deezums

iTrader: (3)

Hell yeah, looks good.

So they work, eh? Nice!

I just drove a mini pretty aggressively tonight, I ******* love the brakes on that car. This the same stuff, with better calipers. Hope it's the same or better.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

One side does. One "issue". The holes in the ear are a hair too far apart. Which makes bolting the e caliper to the bracket a little harder, and you have to be extra careful not to cross thread.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Well that filled up fast
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<br />

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

How much clearance do you have under the 15x8's?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Miles. My feeler gauges are god knows where so I can't give you something exact but its much more than .125

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Guys, these are seriously sex. I'm putting together my rear brakes and then will go test them. But they look so badass.</p><p>What better test than a track day at a new track tomorrow?</p><p>Question.</p><p>How do I adjust the brake pedal height? Lengthen the pushrod? Don't I risk making the brakes drag like this?</p>

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

Can you adjust the brake pedal? I don't think it has an adjustable pushrod like the clutch does.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I'm pretty sure you can. Currently at the bottom of travel it is too low to heel-toe.</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I think the slight misalignment on the brackets might be because I tapped the holes by hand.

We just converted the mill from mach3 to Tormach's own control system and I didn't feel like tapping in the machine to make things faster for me.

I need brakes. I halfheartedly gravity bled my calipers while I wait on new brake lines. It is le-sponge.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Mine feel sex. @turbofan can confirm.</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Them are dc-10's or whatever shitty stock wilwood pad right?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I have both. Going to drive it tonight on the BP-10's. I have DTC-60's for tomorrow.</p><p>Nvm, don't want to change pads twice. GOing straight to DTC-60s.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Aidan strikes again.&nbsp;</p><p>Tried bleeding the front brakes with the rear caliper dangling.</p><p>Piston not in caliper anymore</p><p>Piston back in caliper</p><p>**** dust boot, in trash</p><p>Can't find new pad hardware.</p><p>*** life.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Can I run without the pad hardware? It will rattle, but maybe work?</p><p>My cobalts rattled like a bitch because they didn't have hardware that worked with them.</p><p>Spec miata says yes. But that doesnt always mean yes.</p>

greddygalant

iTrader: (3)

You can, it will rattle, I run cobalts without hardware, don't be a bitch

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Cobalts are built to be run without hardware. Or at least the 1.6 ones are. They don't fit with hardware.</p><p>Brakes are going back on. System is dry so this will be a fun bleed.</p><p>Special order for bleeding a dry system?</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Gravity assist, then go after it with a helper or a pedal prop stick. I don't know if my car is fucked or what, but my lines gravity bleed easy peasy.

Did you let the master run dry, I imagine it took a nice swig of brake fluid when it popped.

Bummer man, I've come close to doing the same before.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I could bring my baggie of brake hardware to AR tomorrow if you want to rifle through it.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Didnt realize it was popped until my gf said that one didnt have any pressure, and i heard trickling around back.</p><p>Guess hawks werent meant to have hardware either. Tried them on the side with hardware and i couldn't get them to fit lol.</p><p>No problems anymore. Going to order a rockauto caliper and replace this one soon. The dust boot was torn up anyways.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p></p><p>Thanks for the offer, but the track day is tomorrow. Leaving this evening for hood river after the seahawks game.</p><p>Sometime this week maybe though, need some for the street pads.</p>