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<p>yea i dont get it. you shouldnt have any issues with either wire. the only time ive had the wire burn back to the tip is when the wire feed was too slow, or the mechanism wasnt feeding wire smoothly for whatever reason.</p>
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Well, it's going to be a few weeks before I can mess with it because I'm traveling, but I'll try to make a quick video showing my problem when I get back.
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Been busy preparing for travel but I snuck in a short drive the other night after messing with my CLT-based rev limits. As soon as I pulled out of the driveway the car started stumbling all over itself and my tach kept dying. It took me longer than it probably should have to realize that I fucked up the CLT table with F units instead of C and the car was cutting spark and fuel pretty hard :facepalm:
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Progress!
Got the motor and tranny out of my car in three hours. Not bad for my first time and I didn't even break anything. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440357144 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440357144 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440357144 I'm really glad I got the 2-ton engine crane from Harbor Fright, rather than the 1-ton. Using a load leveler and the crane on it's longest arm setting made extraction pretty drama free. If I were to do it again I'd remove the hard vacuum line at the top of the firewall as well as the ignition coils; that would've cut down on the amount of maneuvering I had to do. In other news I found a mysterious lawn lobster. Had it been a table scrap, I'd expect the little legs to be removed. It is a mystery. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440357144 |
The little shit was trying to evolve.
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Nice try on his part, I'm 30 miles from the ocean.
My pilot bearing is being a bitch. I spent 90 minutes last night trying to separate the motor and transmission. All the bolts are out and I've got a 1 inch gap between the two. Lots of tugging and prying and jiggling at all different angles but still no luck. I gave up in frustration before I broke anything. |
Originally Posted by adamiata
(Post 1259652)
In other news I found a mysterious lawn lobster. Had it been a table scrap, I'd expect the little legs to be removed. It is a mystery. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440357144 |
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The lobster has disappeared as mysteriously as it arrived. I think my dog brought in the woods. Or the house.
I finally managed to separate my transmission tonight. I'm not really familiar with reading flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces, but this looks odd. The car has always been naturally aspirated and it's seen some aggressive launches, but no unusual slipping. The disc was replaced around 60k, 124k on the car now. The flywheel was left untouched, no resurfacing. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440462671 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440462671 |
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Since our last episode...
I cleaned the transmission and replaced the input and tailshaft seals: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441675500 Drilled and tapped the oil pan: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441675500 Painted the water pump outlet and turbo manifold, mounted the turbo, and rigged up oil feed and drain lines using deezum's part list (though I'm still waiting on the block fitting):https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...3/#post1260940: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441675500 Installed an FM2 happy meal, DIY coolant reroute with self-lathed thermostat spacer and painted the intake manifold: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441675500 Deleted the front water neck and the associated stupid little coolant lines (including the one that goes from the manifold to the throttle body, which once slipped a nipple out of the throttle body, thus pissing coolant all over the place and leaving me stranded :vash:): https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441675500 Mounted my Fab9 intercooler: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441675500 And test fit my Supermiata crossflow radiator: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441675500 Remaining tasks before I can drive the car again: - Reinstall coil pack - Reinstall fuel rail and injectors - Flush motor with cheap oil (it still smells funny from the mineral spirits I used to flush the chips out of the oil pan) - Install tranmission - Re-install drivetrain into car - Fab downpipe (still need to solve that welder issue, but I'll focus on that soon enough) - Complete piping from turbo to throttle body. Most of this will be FM silicone hoses with some adaptation to the eBay turbo and manifold |
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I was going to go for a long run yesterday, but instead I spent all my free time on the car.
I got the motor and transmission back in place: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442233248 Drilled and tapped my Fab9 intercooler for my IAt sensor: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442233248 Found that my GM truck hose doesn't come anywhere near my radiator. Maybe I have it on backwards? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442233248 Found that my FM coldside pipe interferes with my sway bar: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442233248 I'm going to need a smaller air filter, it seems this one will intefere with the hood: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442233248 And an updated short-term task list: - Connect heater hoses - Procure and install flexible lower radiator hose - Unfuck upper radiator hose - Fill and burp radiator - Connect fuel lines, various engine sensors - Install coolant temp gauge - Resolve intercooler piping - Hook up BOV - Connect WGA signal to cold side - Fill oil and transmission fluid - Check all fasteners - Extend IAT wiring - Fab downpipe |
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Got my coolant reroute sorted out, still need to tie the hose down so it can't touch the throttle:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442494239 Installed a 1.25 x 20" universal flex hose for the lower radiator connection. Fits pretty well. Also fire sleeved my oil drain. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442494239 Fire sleeved my heater hoses and started playing with downpipe design. It looks like that heater hose is going to be a problem. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442494239 |
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Yeah, the stock heater hose placement leaves a lot to be desired, especially when you're trying to cram a downpipe into the same space. I did something a bit more "unique".
I brazed (as in, I took it to a shop and had it done for me) -8AN fittings onto the heater pipes and the water pump. Then I used braided lines between the water pump and the heater core, and between the heater core and the back of the head. Nothing atypical there. What's "weird" is that the line going to the back of the head is looped up and around (instead of down near the downpipe). That gets that line away from most of the "hotness". The other line going to the water pump is routed similar to how the hardline was, and that's about as good as it gets. One pic is worth a thousand words; https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442498817 |
Just bend that hard line a bit more rearward to get clearance.
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Yeah, looks like that's what FM puts in the instructions for their kits. Hopefully it's enough. I'd rather avoid drastically rerouting the heater line if I don't have to.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442504067 |
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Since we last left our hero...
Red wrinkle-coat painted my valve cover and worked out my vacuum line routing: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 The FM silicone throttle body pipe has a convenient 3/8 NPT bung on the back that I installed a barbed elbow fitting into. This is where I'll source my wastegate boost reference. The pipe also fits right up to my IAC valve. Very much worth the money. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 I made a rough template for my new air filter. Looks like it should fit: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 It looks like if I clock the compressor a little bit more, I can connect to my FM coldside pipe with a long aluminum pipe. I'm kinda disappointed in this part. The fit around the swaybar and radiator is poor and I'm afraid I'll kink it too much if I wrestle it too much. Granted, I'm not using an FM intercooler, but I can't see how another would really fit any better. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 Bent my heater line out of the way of the downpipe. Now I'm up against the shelf. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 The way I see it, I have two options; buy a tighter radius bend or cut the current elbow further and risk not being able to get the V-band flange on. Am I missing something here? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 And in between all that I did some trail running in the Adirondacks. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442887009 |
buy tighter elbow, no need to cheat radii
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Yeah, probably the right way to do it. My current bend is 4.5" radius on center. I ordered a 2.5"R that should do the trick.
Been having a hard time working on the car because I tripped on a root while running Sunday and landed hard. I may have partially separated my shoulder. |
Im pretty sure i used a 2.5" radius center to center with 2.5" pipe, see build for results
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I completed my coldside turbo plumbing. It wasn't quite plug and play with the FM charge pipes, but a length of 2" pipe got me there:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444869536 An AEM Dryflow 21-2127DK just barely fits, with a little tilt to clear the hood. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444869536 And a 2.5 inch radius bend clears the shelf for my downpipe: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444869536 Here's the downpipe. My welds are improving, though I won't be challenging Abe any time soon: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444869536 And I've accumulated all the parts I need to fab my exhaust. Soon. Very soon. |
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Oh carp! Double post.
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An acquaintance of mine was recently killed when he hit a moose on the highway at night. I was never very impressed by my Hella driving lights and, given the amount of night driving I do in swamp-donkeyland, I thought I'd try out a new LED light bar on my Forester.
I went with a 20" 120W spot/flood combo for less than $40 off Amazon. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444911566 Here's my low beams, high beams, and the LED bar. Nice distance and good coverage of the roadside to help spot critters. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444911566 I'm going to have to be pretty responsible about watching for oncoming traffic, but most of my driving is super early in the morning and I have the road to myself 99% of the time. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444911566 Just from reading online descriptions, I can't really tell the difference between something like this and a $200 light bar. The cheap ones have a reputation for getting water inside the lenses, but that's easily remedied with some silicone. If this one craps out for some reason, well, I can buy a lot of replacements for $200. |
Four of my friends have these light bars, theybwork well, we will see how they hold up in winter though!
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On Saturday I got a bunch of work done. I completed fabbing my exhaust and downpipe, which was the last major item before starting the car up. I mostly picked my bends and routing from what I've seen others on the forum do. It's 3 inches with a Magnaflow a little smaller than everyone else uses.
Attachment 235477 Attachment 235478 I was all excited to start it up, take a spin, hear how the new exhaust sounds, and start tuning for boost... but the car starts hard and runs poorly. Here's the current condition: - No start with old tune that worked well on the stock intake tract and exhaust. - Car starts and runs briefly on ether. - Confirmed ~190 psi compression in all four cylinders. - If I double Req-Fuel, I can start and idle the engine, but I hear an occasional misfire. - Idle is high (1400-1600 RPM), AFR reads about stoich, vacuum is a bit lower at idle than before. - Can rev engine slowly, but more abrupt throttle inputs cause it to stumble and stall. - Adding more fuel does not seem to improve the condition. - Removing any of the spark plug wires causes engine to run notably rougher, so I'm reasonably sure I have spark in all 4. - I replaced my intake manifold gasket and removed the coolant operated idle valve on the manifold while the engine was out. - I've check and cleaned all my grounds and checked that all electrical connectors were secure - no improvement. - I replaced the CAS O-ring and carefully re-aligned it using scratch marks during re-installation. At this point I suspect I have a vacuum leak, bad fuel pressure, bad injector, bad coil pack, or bad plug wire. Any suggestions? Bonus cat pic: Attachment 235479 |
An engine runs like crap if you hook up the fuel lines backward. Herp derp derp. I should have paid more attention when I was unhooking things to pull the motor.
It starts and runs now, but runs pig rich on the same decent tune I was running before I installed the turbo and associated plumbing. Autotune is having a hard time because I have a noisy and offset O2 signal. Rather can keep dicking around with grounding locations I just ordered a CAN wideband module from Trackspeed. Meanwhile, I discovered a fuel leak at the pressure regulator, so there's yet another issue to resolve before I can get on the road. All I really want is to drive it just once before I have to put things away from the winter and it's getting cold already. |
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I solved my fuel leaks, a couple pinched o-rings at the an injector and the FPR were responsible.
Car runs and drives now with a few issues: - Small misfire, most notable at idle. Car stumbles with abrupt throttle inputs when in neutral. - Engine hits a wall at 6,000 RPM every time. Almost feels like a rev limiter but mine is set to 7200 RPM. Spark blowout? - Regapped new NGK plugs from 0.040" to 0.028". No improvement. - MTX-L runs normally for perhaps 15 minutes, then bounces around between full rich, full lean, and a credible O2 reading, then gives error E8 until I restart the car. This is despite a new sensor and new bung location just before my flex pipe wayyyyy down in the transmission tunnel. :vash: - I'm hearing possible engine knock, starting at very low throttle inputs and engine loads while still in vaccuum around 10 in-hg and onward into positive manifold pressure. The "knocks" do get more frequent, but not linearly with RPM so I'm not 100% convinced it's not just something rattling. IAT readings are never over 75F and AFR is 11.5-12.5 in boost. Spark map is unchanged from the DIY base map. - There's a lot more turbo noise than I expected. I get chuff-chuff-chuff sound when I let off the throttle even slightly. Running my Turbosmart BOV full soft does not change this. I thought compressor surge would only happen at more aggressive throttle closing with high RPM. Any suggestions? I have a CAN wideband module on the way, which should give me more confidence in my AFR readings and VEAL tune. I also have all the parts to build a Toyota COPS setup, so I may see if that solves the misfiring issues. Maybe my coilpack is dying. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445854290 |
A couple other notes while I think of it.
I'm using an 18"x5"x8" Magnaflow 12249, significantly smaller than the big Magnaflow that's popular around here. I don't find the sound to be any louder than the Borla cat-back I had when I was naturally aspirated. It's not something I'd want to listen to for a multi-hour highway roadtrip, but for a weekend/autocross toy, I'm pretty happy with the sound and it shouldn't attract any unwanted attention. I've been impressed with my Flyin' Miata stage 2 Happy Meal clutch kit. Despite the heavier pressure plate, pedal feel and engagement is indistinguishable from OEM. I'll withhold judgement on the flywheel until my spark and fueling issues are sorted out, but it doesn't seem to rev or spin-down noticeably faster. |
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Last night I pulled out my DIYPNP for surgery and did a bunch of stuff at once while it was apart.
Installed my sequential kit and jumper for EBC: Attachment 235474 Wired in CANH and CANL. Also jumpered GND and +12V to my DB15 (not shown): Attachment 235475 Wideband CAN module wired in and the beginnings of my harness for EBC, and sequential outputs. A weatherpack connector will be added between the CAN module and the MS later, once my crimper tool arrives. Attachment 235476 A set of Flow Force 610cc EV14 injectors arrived from Trackspeed with the CAN module, as well. My plan over the next couple evenings is to install and activate one thing at time in an attempt to solve my drive-ability issues. I hypothesize that I either have a bad coil or a bad injector in there now, so doing things in this order should tell me what was going on. First will be the wideband module, then the injectors, then COPS (still need to complete the harness), then feed in my sequential injections wires into the plug-and-play harness on the FF injectors so I don't need to cut my OEM wiring harness. Then long awaited party time. :party: |
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I'm having a rough time following Reverent's instructions for setting up my CAN wideband module in Tunerstudio. Specifically, steps 6 through 12 don't have the same selectable options in Tuner Studio as in the instructions call for.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446083654 When it tells me to Set “Fetch Innovate EGO Data” to “Enable” in step 6, I don't see anything like quite like that on my CAN/BUS Test Modes screen. I've tried enabling some of the choices that are entering the given port, table, and offset settings, but that hasn't gotten me anywhere. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446083654 Similarly, under EGO control I can't find an option to set EGO1 Port to CAN EGO. Any suggestions? I'm stumped. |
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The CAN module is still giving me a hard time, I get a failure to communicate with CAN1 error:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446602393 In the mean time I got my Flow Force injectors up and running in sequential mode as well as my Toyota COPS. I still need to add a resistor to the COPS to get my dash tachometer back and tidy up the wiring. Attachment 235473 |
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car's up on stands for the winter and I haven't done any work in a while because it's been cold. Registration time came around and got some new plates, though.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454081574 |
Nice! I keep waffling about getting historic plates or not for mine.
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Still too cold to do much work in the garage, but now I've got some design work to do in the interim. I'll be making some brackets for the Elise seats I just picked for silly cheap.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456855472 Test fit: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456855472 |
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I'm still having driveability issues, and I suspect my timing belt is off by a tooth, though my timing mark is difficult to see. Need to spend some time troubleshooting that, but in the mean time I got some other stuff done.
I built an airbox. It still needs some straightening and improved mounting points. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463142950 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463142950 Attachment 235472 Also started on some radiator shrouding. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463142950 And I got some peeps. They don't taste like sugary marshmallows at all. Maybe they're the wrong kind? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463142950 |
Can you give me the part number for that air filter? I need to mount mine exactly the same so I can get a box built.
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1331486)
Can you give me the part number for that air filter? I need to mount mine exactly the same so I can get a box built.
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Bought it too.
Good to see it fits even though tight. The 90 degree that FM sells is perfect as its 2.5">2.75" |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1331486)
Can you give me the part number for that air filter? I need to mount mine exactly the same so I can get a box built.
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I think I just used a cheap one from silicone intakes.com Had to trim the lengthy on the compressor side a bit to make it fit.
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HOLY SHIT! My timing belt was wayyy off. I fixed it and the car was idling a million times better, so I took a quick cruise down the road and scared the crap out myself with the power. Apparently this is what a turbo Miata is supposed to feel like. Pulls way harder than my FXT, even on just wastegate pressure. No more misfire, no more knock. I spent a lot of time and money throwing parts at the wrong problems. I'll need to retune, but my MTX-L decided this would be a good time to crap out (again). Can't wait to drive it again tomorrow.
I'm surprised it even ran like this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463449405 |
So, just to recap, here's a list of problems I was experiencing that can probably be blamed on the timing belt situation:
Lesson learned. :idea: |
I don't think I've ever seen any engine run with the timing that far off. BP powa!!!
Always start with the basics. Low hanging fruit first. Glad you got it fixed. |
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I have COPS, so no more igniter. That, and the major misfire/breakup issues seem to have been solved by unfucking the cam timing.
I'm a little east of Manchester, hoping to make it to a street night this summer at New England Dragway, once my tune is good. |
Naturally aspirated:
Trubo: I was thinking that the car sure feels fast for only 8psi wastegate pressure, then I noticed my boost gauge reaching 15 psi over 5,000 RPM. Apparently I need to port the wastegate a wee bit more than I already have and check what my boost cut settings are. I'll collect a log after I recalibrate/replace my O2 sensor. |
Over the last week I pulled the turbo out and enlarged the wastegate hole to within 2mm (radial) of the flapper diameter. Previously, I'd just ported it and left the hole size unchanged. Now, I'm showing a pretty solid 8 psi to redline, so that's comforting (if not quite such a kick in the pants). I neglected to take pictures, because I was only getting about 60 minutes a day to work on the car.
A couple questions:
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The snow is gone but I"m still having a hard time getting up my driveway.
And my real estate agent didn't understand why I was adamant about no homeowners associations. :giggle: |
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I've got second Miata in my driveway for a little while. My father is selling his NB because I made an off-hand comment that at 68 years old he'd probably be better off in an ND.
Lots of pollen floating around right now. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 And I found some time to build a chicken coop. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 Fresh eggs, buk buk. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 |
Thread resurrection. A FedEx tractor trailer stopped at my house yesterday.
What's in the box? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...49ad5960d1.jpg BeePeeSixDee? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...72bc36f2ab.jpg I PayPal'd Prestige Auto on Monday and had a motor at my door by Thursday all the way from the UK. I worked with John at Prestige through email and communication was clear and complete throughout. I'm quite satisfied. The motor has a claimed 79k on it with 180psi in all four cylinders and included a complete motor with manifolds (squaretop!), ECU, wiring harness, the upper half of the steering column with ignition/key switch, and all the door/trunk/glovebox locks. One could could re-key a whole car if they wanted, but I'll likely sell all that stuff to replenish my budget. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...500ab201fa.jpg Clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate look like they're in reasonable shape. Not too thrashed, which is a comforting sign. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...88d3cecf8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...657819d72.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c5790bb6.jpeg There's some material removed from the crown on the flywheel bolt heads. I'm not sure what to make of that. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...15fcbb301.jpeg I haven't fully settled on my plans for the motor. I've always wanted to rebuild a motor, but if I can verify good compression, I may use it as-is with just some maintenance. Forged internals would be nice, but at the end of the day I'm most interested in better low-end than my T3 1.6 can deliver, and upgrading fueling, cooling, and driveline to handle much more than 250hp seems like a rabbit hole of cost I'm not ready to commit to. In any case, my car is running well now, so I can take my time planning and building this setup. |
I'd crack it open and throw some rods in it, at least. Just because you are going to want more than 250whp, I see how you drive.
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Yeah, I'm leaning towards at least rods. I've never rebuilt a motor before and it's something I'd like to learn.
I tried to do a compression test with my 1/2"cordless impact gun, but it didn't have enough nut to turn the engine over., so I picked up a leakdown tester: 1: 8% 2: 18% 3: 2% 4: 8% Cylinder 2 is a little concerning. I could hear and feel air coming out of the exhaust ports, always on the front valve for each cylinder. I'm not sure what to make of that trend. I also sent out an oil sample to Blackstone for analysis, so I should have a better sense for the health of the motor. The inside of my squaretop manifold is filthy. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7750bb7e2.jpeg |
Today I finished stripping all the accessories from the motor and separated the head and oil pan from the block. Now I have a minor roadblock until I go out and buy a E10 socket to remove the main bearing support plate.
Things look remarkably clean under the valve cover, compared to other pictures I've seen. None of the brown/orange staining of the cast parts. Lookit dem cam caps! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6561a6d22.jpeg Combustion chambers seem... unremarkable to me. They look fine, I guess. Nothing caught my notice that would have caused the 18% leakdown test result on cylinder #2 from the forward exhaust valve. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc3b823e9.jpeg This seems like significant carbon build-up on the piston tops. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...35bec967b.jpeg I don't feel a lip on the cylinder walls and the crosshatching has nothing obviously wrong with it that I can see, but I'm a :noob: to engine internals. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d31f185a.jpeg Inside of the oil pan looks sludgier that expected. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...074b1739b.jpeg Off to buy an E10 socket and contemplate compression ratios. Supposing I stuck with 250 hp, would the 10:1 help give me all the spools and all the torques? Or should I succumb to "while you're in there" and get some 84mm 9:1 forged pistons so have headroom for ALLOFIT later on? |
Alright, updated plan of attack. Nothing here is original, I'm mostly just writing stuff down to make sense of it while I research and document my reasoning for future reference. I'm breaking things out into stages to spread out the :burncash: and get a better sense of timeline.
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Now you are talkin!
I think the BE pump could be safely skipped if you balance your rotating assembly and run an ATI damper like you mentioned. Just make sure to get a new OE vvt oil pump to go back together with. |
Why a new OEM pump? Should I be concerned about reusing the pump that came with my motor?
Looks the bare BE gears are available separately. How hard of a job is it to install them in the OEM VVT pump I just puled off my motor? Less skill required than building the rest of the motor? |
Originally Posted by adamiata
(Post 1576925)
Why a new OEM pump? Should I be concerned about reusing the pump that came with my motor?
Looks the bare BE gears are available separately. How hard of a job is it to install them in the OEM VVT pump I just puled off my motor? Less skill required than building the rest of the motor? As for dropping gears into a pump, I believe it's pretty simple but might even be cheaper to just buy a pump with their gears than it is to buy a new OE pump and install the gears. |
@Fireindc , if I remember right, you went with forged rods and stock pistons on your car at similar power levels to my goals. Any regrets, now that you've buttoned the motor up and put it back in the car?
I'm still waffling on internals and feeling a strong desire to avoid the machine shop altogether by going the ball-hone route. |
No regrets at all. I've yet to push this motor to 300+ whp, but I've been daily driving and tracking it around ~260whp for the last 2 years and the motor has held up great. I daily drive the car, so I appreciate that I can start the car when it's 20* outside and not have to worry too much about excess wear due to forged pistons.
So far so good. Time will tell, still going to up the boost soon, but I see no reason to run more than my current level at the track ever. My logic when building the motor was to not overbuild it, as the rest of the drivetrain falls apart pretty quickly past 300whp and I'm not looking to go down that rabbit hole. |
Subbed. This is a pretty interesting read. I purchased a 50k VVT motor from @yossi126 that should be on its way over soon. Also have a 115k mile 94 1.8 sitting in my shed waiting for judgement day. Right now I'm contemplating compression testing the VVT motor and possibly dropping it in as-is. I live on an island and am only planning for around 200-250hp. They say power is addictive though and you've got me interested in possibly buying new, or harvesting pistons from the 180psi across the board 94 1.8 for more head room. Im planning on running pump gas, 92 octane as that is what’s widely available. Professional tuners that are Megasquirt knowledgeable are almost non-existent here. Im wondering if 10:1 compression is too fine a line for me to risk blowing my new engine. Planning on getting it sorted first and wiring the VVT to my MS3 and reading, reading, reading before dropping in my gt2560r. Had that paperweight in storage for over a year now. BTW, my car is a 90 too. :3
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Recent progress: I finished tearing down the head and block today. I have a spare expendable 1.6 block and head that I plan to practice drill honing, valve lapping, and some mild port work on. Once I'm comfortable with that, I'll move on to the BP6D work.
I plasti-gauged the main bearings all at 0.015 and measured the main and rod journals with digital calipers - admittedly not perfect but I was consistently getting 1.9655" for the mains and 1.7685 for the rods. Best case measurement error on that is +/-0.0005. FSM spec is 1.9661-1.9667 and 1.7693-1.7699, respectively, so they're a touch on the small side if measurements are to be believed. Not bad for oil clearance from what I've read, but I'll see if I can borrow a good micrometer to get more credible numbers. In any case, I ordered standard clearance ACL bearings, ARP fasteners, and Manley rods. Next steps are to borrow a bore gauge to check the bores better, and start cleaning the head and valves. Also need to select rings.
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1577690)
No regrets at all. I've yet to push this motor to 300+ whp, but I've been daily driving and tracking it around ~260whp for the last 2 years and the motor has held up great. I daily drive the car, so I appreciate that I can start the car when it's 20* outside and not have to worry too much about excess wear due to forged pistons.
So far so good. Time will tell, still going to up the boost soon, but I see no reason to run more than my current level at the track ever. My logic when building the motor was to not overbuild it, as the rest of the drivetrain falls apart pretty quickly past 300whp and I'm not looking to go down that rabbit hole.
Originally Posted by Metallic Fox
(Post 1577736)
Subbed. This is a pretty interesting read. I purchased a 50k VVT motor from @yossi126 that should be on its way over soon. Also have a 115k mile 94 1.8 sitting in my shed waiting for judgement day. Right now I'm contemplating compression testing the VVT motor and possibly dropping it in as-is. I live on an island and am only planning for around 200-250hp. They say power is addictive though and you've got me interested in possibly buying new, or harvesting pistons from the 180psi across the board 94 1.8 for more head room. Im planning on running pump gas, 92 octane as that is what’s widely available. Professional tuners that are Megasquirt knowledgeable are almost non-existent here. Im wondering if 10:1 compression is too fine a line for me to risk blowing my new engine. Planning on getting it sorted first and wiring the VVT to my MS3 and reading, reading, reading before dropping in my gt2560r. Had that paperweight in storage for over a year now. BTW, my car is a 90 too. :3
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Oil analysis results are good:
Originally Posted by Blackstone
ADAM: Thanks for the notes. We're pleased to be able to tell you this salvaged engine doesn't have any glaring issues. Most metals read a bit below averages, which for the Mazda 1.8L 4-cyl engine are based on ~3,700 miles of oil use. Even slightly higher copper isn't especially concerning for bronze parts. The flashpoint showed a trace of fuel, but that's okay. Small amounts like that can come from idling, short trips, etc. (anytime the engine doesn't get to full operating temp) and don't typically cause poor wear. The viscosity is that of a 0W/40. Good!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...16695a347.jpeg Also, this kitty right here used up about 8 of her lives this weekend. She slipped out of the house and got hit by a motorcycle while my kids (5 & 7) watched. I thought for sure she was a goner, she was limp when I carried her out of the road but started breathing again real ragged. The whole situation just about broke my heart, but after an X-ray and night at the emergency vet, she's going to make a full recovery. No fractures, just a concussion, some bruising, and fluid build up around her lungs. She spent a night in an 02 chamber and got some pain meds, but otherwise we just have to keep her calm for a week. She's one fuckin' nice kitty, less than a year old, with a great personality. We're glad to have her back. :party: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b0422083fa.jpg |
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