rleete

iTrader: (21)

Cruise control?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Didn't Nial have a glowing review for his Boss Frog pieces?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I hope that T is before the 1-way valve or you're gonna be in for some serious anus puckering the 1st time you drive your car

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Hahaha i was just thinking that. I remember the time i referenced my AFPR off of something similar. That was fun. It was like a permanent peak/hold fuel pressure system.

Boost once, rich FOREVER.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

**** T ing off of your BB. That **** scares the **** outta me.

FAB

iTrader: (4)

The one way valve is inside the rubber line on the correct side of that T. But double check - you should feel a lump inside the rubber line.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Just in case not obvious from everyone's responses, that T is not OEM.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

That looks like the oil feed for your turbo?

Yeah, that vac T is not stock. I'd use it for a boost gauge or MS source provided the above about the check valve.

I've got the Boss Frog fender braces. Its disturbing how much difference they make. The ONLY thing that I've experienced that was better than the fender braces was Gesso's seam welded NB1. That thing is scary rigid, makes my NB1 feel loose and floppy.

You know, perfect time to mention seam welding now that you have already done all the bodywork and have moved to reassembly

curly

iTrader: (25)

If that's for the MS, get rid of it, replace it with a new oem hose, and T off the FPR line.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Oh yeah, listen to Curly. I have an NB so no FPR vac line

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

I used a line like that for my boost gauge. Too much "noise" in the signal to use it for anything else.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I finally got the smoothest MAP signal for my MS by doing exactly this. T it of the FPR line, and I ran a little "fuel filter" inline as a buffer to smooth out the signal, like this:

Jeffbucc

Thanks guys. Anyone have a picture of it T'd off the FPR line? Sorry, my brain works like that.

I'll search for one once done with work. I'm sure curly/someone else had it documented.

Jeffbucc

Finished off all the fluids except the radiator.

Pressure bled the Master cylinder for the clutch. Just in case anyone wants to know, the pressure bleeder cap for my 2010 VW Jetta TDI was a PERFECT FIT for the clutch master resevoir. I was really happy since the cap I made didn't work very well. So if you are looking for a cap for the clutch, look at VW!

I forgot how much harder the clutch is to engage on this car! I'm too used to my light VW clutch.



Filled the transmission up with some good Amsoil and replaced the crush washers for both the bolts. Transmission took almost the full 2 quarts, was getting scared I didn't buy enough but it started to drip out at the end. Pretty dang easy. Getting the torque wrench around the downpipe was a bit of a pain but nothing a wobble extension couldn't solve.



And some fresh oil and a new filter for the engine too. Is there any way to bleed the turbo oil lines before first run?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

What manner of pump is that? I like it.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Ironically it looks like a shampoo bottle pump.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Ohhh this thing is so close to starting I can feel it!!!

curly

iTrader: (25)

Disconnect the spark plugs and fuel injectors and crank it until you see the oil pressure gauge move.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I usually remove oil feed from turbo, crank until it spews oil into a cup.

Re-install. Crank a few more times to prime.

Then put fuses back in. Fire.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

I usually just start the car.

It takes the same amount of engine rotations to make oil pressure regardless. just start it and it will be fine. Unless you have a backflow valve on your turbo line it likely drains back to somewhere else in the oil system every time you turn off the car.