 both which are what the OP mentioned are being used could total up to a maximum of $1500. GE engines usually cost 400-700 in good running condition, W58 which is the weakest tranny (good for 400-480whp depending on driving) costs about $400-600. A 2JZ-GE is good for up to 700whp, however that transmission won't be able to match it. The tranny you should have considered for this swap should have been a R154. Also as I mentioned in another thread, that engine is SUPER heavy but 800lbs seems to be right for engine/tranny.
I'm not real worried about the trans right now i mean i got the trans with a new clutch,flywheel, and drive shaft for $400 so when this one decides to blow its brains out I will have Slo_SC3 from supra forums to build me a R154 good for 1000HP but for now this will work.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:22 AM
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So Sean do any of your buddies have another 2jz laying around
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
Sean- a lot of the budget v8 guys just shim the subframe to get hood clearance. It looks like you could cut of the cam gear cover, trim the hood bracing/structure and shim the subframe to avoid having any hood work. That'd keep it stealthy.
Great info as usual Rob.

Many thanks!
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by buffon01
So Sean do any of your buddies have another 2jz laying around
I can keep an eye out but the guy to ask is Slo_SC3 on supra forums he is the one who found mine and he is one of those guys that just seems to fall into them all the time. I will say this next time i am going to use a 1jz or a 1.5jz so i can have some more hood clearance but for now it will just hang out there.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:26 PM
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Reminds me of this one:
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinb
Reminds me of this one:
Someone just posted that earlier in this thread..

This should be a pretty sick little street car. Good stuff fella.

What sort of bracing are you adding to the chassis? Roll Bar should be on your short list, don't want you going and getting yourself squished.

Wheels/tires/Suspension plans?
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinb
Reminds me of this one:
Dose any one have more info on this car all i can find is this picture and nothing else i really want to read more about it.
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chance91
Someone just posted that earlier in this thread..

This should be a pretty sick little street car. Good stuff fella.

What sort of bracing are you adding to the chassis? Roll Bar should be on your short list, don't want you going and getting yourself squished.

Wheels/tires/Suspension plans?
I have a hard dog bar that we have added a harness cross bar. The trans cross member add a good bit but I am in the process of building a butterfly like brace for under that car it will probably come out more like a big X brace and Ill see how that works out if the car dose not feel stiff enough it will get a full cage. I am also running a 1 7/8" piece of tubing between the front frame rails where the radiator is to try and strengthen that area up to. I also have a rear cross member brace too. If anyone has any other ideas to add please let me know.
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean
Dose any one have more info on this car all i can find is this picture and nothing else i really want to read more about it.
Well it's obviously an overseas magazine since it says kilowatt in the top left corner. If you really want to know, I would contact Chiptorque (ChipTorque Performance) and ask them, since it looks like they sponsored this car judging by the huge banner on the windshield.
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean
I have a hard dog bar that we have added a harness cross bar. The trans cross member add a good bit but I am in the process of building a butterfly like brace for under that car it will probably come out more like a big X brace and Ill see how that works out if the car dose not feel stiff enough it will get a full cage. I am also running a 1 7/8" piece of tubing between the front frame rails where the radiator is to try and strengthen that area up to. I also have a rear cross member brace too. If anyone has any other ideas to add please let me know.
Sounds like you've got a level head about the project, good start on bracing. I'd start seam welding the crap out of the car, if you want to get some free stiffening, and a good return on the time put in.

Read this for starters FM seam welding diagrams

Can also read through Targa Miata and pick out the useful chassis bits if you've got time.

As well, you can stitch up the front subframe, and I'd add material to if in a few places to strengthen it if you're looking for rigidity there. As well, welding near the firewall is going to be more effective than around the radiator core support, IMO. There is some important structure up there, but its not the bulk of it.

Lastly, there are stock braces available on the later NB cars with the sport package, the Mazdaspeed, and all cars after I think 2003, that can be retrofitted very easily, which might be a good idea to look into. One such brace is similar to the center section of the butterfly brace. but there are other useful pieces to the setup as well.

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Old 12-02-2009, 02:07 PM
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I am going to try and take some pics of the cross member and where the trans sits tonight and post them so you all can see how close every thing lines up to stock.
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:01 PM
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I'd be interested in reading the article on that yellow miata! Some one track down a pdf of it or somethin
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:39 PM
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IIRC I have seen that yellow car article before. Try Searching here or at m.n for another discussion with a link.
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:02 PM
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I have definitely seen that article before, a long time ago, and stateside.

Thought it was nuts then, still think it's nuts now.
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:52 PM
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The 2jz looks right at home!

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Old 12-02-2009, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean
Dose any one have more info on this car all i can find is this picture and nothing else i really want to read more about it.
It's called a Bullet Roadster - developed as a small custom build car here in Australia on the Gold Coast. They took the rear body tub of the early MX5 and built a custom chassis to hold the engine and drivetrain.

See here:

http://www.bulletcars.com/cars/ss/

Original version (1 or 2 made and still around) ran a boosted 13B - see You Tube.



Later versions run a supercharged Lexus V8, apparently chosen for a combination of size, and smoothness - I've seen footage of an Australian 50c coin balanced on its edge (they have chamfered edges) on a running Lexus V8.

They sound WICKED!!!!!

Last edited by Uncle Arthur; 12-03-2009 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:41 PM
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The 2JZ motor looks so perfect in the engine bay....damn I want...and the big *** Borgwarner turbo ;-)
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Cspence
The 2jz looks right at home!

It dose look good I found this same car on Supra Forums but no one has any information like if it ever ran or anything and it has a 1JZ or 1.5JZ I wish I had this because you can see how much lower it sits in the engine bay.
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