deezums

iTrader: (3)

I want to redo my entire engine harness still, I'm thinking about adding something like this now. I need to figure it all out in advance, because that's the point of making a not spliced up harness...

There's 4 bar GM map sensors the same size, you could switch if you needed to...

New GM 4 Bar Map Manifold Pressure Sensor Turbo Boost with Wire Plug Pigtail | eBay

I bet you could make your own, swap the SMT's...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

What sensor does the gm part use?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I think there's different sensors in the same form factor. The 3bar probably came in a diesel or something?

3 bar is good for 39.5PSI apparently. The 4 bar is probably a custom job.

GM MAP sensor identification information 1 bar 2 bar 3 bar

codrus

The cheapest approach is to buy the bare sensor and solder it in, but I suck at soldering, and I'm not even going to try to do an SMD package. Then you need to come up with a good way to strain-relieve it so that you're not yanking the sensor off the board when you pull on the vacuum line. Bleh.

The 3 bar GM one is easy, it's rugged, and you can stick it in the engine bay instead of running a vacuum hose through the firewall. It gets back to the whole "smelting the ore yourself" discussion we had on G's thread.

If you want to run ALLOFIT, get yourself a MPX5700AP. SEVEN BAR map sensor, that's 87 psi of boost. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...dW%252bQylw%3d

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I'm liking this more and more, but I need to find a 5v source I can pirate inside the MS and then connect it to a pin on the DB37. But as Aidan and I discussed, this is another project for another time. As much as I'd like to have this already working, I'm not going to have it done in time before the car heads out to get tuned.

codrus

Yeah, I don't remember which one I swiped. It wasn't hard to find, though.

Note that if you don't have a second MAP sensor, then the MS3 gets the baro correction signal by looking at the MAP signal when it's first powered-on. This works fine so long as you don't cycle the power while the motor is running. Even there, it works mostly OK at sea level because if it gets a value outside of the expected range then it ignores it and uses 100 kpa instead.

So when I went up to Grand Junction and started getting sync errors due to a heat-soaked cam sensor, my inclination to cycle the power on the ECU while the car was rolling worked out badly...

The other option for baro correction is that, theoretically at least, you can use the stock MAP sensor in the NB. It's there for EGR control, so the resolution is too low for boost, and you might need to move some wires and pins around to feed it to an analog input, but...

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

G, like 90% of a megasquirt runs on 5v. Its everywhere.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

TPS has 5V, right? TPS has 5V and SG, I'd tap on that one.

I too dislike baro correction on a single map sensor, If you don't stray far from home I recommend setting it to a fixed value.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Answer my question in your build thread bruh</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I got you

This thread too much fun, have to check it first lol

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I need a goddamn bandsaw. I hate cutting aluminum with a cutoff wheel...with a passion.</p>

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Funny you should say so.
https://www.miataturbo.net/fabulous-...y-tools-75107/

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

that sounds like a terrible time

much win
Metal Band Saw - Horizontal/Vertical Metal Band Saw
just needs a good blade and a good setup and youre set

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Give me a month and i'll have it.</p><p>No room right now.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>****. Thats the same price as a plasma cutter.</p><p>Pass for now.</p><p>Going cl hunting soon.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I got it BNIB on CL for $150

The legs kinda suck, they are thin sheet metal, but I dont move it much, its been a great saw for $150. cutting angles isnt the best, but it was $150. did i mention it was $150?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>$150 is too much. Thats like a track day.</p><p>Deezums catch can method, with a little more documentation.</p><p>Order is as follows:</p><p>Intake mani&nbsp;-&gt; 3/8 Hose -&gt; Check valve -&gt; hose -&gt; oil seperator -&gt; hose -&gt; pcv valve -&gt; valve cover</p><p>Start by modifying the oil separator. Basically what you do is take out the bottom drain with a 5/16 allen, and then stick a spring between the plunger and the thing that screws on. I had to cut one to size, you want it strong enough to hold it closed when you try and blow through it, but light enough that you can turn the handle to open the drain.</p><p><img src="http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-144636_deezums_cheap_1_6_tries_go_fast_k79yfbx_6ce 8d2fe59941bfa8b9ea051cd0a164985371d30.jpg" title="" />&nbsp;</p><p>After you modify it you mount it. I made a simple bracket like this:</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/cO8kgjq" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148404&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a></p><p>Then you route the 3/8 hose. I'm using a straight 1/4 npt to 3/8 hose barb on one side and a 90 degree on the other. Make sure you point the check valve the right way. You want to stop air from moving from the intake manifold to the oil separator. Also make sure you have the in/out ports correct on the separator.</p><p>I'm going to clean this up with some zipties and hose clamps but then were good to go.</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/57yeJFS" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148405&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a><br /><a href="http://imgur.com/D8q5wip" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148406&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a><br /><a href="http://imgur.com/BchSf3X" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=148407&amp;dateline=14 41080373" /></a></p><p>And here it is doing catch can stuff</p><p><img src="http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-145035_deezums_cheap_1_6_tries_go_fast_4tvjfgy_772 3d1b45ed9d6f5f04b3d56dab139a56a39f4f1.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />Parts:</p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-Two-...-/310512051942</p><p>http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4...03AV/100027474</p><p>http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...rentProductId=</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p>That's a tiny reservoir yo</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Ironic. You've given me more than that for parts I've made you using that saw

Im going to do a proper catch can regardless, just wanted a quick solution for the next week or 2 so I can play. Thanks for the info, both of you.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Check valve. Do it. Serius