petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

My ARTech Vbands look identical to yours. I put my nuts on the way they came (opposite of the pic you took) which I'd suggest. They've held fine, though I wish I had the fun thumb hole version. Hope you have a deep socket that fits the nut for ease of install.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

I have to check if I have a deep socket that small. Otherwise, time for another trip to Harbor Freight.

Got the MTX-L installed and calibrated last night, and the boost gauge in. I tried sharing the 12V switched and the ground with the boost gauge and it just kept flickering. Is there some reason it doesn't play nice with the wideband power/grounds? I ended up just removing power to the boost gauge for now.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

So I think I got trolled. It's like somehow ATP turbo knew this hose wouldn't work with my -10 AN fittings..


Luckily Auto Zone has awesome employees who feel bad for you when you tell them about ordering fails and they like to help you out by giving you free heater hose to use for the time being.


On a brighter note, its pretty nice having aluminum sheet and a machine shop downstairs. Now I dont have to ziptie my gauges to the dash bar uprights.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

So it started. I have a pretty significant exhaust leak from the mani/turbo or turbo/dp cant tell which yet. do you tighten these vbands til you literally cant anymore? I was worried about stripping out the threads if I tightened much more.

Also, idling, the IAC valve makes a weird pulsing buzz noise. I am guessing it is just a semi stuck valve so I tried squirting some seafoam in there. it worked for about 3 seconds then started buzzing again. anyone seen this before?

first start turbo miata IAC noise - YouTube

And are injectors normally this noisy or am I just being paranoid? I don't remember the injectors clicking louder than the HLAs.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

adjust the frequency for the iac

and yes five-o's are really noisy for some reason. my buddy's sounded like taht too

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

Cool. I'll check the frequency later. I don have a laptop I can use for TS so petrolmed is helping me with it later. I just started it to check for leaks and let it come to temp

What freq should I aim for?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

The one that doens't make it sound like a duck lol

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

*goose* it'a a more masculine bird.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

Got it all set up and running thanks 100% to petrolmed. I learned a good bit about tuning going over it all with him and we got it running safely for now. I started getting spark blowout so I got some BKR7E plugs to swap in and noticed I had oil in my cyl 4 plug well so a new valve cover seal has already been ordered along with some new plug wires because those are probably the originals on there so could stand to be replaced.

I am most likely getting dyno tuned next sat before an autox sunday so I can get some spark tuning done and see what kind of power level I am at.

Pretty excited to finally be near the end and get to start enjoying the car again.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

Plug wires replaced with NGK blue and plugs replaced with BKR7E and all is well. No oil in plug well after driving around for around an hour cruising/light/hard boost. I will keep monitoring it to make sure but maybe PO just spilled oil in there but it was black so either it got cooked from sitting in the hot plug well or ir is leaking from under the VC. Time will tell.

Passing people on the highway in 5th by lightly pushing the gas pedal is awesome.

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

Masculine bird/gander actually describes the sound really well lol.

Hooray no spark blowout! Lets do another tune this week so you can drive around in all imaginable conditions worry free, better performing, and more efficient. Get a beater computer for tuning!

I'll email your tuning files once my apartment has internet so you can post them. Or I'll just post them. Only have connection at work for now.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

If you wanna post them that's fine with me. I wouldn't mind some suggestions on what to adjust. I am still thinking about the dyno this Saturday still but if people can suggest some better spark tuning and I am happy with that I may pass on the dyno.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

Ended up going to the dyno. I was assuming I would be around 200hp because my butt dyno told me this car felt similar to my last one which was 198hp. Initial pull was 208hp so I guess my butt dyno wasn't too off haha. This was just base spark map and autotune with petrolmed at around 9 psi

Smoothed out the AFR table alot and played with timing a bit, upped to 14/15psi and got 259/236 which I was happy with. Waiting on the dyno guy to email me the datalog and dyno plot and I will upload them.

news to cause me sadface: removed plugs to gap them closer due to spark blowout and there is oil on my cyl 4 plug. tested compression and it was just under 180, compared to cyl 1 is about the same but cyl 1 is dry. anyone see oil blowby without seeing low compression numbers? I know this is on the low end of the range but they were all about the same.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Possible that the vc gasket is leaking and it got on the plug? Or is the rest of it completely dry?

180 is a pretty decent compression number but compression doesn't tell the whole story. I'd do leakdown too just in case.

Congrats on the numbers. Sounds solid. Post the dyno plot, datalog, and your msq when you get a chance.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

Well i did have oil in the cyl 4 plug well when I changed my plugs last weekend after autotuning. I suspected VC seal but I have been checking the well and havent noticed any oil accumulation since I swapped plugs. I had never checked plugs before though so there is a chance the PO spilled oil when doing an oil change for all I know (I can lie to myself right?) but when I pulled the plugs after the dyno session, there was still no noticeable oil accumulation, except for the portion of plug inside the cylinder that was pretty wet. Would oil leaking into the well be able to travel down the threads inside the cylinder? I ordered a new VC gasket I need to get that in and hope it fixes my problem.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

leakdown test sounds even more useful after that post

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

just clicked the link for your injectors.


Were they really $80 for the set of 4?

Link you provided : EV14 - 550cc/min Import Long; Mitsubishi Eclipse/Galant 3.8L, 3.0L, 6G75, 6G72 - Import Fuel Injectors - Custom Milled High Performance Impreza WRX and Mazda RX7 Siemens Injectors - 026IMP550X

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

sorry to disappoint you, but that is per injector lol. Notice the field under the price that has qty 1

18PSI - I've never done a leakdown test, what would it show me that a compression test wouldn't show me? low compression test suggests worn rings, leakdown yielding significant pressure drop also points to worn rings (or potentially valves) but wouldn't the opposite be true as well? (decent compression test would suggest a decent leakdown test as well?)

Learn me some knowledge

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Compression test: dummy test. Just tells you your compression numbers, the most basic diagnostic.

leakdown test: Much better for troubleshooting. Will tell you if you have excessive leakdown (low compression), and you will be able to listen and pinpoint exactly where the leak is (be it rings, headgasket, valves, etc.). Leakdown you can apply 100PSI of pressure to the motor and listen to various places to see where most of the leakdown is coming from. For instance, if you hear air hissing from the intake manifold, that's intake valves leaking. If you hear air coming from the exhaust, that's exhaust valves. If you hear air coming from the oil fill cap, that's rings, bubbles in the radiator is head gasket.

To perform a leakdown you must have a leakdown tester, an air compressor, and have each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke so the valves are closed when you do the test.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I understood the concept but i just was getting at if my compression is good wont i not have much leakdown either? and vice versa? if I have low compression numbers, THEN I would want to do a leakdown to pinpoint where the leak is? but since my compression is fine, won't I have very little leakdown? otherwise I wouldn't have had good compression numbers? Or is that statement not true?