93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
09-15-2015, 10:19 AM
#4262
Holy wuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut. O_O
I had a similar thing happen when i finally tore down the MX6 motor after 225k miles. I was on my 3rd turbo since 172k. The first one died a violent death when it ingested a flange adapter bolt that hadn't been sized properly. Second one slowly blew out the seals and got a bunch of play.
Imagine my surprise when i found relatively intact chunks of the first turbo in my oil pan...
...
...
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FORTY THOUSAND MILES LATER
My cylinder walls were much more jacked up than yours, though. Motor didn't seem to care in the slightest.
I had a similar thing happen when i finally tore down the MX6 motor after 225k miles. I was on my 3rd turbo since 172k. The first one died a violent death when it ingested a flange adapter bolt that hadn't been sized properly. Second one slowly blew out the seals and got a bunch of play.
Imagine my surprise when i found relatively intact chunks of the first turbo in my oil pan...
...
...
...
FORTY THOUSAND MILES LATER
My cylinder walls were much more jacked up than yours, though. Motor didn't seem to care in the slightest.
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09-15-2015, 10:33 AM
#4266
I've given the insurance company all i can give. Next step is filing a complaint with DOI because it shouldn't take a month to settle a total loss claim and i'm super sick of driving Major Hater every day at this point.
Almost every vehicle i've wanted in the meantime has already sold, so i'm just not shopping anymore until i have cash in my hand. :(
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09-15-2015, 12:05 PM
#4272
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
I don't see why they would be bad after being freshly rebuilt though....please god don't let that statement bite me in the ***.
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09-15-2015, 12:17 PM
#4274
Yeah I thought about that too, and also hope the same as Rick.
You really should check it yourself though, and really it's best done with head still torqued down to the block.
Make sure the head is checked and surfaced ONLY if it absolutely needs it. Your head has been cleaned up a couple times already, no? You don't want to end up with a det-happy engine like cordus from decking it down too much. ESP since you're on pump gas
You really should check it yourself though, and really it's best done with head still torqued down to the block.
Make sure the head is checked and surfaced ONLY if it absolutely needs it. Your head has been cleaned up a couple times already, no? You don't want to end up with a det-happy engine like cordus from decking it down too much. ESP since you're on pump gas
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09-15-2015, 12:20 PM
#4275
Elite Member
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 6,593
Total Cats: 1,259
Seriously, I'm at a loss as to what that might be. It DOES look like a plastic cage for a set of ball bearings but there are not ball bearings in a BP. There are however ball bearings inside an EFR... 
Plastic or metal, ferrous or not (stick a magnet to it) will also help with identification. I mean, if its plastic that's not going to help, but you get the idea. in4answers.
Plastic or metal, ferrous or not (stick a magnet to it) will also help with identification. I mean, if its plastic that's not going to help, but you get the idea. in4answers.
Good it was finally figured out.
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09-15-2015, 12:21 PM
#4276
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
Yeah talked about that with the machinist. He said he is only going to do a skim pass to ensure a good seal with the MLS gasket.
I'm VERY happy in a glass half full way that I tore the block down. Any longer with these issues and this could have been much much worse.
I'm VERY happy in a glass half full way that I tore the block down. Any longer with these issues and this could have been much much worse.
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