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Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap

Old 10-06-2015, 07:40 PM
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Rotor coning when hot?
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:42 PM
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Wait for pictures guys. The caliper isn't centered on the rotor, and I should have noticed it. I think it comes with the territory of running rotors that are "technically" too thick.

Good thing is. Steel vs Aluminum, steel wins. Bad thing is. Now nobody will want to buy these when I want to get the red ones.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:42 PM
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Suggestion: Good.

Implementation: BAD.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:43 PM
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The only thing I cut was the headline to the clutch master.
Everything else should be 100% intact.
The only things I haven't gotten yet are the front spindles.
I'll get them Friday morning.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:48 PM
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I don't need front spindles. I just need the sensors.

But you can probably sell those spindles for $$$
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:50 PM
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Will probably just clean up and use control arms and all on my car.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:51 PM
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Spindles have the sensor mounts in them, do they not? I believe they are required. I still have one of the spindles of Ed's MSM and thats where the sensor mounts. That's specifically why I wanted the spindles.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:51 PM
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Yes but I have an NA. So I need NA spindles. This is an NB parts car.

Use NB subframes. Better bumpsteer characteristicks or some ****.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:54 PM
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You sure they don't interchange? I was under the impression that they did but you are probably more up on the NA/NB interchange stuff than I am
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:55 PM
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They do interchange. At the "cost" of 5mm more track width. I already have NA rear spindles. and 1 NA front spindle. So the extra 5mm of track on one wheel would get screwy.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:22 PM
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IIRC NA/NB upper ball joints are different. You need NB front upper control arms to run NB spindles.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:23 PM
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Thank you. Either way don't currr. As I already have 3 out of the 4 necessary spindles.
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
I will take better pictures tonight.

Fade showed up a bit. But never as much as before. I need to try it at PIR. Where I know the braking zones. MRLS was all new to me.

Do you have any air ducted to the front brakes?
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:33 PM
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So... You need both spindles?
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:43 PM
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I need no spindles
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:16 PM
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for front spindles the upright has to match the upper A arm gen. For rear spindles everything goes together but NB makes for a 5mm wider track (or is it 5mm per side?). Also, NBs have different bump steer geometry.
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:59 PM
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Electricians. or internet electricians. how does my 10-50 to 6-50 conversion cord look? will it kill me? or more importantly my welder? or will it work



Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-uwpnshv.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-klywe2j.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-krtdxtg.jpg  
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:10 AM
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Got impatient. It worked



Now new question. Can I run this air compressor motor off this outlet? And when you say now, how much of a no? burn the house down? Or just pop the breaker a few times.


Attached Thumbnails Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-0jghswx.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-qa5txtr.jpg   Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap-3cde4wa.jpg  
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Old 10-07-2015, 01:27 AM
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probably not to code, but if that cable is good enough for my dryer it's good enough to weld with.

I did the same thing, handy tool for finding weld power near any dryer.

I believe the other outlet is a 15/20A 220, I would not try to run the compressor on that but it shouldn't burn a house down, if it's to code. You won't be running it on it if it's too small, it will pop every time it tries to start. I'd check the wire gauge behind the plate if you are super worried.
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Old 10-07-2015, 01:56 AM
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Its 12 gauge. I'll give it a shot. If not I'll upgrade the wiring.
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