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Alright, at this point I think I have enough things accomplished to make a post worthy of the time to read and I love when people ask me questions/test my knowledge- If I can help out people even a fraction of what this forum has done for me I will be happier for it.
Goal: Listen to the words of the wise for a durable budget Miata and enjoy the damn thing. A LOT.
Background: ( TLDR? Maintnence, Tockio 2.5 FM, Brain MS3x, Heavy NB SE wheels )
My 2 friends and I loved cars back in middle school which lead us to the fast and furious -> video games -> the beginning of car enthusiasm. Freshman year in Highschool rolls around so we start trying to figure out what our first cars will be by looking at what is popular in the automotive world recently. I OTOH didn't really pay much attention or think about my first car due to other priorities at the time, however eventually one of them mentioned a Miata and I took the time to listen. I learned that they are slow, cheap, RWD, like modifactions, like boost, and are the most raced car in history. Sounded good to me and I remembered a Black Na that had been sitting in the same parking spot at a used dealership for at least 2 years. I then took every opportunity to research about it that I could (Introduce MT.net) and inspect the miata in the lot. Once I learned that it was a 94 and effectively the PERFECT foundation to start with that I could ask for, I doubled down and made it known that I wanted it bad. After a few financial blessings and a family tradition, I acquired the 190k Na Mazda Miata A package in (Not so) Brilliant Black that a few days later pissed coolant all over the driveway overnight from a bad water pump... And we had begun. With absolutely no experience except an oil change, a ragged old driveway, a 25 piece Stanley ratchet set, and 95% confidence of a dedicated 16 year-old kid I bought an full Amazon timing belt kit, WP, Radiator, Ect. and went to town for an entire week of my summer. After putting everything together, filling fluids and taking about a week to heal the second degree sunburns covering my entire non-sunscreen-applying-dumbass, I started it. No leaks, no problems, nothing. So without a license or more than 5hrs teaching myself manual on on the miata, I ran it in the neighborhood and beat on it slightly. At the end of the day, all was well. Eventually I got my license and experience which lead to car meets.
To get away from all of the negative attention and headaches that the riceland suspension caused bottomed-out, I raised it up to near 5" in the old driveway which made everything better and more enjoyable. Then something near a year ago likely I installed an MTXL which I drove to NY for to save a few dollars. ( The 5+ hour drive, gas, food, tolls, ect. ended up making the price = brand new. ). I drove this with stock ecu and the WB guage in the left tombstone air vent. Somewhere along the way I also bough 18lb NBSE Wheels which are in the photo above. The 205/45/16 tires that were on those wheels however had and amazing amount of grip from my perspective. ( I am aware that 205 summer tires and wheels that made the car feel like a boat ain't **** on what MT.net standards are. I was/am young/dumb and bought them cause they were different and 250$. The first night they were installed I also killed a tire and midly bent one of the wheels so Here we are. )
The next thing that happened was the first smart thing that happened. I drove somewhere near by ( that I don't remember ) that had enough elevation to change things from rain to snow and bought a full FM Toc-(However it was spelled) 2.5 kit from a man who did spec miata racing at NJMP Thunderbolt. I think we calculated less than 2k miles was on the kit when he sold it to me because a Crown Vic T-Boned him mid corner. I think the time frame now is winter of 2016, which is when I and a friend installed the FM Sways in snowing weather, inside of his cold detached garage fighting 20+ year old rust belt suspension components and frostbite for 5 hours. This was such an amazing diffrence, at 130$ it is just great. I cannot truthfully express how pleased I was. Other sway bars likely have a similar affect but FM is what fell into my lap. On a warmer but still cold day we installed the rest of the setup which was nicer overall but not necessarily as stark of an impact as the sway bars. At that point there was also roughly 198ish on the odo I think. Car meets and a few Autox brings us through the winter of 2017 for the most part and into what feels like a new phase for Ember Including a name, we are finished all of the maintenance and issues/problems which moves us into modification phase.
Starting off on the correct foot, I contacted Brain with desire to buy a full-tilt M3X with knock sensor but after a bit of discussion we settled on just a MS3X. All was well until the car wouldn't start. I played with ignition settings, killed a coilpack, talked extensively with Brain, realized 2 or 3 wires were in the wrong spot, and started it on 2 cylinders. I thought I had killed the cat so I disconnected that breaking both studs leaving me open header. A week later and a new coilpack got us on 4 cylinders still open header. Did noob street tuning and the car ran well. Backing up to the wires being wrong, I have nothing against Brain for messing that up and truthfully it is good that I got that little bit of experience moving them since I will feel more comfortable modifying the harness later if I need too. So all is well. Now, I drove open header for 2 or 3 months and just recently drilled the studs out and bolted things together. I can hear the damn radio and my self, thank god cause that was bad. Watching the EGO, connecting the exhaust hasn't really modified the fueling all to much but I am waiting for a good day so I can Autotune and be truly sure that everything is correct and durable. The MS install is really not acceptable to my standards so I will fix/redo things when I have warm weather and an open garage to work with again. If I am reminded/remember to take pic of all of the hack wiring on my car things will be interesting, my friends civic is worse and if I add pics of that my car might seem a bit better.
A fun story! I assume you know about thr NJ Miatas group if you are anywhere near NJ?
You want to talk bad wiring though, my friend bought a turbo 91 for $1500 a while ago that was running on a voodoo and msd box... PO installed them using the twist and tape method... That harness was such a mess...
I am going to put this here for possible future reference or for anyone who may be interested. https://www.efi101.com/efi-101/
This next one has 6 free videos in the first course/step 1, they are really nice IMO. https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/ef.../#core-courses
Video by Jeff evans, one very respected tuner across the country- and another relatively well known tuner that mainly messes with GM LS things, Matt from Sloppy Mechanics. Wherein they talk about trolling a class and it may not be worth the money.
My next priorities: (Tons of other things planned but unlikely) PUT IN THIS VVT HEAD AND USE THE BOLT PART NUMBERShttps://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...gaskets-71475/
And figure out how I am going to attach an EGR delete plate without welding since I had to drill out the right side bolt...
- Probably a flat sheet of 3/8ths mushroom shape plywood for the DIY splash guard/tray.
// I know that a splitter will create enough DF to require a rear aero, just this mushroom shape
- Also my coolant temps take forever to come off of 185 and only in traffic/autox/idle otherwise they stay steady. When they do come up higher than that though they take forever to drop. So DIY Plywood mushroom undertray or 180$ NA Miata Aluminum Aero Undertray
// I think mushroom would be alright for this season likely since so far things are alright. I was monitoring things like a hawk at autox and drag night. WHICH I LOST THE THREE SLOW SLIPS TOO ARG
- Continue my never end merry go round of thoughts to have positive MAP readings.
// I know MKTurbo is the best way to go at this point but my patience is waning over time while my savings grows too slowly. Sometimes I am tempted with Kraken manifold, ebay turbo, and stock exhaust. A stock 350Z is plenty fast for me from what I remember. If I beat one at a drag strip I will be happy with whatever hardware causes that result RELIABLY.
- Wash the car for the first time since November I think... Shows how much I care.
-Fix my undersized vacuum line - brass hose adapter - clear tough plastic tubing line -> MS3 Map sensor shenanigans.
// Can someone tell me what size line I need? I couldn't find anything that was right.
- Think about fixing clutch switch always being activated in MS
//Using speed as my main parameter works good but eventually I will want to play with boost by gear and satisfy my little OCD.
-Rebuild the driver side door, sounds like wires are fraying/getting cut when I crank the window.
// Also, I hate messing with the doors my small hands and fingers get all torn up. Can't imagine how it must be for some of you. Do we have some one that rebuilds doors and sells/ships them?
Last edited by RangerJ; 04-20-2018 at 12:30 AM.
Reason: Forgot things as usual.
A fun story! I assume you know about thr NJ Miatas group if you are anywhere near NJ?
You want to talk bad wiring though, my friend bought a turbo 91 for $1500 a while ago that was running on a voodoo and msd box... PO installed them using the twist and tape method... That harness was such a mess...
I do now about the group and have done some business and made a few friends. Hopefully I will make a meet/event this season.
Originally Posted by sixshooter
Welcome to The Forum. It's a fun story and a good introduction to your project.
Thank you Sixshooter, it's nice to have you in here.
VVT head that still needs to be installed/swapped onto my 94. Stock 94 Miata with Ms3 on Virtual Dyno. Went to a dyno day a year before totally stock and only made 90 apparently. Probably not even worth the time to took to take this photo.
So I splurged a bit and as soon as I was convinced I would treat myself a setup popped up on facebook. Apprently (If I am not mistaken) the first Mkturbo setup to ever be resold on this forum was sold to a gentleman in New Jersy. He then resold it to me just recently. SO I now own:
Mkturbo + manifold + Downpipe + Oil lines
For only 300$!!!!!!
That is a steal IMO. VVT = Used Mkturbo
I know the flash was completely unnecessary, O well. I had no intention of owning a turbo this year, but here we are. I already have an oil pan fitting as well so the turbo setup is ready to bolt on to my current configuration in the car but this vvt head isn't since I DON"T HAVE THE UPPER OIL BANJO BOLT. So my plan is to put on this turbo since I don't have the patients to wait and bolt the entire thing on at once. Plus I will have less things that I messed with/failure points to worry about so it will be better for my peace of mind and time constraints. In addition I also just ordered id1000's from a member on here last night.
Oh, ha. I helped install that kit (and I mean that exact one) on the car it was on before. Small world. Solid kit. May want to look into a different turbo at some point. That one is a bit lazy on the boost threashold and spool front. Otherwise it worked like a top and is one of the early MKturbo kits. It was on.... Started with a C, calipto's car? Sonething like that let me dig up the prevous owners build thread for you.
Alright, naturally I have reached a point of more questions. First and foremost.
Notice in pictures above, where my IAT sensor is located, also intercooler should be installed tomorrow. And drag slips.
But what on this earth is causing this? Ignition noise since the wires run along the firewall? Pure vibration? I cannot fathom. Also point out anything else that looks off. IAT sensor trying to kill my engine.
If I'm not mistaken the GM iat is a thermistor which has a top end range of ~135C. Depending on the offset and calibration on the sensor you could be "ranging--out" the analog input channel but then I'd be a little worried that the saturation behavior is so dynamic O.o. It is definitely suspecious, in my opinion, that the IAT drop is happening at max boost (and thus max IAT).
Could also definitely be a loose wire or connection somewhere but I'm not sure I'd expect such a smooth transition/ramp-down to the faulty reading from nominal operation if that were the case.
If I'm not mistaken the GM iat is a thermistor which has a top end range of ~135C. Depending on the offset and calibration on the sensor you could be "ranging--out" the analog input channel but then I'd be a little worried that the saturation behavior is so dynamic O.o. It is definitely suspecious, in my opinion, that the IAT drop is happening at max boost (and thus max IAT).
Could also definitely be a loose wire or connection somewhere but I'm not sure I'd expect such a smooth transition/ramp-down to the faulty reading from nominal operation if that were the case.
TL;DR: put that intercooler on and send it.
So the intercooler is now installed and you seem to have been correct about the GM IAT since that is now working very well as you can see in this datalog. However, everyone can see that the performance of this setup has dropped like a brick. Last night the car made practically no boost/power and we couldn't figure out why. After playing around we can make boost so it isn't an intake leak/fault, and I turned the wastegate 180* tighter which made zero difference. ( Possibly even worse? ) So my only thought currently is that when we cut and filed the intake pipes that we didnt clean them well enough and killed the exhaust turbine. So far I haven't noticed any smoking or other symptoms of any issues, just no spool/boost. Also the compressor surge was louder/easier to entice last night than today it seems. However compressor shaft play seemed similar to previously and I don't hear contact. So I am kinda lost. I have attached a datalog from last night and one from before the intercooler the day before.
This is the turbo that Lars recommended me (replacement) which I appreciate so much since I didnt even actually buy the kit from him. I plan to take a look at the exhaust and try to determine exactly what is wrong with the current setup. I will buy the turbo regardless if I need to replace this one or not, than I have a spare.
Thank you Lars!!
Here is my 2nd and 3rd pass with any boost, a datalog and tune to follow. I have done less than 20 passes in my life and we are on ( I think ) 500 tread wear all seasons that somehow dont spin. Also the clutch is holding like 98% of the time. But my goal was to be faster than a 350z and I have achieved it.
Miata starting making a lower end noise two nights ago and then I blew it up at 9am. Wouldnt go into any gears at all and then finally I went through the intersection slipping third. I had to go up to 60 for traffic and when I pressed the clutch in the motor dissolved with a song of tinkling along the highway. End of the day I sit with a valve cover to oil pan mazdaspeed motor, a block that made 200+ compression on all cylinders and the vvt head that is still missing the big banjo bolt. Current plan might be super miata clutch, good block, vvt head, and take everything off of the old engine to put onto vvt combo. Should update when finished- this thread needs some love I believe. Until now things have been peachy and enjoyable.
Three years nearly to the day- I am choosing to update this thread and eventually call an end to it. In the future, I may end up with a K swap small turbo Na/b but for now I will be pursuing other platforms and more learning experiences. This website, community and platform has given me lessons I will use for the rest of my life. Thank you too all who have posted (Including people who don't post datalogs) for teaching a kid so much.
The lower end noise was likely created by the sound of the third rod hitting the block. I knew the moment I had hurt the motor. The thermostat was replaced when I had bought the car over 2 years prior and was starting to fail since I could see the coolant temp dropping to about 165* in datalogs. I don't believe this is normally a catastrophic failure however I had setup a CLT rpm limiter so that I could prevent myself from driving the hell out of it cold, even though my discipline about it was pretty good. In the middle of a third gear pull, at 6.5k rpm and 15psi, the CLT limiter was hit, made a VW 2 Step loud bang and immediately drove differently. Here is where I will pause for photos.
Stock and first motor pull success photo The reason for the season. Volume One
From here, long story short I used the common recipe for the NB1 head for the na8. (Requires a 1.6 FPR upside down, NB2 manifold and an NB Fuel Rail IIRC) My big trip when I got the entire motor together was I didn't follow torque spec on the PP to flywheel bolts which lead me to pulling and installing the motor (truthfully) 18 times due to not being able to shift while running until I followed spec and was running. Finished second motor install. NB1 Head combo.
So I had this running for less than a month before it was blown again.I had noticed the idle was oddly inconsistent- It would idle great, than a few hours later it would idle low, stop at a light that night and idled at1200- I was confused. My best guess was the throttle butterfly stop was vibrating and moving depending on driving conditions so I removed the stupid little set screw. The next day I believe (Or in the next few) I had noticed that oil smoke was coming out of the spark plug boot vents which was nearly the most confusing thing I had ever seen on a car that was running and making full power perfectly fine.So after pulling the plugs, realizing the CAS bolt was loose...... We get this photo. Less then a month of the second motor.
Now I wouldn't believe me either, but this cylinder head did not have the slighest scratch on it I could find. No photo proof though.
So we are in the position of having: A good VVT head - Oil Feed, A good NB1 head combo, No block. This would've been a great spot to build a block, get a clutch, FP, flex fuel and add a knock system to the MS3 but that wasn't the path we chose due to many factors. But, we need a block which proved harder to find than it was to find another....
04-07-2018, 11:30 PM
Ranger tends to Ember
And we had begun. With absolutely no experience except an oil change, a ragged old driveway, a 25 piece Stanley ratchet set, and 95% confidence of a dedicated 16 year-old kid I bought an full Amazon timing belt kit, WP, Radiator, Ect. and went to town for an entire week of my summer. After putting everything together, filling fluids and taking about a week to heal the second degree sunburns covering my entire non-sunscreen-applying-dumbass, I started it. No leaks, no problems, nothing. So without a license or more than 5hrs teaching myself manual on on the miata, I ran it in the neighborhood and beat on it slightly. At the end of the day, all was well. Eventually I got my license and experience which lead to car meets.
). I drove this with stock ecu and the WB guage in the left tombstone air vent. Somewhere along the way I also bough 18lb NBSE Wheels which are in the photo above. The 205/45/16 tires that were on those wheels however had and amazing amount of grip from my perspective. ( I am aware that 205 summer tires and wheels that made the car feel like a boat ain't **** on what MT.net standards are. I was/am young/dumb and bought them cause they were different and 250$. The first night they were installed I also killed a tire and midly bent one of the wheels so 
Here we are. )
Including a name, we are finished all of the maintenance and issues/problems which moves us into modification phase.
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