curly

iTrader: (25)

So when's the SADfab turbo kit come out? You've gotta compete with MKTurbo, so I'm guessing it'll be in the ~$20 range?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Were shooting for $10.

Lol. A turbo kit isn't something we are interested in. Too many good options in the market. I'll be building a manifold or 2 in case anyone wants a low mount, but no kit.

codrus

You're going for a supercharger kit instead?

--Ian

glade

iTrader: (2)

I'd buy a sadfab rotrex mount!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Looks broken.

Stop screwing around and make a T5 kit so I can paypal you happy monies. Me wanna.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The pyrex cup is weird.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ebay life

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Here is what I have so far compared to wittyworks. I couldn't have done it without his jig. Working on the bench makes life so much easier than trying to do it all in the car.

So far I have managed to eliminate 4 extra welds, and a couple small pieces. But I still don't know if I'm going to be able to get the collector to all fit together perfectly yet. Need to take a break and build a megasquirt though.

Wittyworks:







Mine:

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Shoutout to @farpolemiddle thanks to his deal finding I may have some valve train upgrades which I had previously decided against because of budget.

Will know more for sure.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ordering fluids from amsoil.

Going to get assembly lube and then enough break in oil.

Do I just use break in oil once? and then switch to rotella? Or should I use something in in the middle?

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

BR30 straight to your regular oil. When possible, we try to drive the motor for a few days on BR30 then switch to race oil before we dyno it or take it to the track.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ok perfect. So BR30, put some miles on it, then switch to regular oil for dyno/track?

Any waiting period before synthetic?

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Our "regular" oil is synthetic. For us it's BR30 to whatever syn we are running in that engine. The street cars with cats get Amsoil 10w30 OE (OET) for the high mileage cars, Sig series (ATM) for the new engines. 10w30 Dominator (RD30) race oil for the engines without cats including the race cars.
Race oil has a lot more zinc (good) which kills catalytic converters.

The only instance where we ran dino oil briefly, as you mentioned, was a race engine in a street car that we didn't have time to adequately break in before dyno. So we drove it for a few days on BR30, switched to dino oil just for the dyno tuning then filled with race oil right after. I don't thinks its a good idea to dyno on BR30. That's not what that oil is designed for.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info. Helps a lot.

Just to clarify, what is your "few days of driving"

Break in miles? Commute to work?

I could easily do 60 miles before work for a couple days, varying rpm on the backroads. Then switch to rotella/dominator (my go to synthetic with zinc).

No cat because racekarz.

Is engine "break in" a scientific number. Like are you looking for a certain condition? Compression, vaccum numbers, etc. Or is it more of a personal preference/experience thing.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

I'm sure there are detailed science based parameters. I have no idea what those might be.
- I drive it a day or two.
- Try not to let it idle much.
- More heat cycles is better but make sure it's fully warm for a bit before shutting it off. IOW, don't get it half warm then shut it off overnight. Getting it hot burns off all the volatiles and lets the oil do its job.
- Try to vary load. Sitting at one RPM droning on the freeway for an hour is pointless.
- Gradually raise rev limit from half of intended redline for the first 20 minutes to 1000rpm shy of redline by the end of break in before it hits the dyno.
- I don't apply WOT for the first 20 minutes. By the time it's had 30-45 min on it I'll start briefly applying full load but at reduced redline.
- So short shift part throttle at first then progress incrementally to WOT to just shy of redline by end of break in
- I'll only touch redline briefly once or twice just as break in is completed. This is more systems check than break in. Save hard trips to the redline for it's first dyno/tuning session after it has non-break in oil in it.

If the engine is built right, it will burn almost no oil and should not smoke during break in. BP's will be fully broken in after 3-4 hrs, during which time the power will increase by 1-3%.

Two break in locations for us
Street: Canyon road where I can gently load and unload at medium rpm for a while. It loops back through the city so I can stop at intersections and accelerate through the gears again.
Race: Go kart track we rent for $40 for a few hours. Drive around at low rpm then over the period of about 2 hrs gradually increase redline and load. Stopping a few times to check fluids.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Awesome.

I have plenty of backroads around my house that will be perfect for this.

Thanks a bunch.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

That post should be stickied/in its own thread btw. Great info.

codrus

I suspect the only people to have broken in enough engines to have scientific data on the process are OEMs, and they don't really seem to care all that much. Probably F1 and NASCAR teams, but they're not talking.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Well it's official. Picked up a head today with super tech singles, and a sub conversion. Was not planning on building a head, but could not pass on this deal.

I will probably need some new lash caps, and valve stem seals. But it will be another fun learning experience to put together a head.