hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Yea those arnt made for fuel, and they are sketchy.

I just saw some somewhere for like $9

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

heres a few options

Search Results for bulkhead connectors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Do note, because I know this one is going to come up. This one is meant to go through the firewall seperating your fuel cell from the driver area, not for going into the fuel cell.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

At first glance, just from the looks of it I though it was for firewall, but then I read the first review which stated how well it sealed the tank I thought I was the idiot.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Yep that was brought up already.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

You can spend $200 if youd like
fukin ridiculous

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

It looks like raceassholes have you by the ***** for a clean, cheap setup, I cant find anything else really.

Or, get another sending unit, cut out the connector and harness, and weld it you yours with that fancy welder of yours. Use one for - and the other for +.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I would buy that over racetronix.

Personal issues they told me to go Google. About their product.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

****. I didn't even think about welding. I have another sending unit already.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

welding, what are we welding. Just drill the hole and put in another stock one if thats what you're gonna do.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I looked at the stock connector and it was like pressed into a weird fitting.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Just picked up a golf cart and some batteries. With the right controller this should be a ~50hp golf cart.

Pics when I get home.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Moved here to not sidetrack the TDR SC thread, which others are already side tracking.

You got a misfire in that datalog in case you didn't know it. Probably why the power was down. Timing is way too soft, probably what's causing the misfire. And your boost control sucks, but that has nothing to do with the lack of power really, though if it held boost flat that would be nice.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Where is the misfire?

Boost control was open loop because we were just dyno tuning to get power estimates.

I'll post logs of current boost control which is better.

We advanced timing and made no more power so we left it. It's just DIYs basemap.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

See my datalog, this is no misfire. See how the RPM trace is perfectly smooth? That's how yours should be. Yours is that way at lower RPMs during the pull, but as it builds boost it starts misfiring. You can see the RPMs actually go DOWN during the pull if you look at your log on a point-by-point basis. On mine they climb on every cell as they should.

This pic has launch control in 1st gear, so ignore that part. The rest looks normal.



For no more boost than you're running that's really soft on the timing. My car misfires around 5 to 6* running 28 PSI on pump gas. You were running 10* and wayyyyy less boost.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Guess I thought I was running a DIY autotune timing map. But I just looked at theirs and its different. I think I'm running a map I got from brain somewhere.

Stock motor, I don't think I'm going to play with timing yet. At least not until I get onto the dyno after fuel upgrades this winter. I'll add it to the list and revisit it.

Look at this log. I still get those RPM events at 140kpa. And 20* timing. You sure its misfires?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

My current table for the record.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yes, RPMs dropping while WOT is a misfire. Think about it, when you're wide open, is the RPM going up, down, or staying the same? Going up of course. If a cylinder misfires, the engine suddenly slows down for a tiny moment in time because that cylinder didn't produce any power, it just wasted power doing nothing.

Other tell tale sign is AFR will be wavy too. Note your AFR bouncing around when it happens and compare to mine. Mine is a dead flat line.

That's a CYA timing table. I wouldn't run it that retarded, it's probably what's causing the misfire. Rich and retarded is how to make a motor misfire.

What plug gap and ignition system do you run?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Toyota COPs and some plug gap that someone recommended. It's probably somewhere in this thread. Interesting. I haven't even considered messing with timing because I'd rather it be conservative.
I always attributed the unsteady rpm to timing belt scatter or something.
Interesting that Curly and the tuner didn't catch it on the dyno.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

End goal is burnouts and wheelies