I don't think I've ever seen any engine run with the timing that far off. BP powa!!!
Always start with the basics. Low hanging fruit first. Glad you got it fixed. |
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I have COPS, so no more igniter. That, and the major misfire/breakup issues seem to have been solved by unfucking the cam timing.
I'm a little east of Manchester, hoping to make it to a street night this summer at New England Dragway, once my tune is good. |
Naturally aspirated:
Trubo: I was thinking that the car sure feels fast for only 8psi wastegate pressure, then I noticed my boost gauge reaching 15 psi over 5,000 RPM. Apparently I need to port the wastegate a wee bit more than I already have and check what my boost cut settings are. I'll collect a log after I recalibrate/replace my O2 sensor. |
Over the last week I pulled the turbo out and enlarged the wastegate hole to within 2mm (radial) of the flapper diameter. Previously, I'd just ported it and left the hole size unchanged. Now, I'm showing a pretty solid 8 psi to redline, so that's comforting (if not quite such a kick in the pants). I neglected to take pictures, because I was only getting about 60 minutes a day to work on the car.
A couple questions:
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The snow is gone but I"m still having a hard time getting up my driveway.
And my real estate agent didn't understand why I was adamant about no homeowners associations. :giggle: |
8 Attachment(s)
I've got second Miata in my driveway for a little while. My father is selling his NB because I made an off-hand comment that at 68 years old he'd probably be better off in an ND.
Lots of pollen floating around right now. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 And I found some time to build a chicken coop. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 Fresh eggs, buk buk. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465475252 |
Thread resurrection. A FedEx tractor trailer stopped at my house yesterday.
What's in the box? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...49ad5960d1.jpg BeePeeSixDee? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...72bc36f2ab.jpg I PayPal'd Prestige Auto on Monday and had a motor at my door by Thursday all the way from the UK. I worked with John at Prestige through email and communication was clear and complete throughout. I'm quite satisfied. The motor has a claimed 79k on it with 180psi in all four cylinders and included a complete motor with manifolds (squaretop!), ECU, wiring harness, the upper half of the steering column with ignition/key switch, and all the door/trunk/glovebox locks. One could could re-key a whole car if they wanted, but I'll likely sell all that stuff to replenish my budget. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...500ab201fa.jpg Clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate look like they're in reasonable shape. Not too thrashed, which is a comforting sign. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...88d3cecf8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...657819d72.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c5790bb6.jpeg There's some material removed from the crown on the flywheel bolt heads. I'm not sure what to make of that. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...15fcbb301.jpeg I haven't fully settled on my plans for the motor. I've always wanted to rebuild a motor, but if I can verify good compression, I may use it as-is with just some maintenance. Forged internals would be nice, but at the end of the day I'm most interested in better low-end than my T3 1.6 can deliver, and upgrading fueling, cooling, and driveline to handle much more than 250hp seems like a rabbit hole of cost I'm not ready to commit to. In any case, my car is running well now, so I can take my time planning and building this setup. |
I'd crack it open and throw some rods in it, at least. Just because you are going to want more than 250whp, I see how you drive.
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Yeah, I'm leaning towards at least rods. I've never rebuilt a motor before and it's something I'd like to learn.
I tried to do a compression test with my 1/2"cordless impact gun, but it didn't have enough nut to turn the engine over., so I picked up a leakdown tester: 1: 8% 2: 18% 3: 2% 4: 8% Cylinder 2 is a little concerning. I could hear and feel air coming out of the exhaust ports, always on the front valve for each cylinder. I'm not sure what to make of that trend. I also sent out an oil sample to Blackstone for analysis, so I should have a better sense for the health of the motor. The inside of my squaretop manifold is filthy. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7750bb7e2.jpeg |
Today I finished stripping all the accessories from the motor and separated the head and oil pan from the block. Now I have a minor roadblock until I go out and buy a E10 socket to remove the main bearing support plate.
Things look remarkably clean under the valve cover, compared to other pictures I've seen. None of the brown/orange staining of the cast parts. Lookit dem cam caps! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6561a6d22.jpeg Combustion chambers seem... unremarkable to me. They look fine, I guess. Nothing caught my notice that would have caused the 18% leakdown test result on cylinder #2 from the forward exhaust valve. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc3b823e9.jpeg This seems like significant carbon build-up on the piston tops. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...35bec967b.jpeg I don't feel a lip on the cylinder walls and the crosshatching has nothing obviously wrong with it that I can see, but I'm a :noob: to engine internals. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d31f185a.jpeg Inside of the oil pan looks sludgier that expected. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...074b1739b.jpeg Off to buy an E10 socket and contemplate compression ratios. Supposing I stuck with 250 hp, would the 10:1 help give me all the spools and all the torques? Or should I succumb to "while you're in there" and get some 84mm 9:1 forged pistons so have headroom for ALLOFIT later on? |
Alright, updated plan of attack. Nothing here is original, I'm mostly just writing stuff down to make sense of it while I research and document my reasoning for future reference. I'm breaking things out into stages to spread out the :burncash: and get a better sense of timeline.
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Now you are talkin!
I think the BE pump could be safely skipped if you balance your rotating assembly and run an ATI damper like you mentioned. Just make sure to get a new OE vvt oil pump to go back together with. |
Why a new OEM pump? Should I be concerned about reusing the pump that came with my motor?
Looks the bare BE gears are available separately. How hard of a job is it to install them in the OEM VVT pump I just puled off my motor? Less skill required than building the rest of the motor? |
Originally Posted by adamiata
(Post 1576925)
Why a new OEM pump? Should I be concerned about reusing the pump that came with my motor?
Looks the bare BE gears are available separately. How hard of a job is it to install them in the OEM VVT pump I just puled off my motor? Less skill required than building the rest of the motor? As for dropping gears into a pump, I believe it's pretty simple but might even be cheaper to just buy a pump with their gears than it is to buy a new OE pump and install the gears. |
@Fireindc , if I remember right, you went with forged rods and stock pistons on your car at similar power levels to my goals. Any regrets, now that you've buttoned the motor up and put it back in the car?
I'm still waffling on internals and feeling a strong desire to avoid the machine shop altogether by going the ball-hone route. |
No regrets at all. I've yet to push this motor to 300+ whp, but I've been daily driving and tracking it around ~260whp for the last 2 years and the motor has held up great. I daily drive the car, so I appreciate that I can start the car when it's 20* outside and not have to worry too much about excess wear due to forged pistons.
So far so good. Time will tell, still going to up the boost soon, but I see no reason to run more than my current level at the track ever. My logic when building the motor was to not overbuild it, as the rest of the drivetrain falls apart pretty quickly past 300whp and I'm not looking to go down that rabbit hole. |
Subbed. This is a pretty interesting read. I purchased a 50k VVT motor from @yossi126 that should be on its way over soon. Also have a 115k mile 94 1.8 sitting in my shed waiting for judgement day. Right now I'm contemplating compression testing the VVT motor and possibly dropping it in as-is. I live on an island and am only planning for around 200-250hp. They say power is addictive though and you've got me interested in possibly buying new, or harvesting pistons from the 180psi across the board 94 1.8 for more head room. Im planning on running pump gas, 92 octane as that is what’s widely available. Professional tuners that are Megasquirt knowledgeable are almost non-existent here. Im wondering if 10:1 compression is too fine a line for me to risk blowing my new engine. Planning on getting it sorted first and wiring the VVT to my MS3 and reading, reading, reading before dropping in my gt2560r. Had that paperweight in storage for over a year now. BTW, my car is a 90 too. :3
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Recent progress: I finished tearing down the head and block today. I have a spare expendable 1.6 block and head that I plan to practice drill honing, valve lapping, and some mild port work on. Once I'm comfortable with that, I'll move on to the BP6D work.
I plasti-gauged the main bearings all at 0.015 and measured the main and rod journals with digital calipers - admittedly not perfect but I was consistently getting 1.9655" for the mains and 1.7685 for the rods. Best case measurement error on that is +/-0.0005. FSM spec is 1.9661-1.9667 and 1.7693-1.7699, respectively, so they're a touch on the small side if measurements are to be believed. Not bad for oil clearance from what I've read, but I'll see if I can borrow a good micrometer to get more credible numbers. In any case, I ordered standard clearance ACL bearings, ARP fasteners, and Manley rods. Next steps are to borrow a bore gauge to check the bores better, and start cleaning the head and valves. Also need to select rings.
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1577690)
No regrets at all. I've yet to push this motor to 300+ whp, but I've been daily driving and tracking it around ~260whp for the last 2 years and the motor has held up great. I daily drive the car, so I appreciate that I can start the car when it's 20* outside and not have to worry too much about excess wear due to forged pistons.
So far so good. Time will tell, still going to up the boost soon, but I see no reason to run more than my current level at the track ever. My logic when building the motor was to not overbuild it, as the rest of the drivetrain falls apart pretty quickly past 300whp and I'm not looking to go down that rabbit hole.
Originally Posted by Metallic Fox
(Post 1577736)
Subbed. This is a pretty interesting read. I purchased a 50k VVT motor from @yossi126 that should be on its way over soon. Also have a 115k mile 94 1.8 sitting in my shed waiting for judgement day. Right now I'm contemplating compression testing the VVT motor and possibly dropping it in as-is. I live on an island and am only planning for around 200-250hp. They say power is addictive though and you've got me interested in possibly buying new, or harvesting pistons from the 180psi across the board 94 1.8 for more head room. Im planning on running pump gas, 92 octane as that is what’s widely available. Professional tuners that are Megasquirt knowledgeable are almost non-existent here. Im wondering if 10:1 compression is too fine a line for me to risk blowing my new engine. Planning on getting it sorted first and wiring the VVT to my MS3 and reading, reading, reading before dropping in my gt2560r. Had that paperweight in storage for over a year now. BTW, my car is a 90 too. :3
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Oil analysis results are good:
Originally Posted by Blackstone
ADAM: Thanks for the notes. We're pleased to be able to tell you this salvaged engine doesn't have any glaring issues. Most metals read a bit below averages, which for the Mazda 1.8L 4-cyl engine are based on ~3,700 miles of oil use. Even slightly higher copper isn't especially concerning for bronze parts. The flashpoint showed a trace of fuel, but that's okay. Small amounts like that can come from idling, short trips, etc. (anytime the engine doesn't get to full operating temp) and don't typically cause poor wear. The viscosity is that of a 0W/40. Good!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...16695a347.jpeg Also, this kitty right here used up about 8 of her lives this weekend. She slipped out of the house and got hit by a motorcycle while my kids (5 & 7) watched. I thought for sure she was a goner, she was limp when I carried her out of the road but started breathing again real ragged. The whole situation just about broke my heart, but after an X-ray and night at the emergency vet, she's going to make a full recovery. No fractures, just a concussion, some bruising, and fluid build up around her lungs. She spent a night in an 02 chamber and got some pain meds, but otherwise we just have to keep her calm for a week. She's one fuckin' nice kitty, less than a year old, with a great personality. We're glad to have her back. :party: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b0422083fa.jpg |
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