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Guess I have time to figure out a miata bike rack now...
Just go trailer hitch and hitch mount platform bike rack. Just watch out though, will sit pretty low. I see used hitches on the local facebook group for $50-75 periodically. If I wasn't so lazy, this is what I would do.
My fork isn't a plus sized fork, there's not a lot to choose from in the 571mm ATC range. It still fits 2.8" tires, but not anything more. I left the steerer long because I want to get more dollars when I sell the fork later, I assure you my head is hard enough for many knocks!
I'm still a cheap bastard and I refuse to spend sixty ******* eight dollars for a RTC module. I also don't want (can't if I tried!) write new megasquirt firmware around a cheap ($3) RTC module. So I did some searching, the firmware is written around a MCP79410. Diligent makes these things called Pmods, and they have one called a RTCC Pmod based around the MCP79410! You can get them for $8.99, plus $9.99 shipping...
I don't have a coin cell yet, but it's setting time in tunerstudio and counting from there! Without a module installed it just sets to noon and resets every 60 seconds, so I guess that's good!
I also smashed my head against datasheets till **** bled and I finally understand configuring registers on SPI chips. I managed to get CAN realtime broadcasting working!! I could have used a teensy and saved a lot of time, but I need high speed 5V outputs for what I'm after so I'm staying with arduino. Now I just need to format everything like I like it and make some kind of display. I also taught myself eagle cad somewhere along the way, so I'll be having all sorts of fun with that one. I made this "interface" board for my tinyiox that should be here soon, it will hopefully fit in a cheap aluminum extruded case I'm getting from China.
I'd really like to make a bike rack that holds the thing up over the trunk, kinda like this guy has here. With a hardtop it gets a little trickier, but if you pull the chrome caps off the rear latches you get access to both bolt holes on each side and have room to run a stable across the trunk runner for the front fork. I'm hoping to use something off the tow hooks to grab the rear tire, then you can hold two bikes per miata!
Also, my PWM idle transistor exploded, just sitting chilling on the jimstim. I don't think I need it since I have ms3x but it's odd it smoked itself with no load hooked up.
I did a few things different, mainly oil feed line and the IAT sensor. Nothing spectacular, it's just a turbo jetta IAT and weld on flange you can make or buy off ebay. It's a million times better than the piece of junk GM sensor, cheaper too. The filter is a RF-1041 on a 6" spectre "performance" velocity stack. Barely fits, kind of a waste of time. It still makes all kinds of intake vac noise on part throttle, annoying.
I'm actually thinking of going full retard and trying to run a blow through nissan MAF. I've plotted the IAT, so figure I'll just log it for a while running SD and see what it's able to approxamatly flow in a 2.5" tube before I go wasting time on scaling transfer curves...
Oh, also played around with a VTA check valve on the intake side catch can. When the PCV closes in boost the check valve in the catch can should open if the can sees anything more than 2psi or so. Theory being the vaccum when the PCV opens will pull the weighted valve closed again. Seems to work, although I should put a pressure sensor in the dipstick to see if it really does anything.
Turbosmart wastegate ******* sucksss. It does not line up with the wastegate on the stock flange in any way. I made it work by putting a 1mm crush washer under one side to correct the angle error. It no longer overboosts like ******* mad, but I still feel it's sticky. It's a 7psi spring and it runs 10psi with no(!) preload. I guess that's a lie, it's enough preload to not chatter and not a tiny bit more. It doesn't seem to mind much. My poor old 1.6 has nothing on this, instant boost is instant. I also swapped to e85 for now, just scared for my engine while I'm trying to tune these freaking accel enrichments! Lean tip is real...
Photo of turbosmart gate as delivered.
So, put a 1mm washer under the outer of the two wastegate can bolts to shim the angle and it looks like this.
Better, but still a little off. Maybe 1.25mm washer?
Anywho, just checking in again! Living the daily miata life still. The slave exploded yesterday, laid on the ground for a while and we're back in business. This pair made it about 8 months, woot!
They are Hitachi slot MAFs, and they come in a 2.76 ID housing from the factory. Ford is very similar, I think GM is as well except those are frequency output, but the mounting flanges are all the same. Megasquirt converts duty to voltage internally anyway, so probably best to skip a frequency MAF. All appear to need pulldown/up resistors. The voltage devices source current, and the frequency ones are open collector. Pulldown (gnd) on voltage mafs, pullup on frequency. I believe the G35 uses a 199.5K pulldown from the factory inside the ECU. ~1K should work great for a pullup to 5V on frequency MAFs. No pulldown with a voltage MAF and you won't get a signal, just a fixed voltage.
I used a reflow toaster and a freezer to figure IAT values. Seems to be 9K at -11c, 2.2k at 25c, and 370 ohms at 80c. Seems to work OK. You can run a MAF while still speed density and log it! Or, I guess most of us cripple the density half of speed density anyway. Who even needs IAT...
The plastic housing is lame for a blow through, I don't want flanges, reducers and the like on the cold side. Ebay to the rescue, https://www.ebay.com/itm/172631855963
Looks shady, but it's not that bad for the price. The hot wire sensor actually centers on the diameter of the pipe well. I was kind of hoping it'd be offset to the side a little to boost flow, but it should be fine and might make things easier. Lots of guys selling the flanges so you can DIY if you look hard enough. Tall offsets, short offsets, centered offsets. I just bought one already done.
After changing the diameter I have to update the transfer function. I found good stuff on a few sites, but romraider has the best info here. https://www.romraider.com/forum/view...p?f=58&t=12453
These guys appear to be swapping these MAFs over to E36's. They also build a voltage divider to scale down the MAF voltage. They are talking 22% reduction with a 2.2k inline resistor, so this means they must have a 10K pulldown resistor, not 200K like the G35.
You can see Nissan guys talking about 40K series for 20% more here, so a 200K pulldown. https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/5921...ing-uprev.html
Basically they have spreadsheets that do all the work for you. Want a 64 value curve for a 2.338 ID tube, scaled to g/sec (kg/hr / 3.6) Using the sheet I build a transfer curve that should not max out at ~220g/s. Roughly ~275hp worth of MAF range. If I wanted, I could add a 2.2K inline resistor and push to ~300+hp. 3K might allow maxing the 650g/sec scale on megasquirt if the sensor is truly just a current source and not capped to 6V. I only have patience for 300 or so, so it should work?
Logging while still in SD shows that MAF peaks a good 100ms before MAP on low load/RPM transients. Looking forward to lots of logging to see if this is actually worth screwing around with, but so far it looks promising. **** this lean tip in, followed by rich lift. Always plagued with it, never truly rid of it. I don't want to dump a gallon of fuel in AE for every downshift and EAE is voodoo wichcraft I don't really want to mess with. So, this seems like the easiest route to me and as a bonus I get to ditch IAT sensor completely, or just use it to pull timing.
On the bright side I finally got freezing temp e65 startup worked out. MS3 tapered crank is perfect, I pretty much have cranking fuel maxed out as high as it can possibly go (something like 500% scaled up by 500% for the first 32 events lol) It will catch before all 4 make a complete revolution. Beautiful!
Flex fuel sensor temp doesn't respond fast enough to fix the lean hot restarts as I was hoping. Hell, just having it on the return line means I've got to prime for 5 seconds just to get it wet enough to read e85 mix. I'm using FF960's at 4 bar, return converted using a feed line off a parts car. More than 75% ASE for 30 seconds of cycles is enough to make it manageable. Sure wish there was a real fix. Might try and add a return line check valve so I at least don't have to wait for a proper flex reading on crank.
04-23-2018, 12:35 PM
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