hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Im running 15x9 dial ins, advertised as a 73mm bore. but im confused what the wheels bores have to do with the brake centering ring?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I was planning on drawing a rotor and wheel hubcentric ring, the rotor will hold it on the spindle. I can't think of why it'd ever need to come off, and I wouldn't have to pick them out of my wheels when I rotate them.

I have 73mm bores too, why I was asking.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Sorry tommy i must have the dumbs.

Are you trying to do a stepped ring that locates both the wheel and the rotor in one peice?

How is the rotor going to hold it on the hub snout? using the generous chamfer on the backside of the "hat" part of the rotor, and then maching a lip onto the ring like some already do?? that would work, except if the answer to the above is yes, it would be impossible to install since youd be trying to slide that lip through the bore that retains it.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

In any case, i have no problem trading rings for brackets, sounds like a deal.

make me a drawing so i can see what we are talking about, ill need one anyway when i go machine stuff.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>IM BACK BITCHES.</p><p>I think my rings will fit, @relte they fit right? When I tried to put them in the mini rotor it was a very tight fit, but I assumed when I crank the rotor down it will press fit in.</p><p>If you have that much clearance then I should have tons.</p><p>PUT THEM ON THE CNC. NAOOOO</p><p>9405509699938766818006</p><p>My hawks should be in monday. how did the rears fit? SHould I order sport rear rotors? or just stock 1.8?</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, can't use a chamfer to hold the thing on since the mini bore is smaller than 73mm...

Damn. Le dumb. I guess a circlip or something would fit as my wheel bore has a slight chamfer, but that's getting too complicated for what it is.

You should be able to make a double stepped ring, right? The step depth isn't all that critical, so long as it's on the right side of the tolerances. I guess nothing would hold it on, but it would still replace two rings for one.

I measured out the rotor hub bore at 55mm, then I forgot to measure the depth before I put it all back together, lol

Anyway, more pictures.









Aidan, what's the ID of your rings measure compared to the above?

I haven't tried the rears yet, that's next.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>What was it about the .03 slop deezums?</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Whodidwhat?

With no hubcentric ring the rotor wants to fall off dragging the caliper and my plastic bracket with it. I don't have enough hands for this. My lugnuts not deep enough.

Anyway, the pad/caliper clearance picture there is with me holding the caliper flat against the bracket like it would be when bolted up square.

The slop comes from .375 bolts in 10mm hole = .393mm. Two sets of bolts = .036 of slop. If you sat and fudged it around you could likely get the caliper out a bit further or inset a tiny bit more.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p><br /></p><p>I'm out for the night. Hailey is playing forza with me and no more computer time.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I can make a double step, but if I have to unchuck and flip and rechuck, concentricity goes out the window, and parallelism to a degree. not a good idea.

draw me a pic deezums, and we can go from there.

But, I still dont understand why you are concerned about the wheels when they are lug centric?

For mine, Im just going to make a simple ring with a small lip on the backside so the rotor holds it in place. easy, simple and it will work great.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Did those help @deezums?</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Those look good Aidan, 55mm inner bore, 64.1mm outer bore. Aluminum blocks are here, too.

Wheels are lugcentric, doesn't mean I don't want them starting off as close as possible. OEM did it for a reason, I'd like to keep the feature. It makes installing wheels 100% success rate, instead of having to go back and wiggle the bitch to center it.

Plus, I want aluminum ones now.

If it's too tedious I'll just buy some 1/2" plate and mill some rings from flat stock.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<br />
<br /><br />
<br />You are doing something wrong lol
<br />Wheel on lugs. hand tighten. Impact. Torque wrench.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

My first set of brackets that I still use on my car have the pads all the way out to the outside of the rotor. I get a little lip on the pads, but no issues. Since the rotor doesn't end up with a lip I can slide pads in and out without getting them stuck. Even if you move the pad in to the edge of the chamfer you could still avoid the lip on the rotor. Moving the caliper in will give you 0.020-30" more wheel clearance.

Looks like you have more than enough clearance already so the little bit extra clearance will be nice, but is not a must have in order for these brackets to fit your wheels.

Since my original brackets I moved the pads in a little so that they just get to the edge of the chamfer. EO2K might be able to post some pictures of his installed setup, I am pretty sure his had the pad sit on the edge of the chamfer like the S10 pic above.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

EDIT Double post

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

They should fit, I test fitted them on my hubs before I shipped them. They should be a very slight press fit. I make them just tight enough that they cannot fall out. My old track wheels had huge centers>>75mm that would allow a loose fitting ring to fall out. I got a set of centering rings with the dial-ins that were a little loose but ended up making them a slight press fit by hitting it with 8 punch marks on the OD. This results in just enough high spots that it was a nice even press fit and would not fall out. After you tighten the wheels down it stays put.

You could use the same process to keep your stepped rings from falling out. I made similar stepped centering rings for my brother's FFR cobra and it worked great to center the rotor and wheels.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p></p><p>Fits. Again, about .245&quot; of clearance with the caliper sitting on the rotor. Spacers would probably increase that by another .25&quot;</p>

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

I knew there was I reason I did not do it that way. It sucks though, it would have been a real nice and clean solution that would not easily get stripped! If you can cut the pockets like you had on the printed brackets it would still work.

I used these guys for bar stock in the past. Cheapest I could find. $12.50 per foot. Well worth it when you make more brackets. You can check out their website stockcarsteel.com too. You can also email them or message on ebay and they will do a custom lengths for you.

6061 T6 Aluminum Flat Bar 1" x 2 1 2" x 48" Long 1" x 2 5" 6061 Flat Bar | eBay

That looks real good. That is more than enough clearance, even if you move the caliper out you should still have >0.200" clearance to the wheel.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

this, except the impact wrench part

deezums- ill be glad to give it a go, just let me know

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>My electric impact doesn't do ****. I just buzz em on till it hits once and then torque by hand.</p>