aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Ok brake stuff. Just got my pads in. And measured how far the caliper needs to move up.</p><p>With the caliper sitting on the rotor, there is .1&quot; from the top of the pad to the top of the rotor. But the top of the rotor has a slight taper to it, so where exactly do I want the top of the pad to be? All my other rotors get a little ring around the top where the pad was just below the outer surface.</p><p>If so then the caliper should just move like .05&quot; up the rotor and I should have .2&quot; of clearance to my wheel.</p><p>Deezums. When you get your BP-10s installed in the caliper, set the caliper on the rotor, and see how much you have to move the caliper up off the rotor to get the pad flush, or just take this measurement:</p><p><br /></p><p>Stupid pile of junk I have to sort through.</p><p></p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

They should really be right up to the edge.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Stock mini doesn't run them right up to the edge. There's a good 1-2mm lip on these worn rotors I have.

The stock mini caliper might have more clearance out there though. You really, really never want there to be contact there...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Look at the taper on the rotor, where do we put the pads in relation to that?</p><p>Did you take that measurement.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Ive seen it both ways on OEM brakes.

If thats the way it is fine, but we are designing custom brackets, why wouldnt we optimize this?

reasons why this matters:
- doenst leave a lip that could possibly damage new pads during a swap, especially troublesome if you swap at the track every track day.
- when there is a ring of unused friction material, it stays cooler than the rest causing a temp differential across the friction surface leading to more cracking and earlier rotor failure. This is documented in ogracing's brake thread.
- more leverage, adn therefore brake torque, although thats probably going to be negligible, but looks good on paper.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

its called a chamfer, go right up to where the chamfer starts, or maybe even overhang it just a bit to account for rotor wear.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Ok, that would cause a lip. Because as the rotor wears away, the chamfer will now be the ring around teh edge.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

jut edited a few thing, make sure you got the most recent version lol

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I'm on the fence about this.</p><p>I don't want uneven pad wear, the chamfer is about .03&quot; deep. Wonder how long that would take to wear away.</p><p>So many decisions</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I would run it right to the edge of the rotor if it were me. Thats how I design the S10 brakes. 100+ happy customers


pic is shitty, but the pad overhangs the taper to the edge of the rotor

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p></p><p>Understatement of the year.</p><p>Alright, well we will see where the 3d printed brackets put the caliper.</p><p>@deezums hurry your **** up.</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Muy sexy



It appears the pad is set flush with the chamfer. That is, if the chamfer were .030, the pad is .030 inside the diamater of the rotor.

There's slop in bolt holes and flex on my plastic bracket that would make up that .030. Wearing past .030 chamfer is probably past rotor life, right? That would be .060 total rotor wear, 1.5mm.

I'm tempted to run like this, I've got clearance, kinda.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah, the hub bore is stepped and my spacers don't fit. I need to measure that. Is everyone else's hub the same?

My plans for studs was retarded, I have no idea what I was thinking. The rotor must be on before the caliper, the caliper can not slip over studs in the bracket. Major brain fart.

It would work on the spindle side, but there's plenty of meat there.

Good thing I had you order 1" stock Aidan.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Tommy do i need to send you material or anything for mine? what do i need to do once we get the design hashed out?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

better pic aidan?




circa 2011 EVO 4g FTW

deezums

iTrader: (3)

For now I had Aiden order one of these off ebay since he's up my butt to get it done. I'm not sure when I'll be back to KC when the weather will be right for me to bring back a stick of aluminum.

2 Pieces 1" x 2 1 2" Aluminum 6061 Flat Bar 8" Long T6511 Solid Plate Mill Stock | eBay

Now that I don't have spacers I was going to try and talk you into turning me some, trade?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Clearance?

Would remove wheel weights, them are 1/8" tall. Spacers won't buy me much. Would you run it?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Ok cool, as you know im in absolutely no hurry, i just thought you guys were going ahead without me when i saw that comment.

which spacers are you talking about, you mean hub rings?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

its hard to tell from the pics, but from what i can see, id track the **** out of that clearance

edit- do the weights just squeak by? if they do *** yea, if not, id measure stuff.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I can make some but I'd have to figure out how to take the collet nose off this lathe and attach the drawbar chuck mess. I don't think the collet chuck has been off since the 80's, lol. I'd rather avoid it if I can, not even my machine.

The 54.1 to 64.1 hub rings I ordered don't fit.



After digging through rust, I found a stepped hub bore. The rotor uses a larger than 54.1mm bore, not sure what just yet.

Do your wheels use a 73mm bore too?

I too am considering running as is. All the track time I see I'm sure it'll be fine lol