7’s Boost Attempt Part Deux
01-05-2015, 07:46 PM
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7’s Boost Attempt Part Deux
Turbo Tiiyyyymmmee
Well, after parting ways with the first Miata, I’ve concluded that the second Miata must be turboed as well. This round, with mo dollahz, mo skillz and mo taste. Well, perhaps not more taste… but definitely more time. The NA had its fair share of boy racer, mismatched spray paint and questionable automotive ethics. It “ran” on a reliably slipping clutch, who knows what kind of “tune” and much hoping and praying to the Car Gods. I’m trying to do this one proper. No shortcuts, no cheaping out, and making sure form follows function. I’ve been collecting parts for the last few months and soon the final key to the puzzle, MS3 Basic will arrive and I’ll be ready for the install. My goal is a reliable 200 HP before MATG this summer. This will be my first shot at tuning with anything more than a piggyback so the learning curve seems steep. Perhaps I should continue those prayers to the Car Gods…
Obligatory Current Pictures:
Requisite parts to install:
Well, after parting ways with the first Miata, I’ve concluded that the second Miata must be turboed as well. This round, with mo dollahz, mo skillz and mo taste. Well, perhaps not more taste… but definitely more time. The NA had its fair share of boy racer, mismatched spray paint and questionable automotive ethics. It “ran” on a reliably slipping clutch, who knows what kind of “tune” and much hoping and praying to the Car Gods. I’m trying to do this one proper. No shortcuts, no cheaping out, and making sure form follows function. I’ve been collecting parts for the last few months and soon the final key to the puzzle, MS3 Basic will arrive and I’ll be ready for the install. My goal is a reliable 200 HP before MATG this summer. This will be my first shot at tuning with anything more than a piggyback so the learning curve seems steep. Perhaps I should continue those prayers to the Car Gods…
Obligatory Current Pictures:
Requisite parts to install:
Last edited by that7guy; 01-05-2015 at 07:56 PM. Reason: I no spellz good
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01-05-2015, 09:42 PM
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Thanks, I hope it keeps getting better
I've been hoarding parts for a while now. I almost started the install a few months ago but after some research and self reflection, I decided to go in a slightly different direction. I liquidated, then hoarded new parts. Now once my ECU arrives I'll be 100% ready.
I've been hoarding parts for a while now. I almost started the install a few months ago but after some research and self reflection, I decided to go in a slightly different direction. I liquidated, then hoarded new parts. Now once my ECU arrives I'll be 100% ready.
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01-05-2015, 09:48 PM
#5
Oh you were going with a Rotrex setup right? Maybe that's why I was confused...anyways look forward to your progress because you always invest in quality parts and that is always wise and if what you have done so far is a reflection ofwhat's to come, I am sure the turbo setup will turn out great. I too am quit nervous about the path of boost and the learning curve that goes with it.
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01-17-2015, 06:13 PM
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Finally, some progress! Accomplished a lot more then I thought I would today. Old header and downpipe out, frame slotted, fluids drained. I quit before I had to drill and tap the pan mostly because I didn't want to try it when I was a getting tired and I want to do some reading online. I still have to figure out if I want to mount my IAT sensor direct into the outlet of the intercooler or cut the FM silicone hoses and mount a welded pipe between. Any thoughts?
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01-22-2015, 10:37 AM
#8
Cool, a fellow FM2 + MS3 Basic setup. 
Make sure to put 5 psi on your PCV so the drill-n-tap shavings blow out instead of collecting in the oil pan. Worked perfect for me, though it helped to have a 2nd set of hands holding the air hose on the PCV while I did the drilling and tapping.
My FM silicone TB bend had an aluminum bung specifically for the IAT sensor. Does yours not? If not, call FM and get them to fix it. The bung should face almost rearward, while clearing the alternator.
The MS learning curve is indeed steep. Make sure to fully read the Tuner Studio Reference guide, and also you can search pretty much any MS topic on this forum and come up with good info.
Good luck!
... I quit before I had to drill and tap the pan mostly because I didn't want to try it when I was a getting tired and I want to do some reading online. I still have to figure out if I want to mount my IAT sensor direct into the outlet of the intercooler or cut the FM silicone hoses and mount a welded pipe between. Any thoughts?...
My FM silicone TB bend had an aluminum bung specifically for the IAT sensor. Does yours not? If not, call FM and get them to fix it. The bung should face almost rearward, while clearing the alternator.
The MS learning curve is indeed steep. Make sure to fully read the Tuner Studio Reference guide, and also you can search pretty much any MS topic on this forum and come up with good info.
Good luck!
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01-25-2015, 06:06 PM
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TWINS! Although your car is leagues above mine 
Found it! Hiding in the back of the hose. Made me feel pretty silly that I missed something so obvious but at least that solves that issue.
Todays Progress:
I had fully intended to get the pan drilled today. Ran into a speedbump when I realized the 1/2" bit wouldn't fit in my only drill. It will have to wait until I can borrow one from my girlfriends dad. I was however, able to the get the manifold/ turbo/ outlet tube all bolted together and mounted. So one step closer at least....
Todays Progress:
I had fully intended to get the pan drilled today. Ran into a speedbump when I realized the 1/2" bit wouldn't fit in my only drill. It will have to wait until I can borrow one from my girlfriends dad. I was however, able to the get the manifold/ turbo/ outlet tube all bolted together and mounted. So one step closer at least....
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03-18-2015, 12:39 PM
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This was my 4th turbo install on a Miata, and by far the most enjoyable. I think it mostly had to do with the car no longer being a DD. Taking your time really leads to less mistakes.
Thanks, its one of the reasons I decided on an NB over another NA for this project. The NB interior is such a nice place to be.
Thanks, its one of the reasons I decided on an NB over another NA for this project. The NB interior is such a nice place to be.
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03-23-2015, 02:33 PM
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Well, This weekends update: Car is up and running with MSIII!
My Autometer A/F Gauge is reading between 12-13 at idle while the MS is saying constant 14:7. I'll have to look into this as I figure the Wideband still needs to be calibrated. I'm also wondering if I'm running too rich at Idle.
My Autometer A/F Gauge is reading between 12-13 at idle while the MS is saying constant 14:7. I'll have to look into this as I figure the Wideband still needs to be calibrated. I'm also wondering if I'm running too rich at Idle.
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03-23-2015, 04:48 PM
#20
Hopefully I can help, as I've just gone down the same path.
A few checks:
*calibrate the wideband. Is it solely the Autometer, or which wideband do you have and how is it hooked up?
*what is your "stoich" set to in the MS3's software? It's under the Basic/Load Settings and then General Settings. It appears TunerStudio wrote the software assuming that gasoline is 14.7:1, so unless you're running E85, just make sure it's 14.7. This is of course different than reality (a different topic), but it puts the software in the same headspace as the code writer and also gives you a foundation that from now on Lambda 1.0 = "14.7 AFR"
*You should not be running closed loop fuel at this point. In the long term, you want the VE table roughly sorted with each cell tuned manually at a steady state. VEAL is nice and all but still a crutch.
A few checks:
*calibrate the wideband. Is it solely the Autometer, or which wideband do you have and how is it hooked up?
*what is your "stoich" set to in the MS3's software? It's under the Basic/Load Settings and then General Settings. It appears TunerStudio wrote the software assuming that gasoline is 14.7:1, so unless you're running E85, just make sure it's 14.7. This is of course different than reality (a different topic), but it puts the software in the same headspace as the code writer and also gives you a foundation that from now on Lambda 1.0 = "14.7 AFR"
*You should not be running closed loop fuel at this point. In the long term, you want the VE table roughly sorted with each cell tuned manually at a steady state. VEAL is nice and all but still a crutch.
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