concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Been looking like $150 for just the injectors these days. Then the stuff to use them. Still not bad, but i was just excited for a minute.

Worth mentioning that i expect my RX8s to take me to 250whp without any real hassle.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Dang. I thought I was seeing sets of 8 for like 200. Might have been other ones. Curly wasn't laz at like 225 on rx8s?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I can find sets of 8 for about $240. But then you still need the adapting stuffs.

Still worth it, but not enough for me to want to come up from RX8s just yet.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Same idea here. Good deal but not worth ditching the rx8s. Wish I had gotten them in the first place though.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Haha, yeah me too. If the RX8's keep going up in price as they are I might just be able to get those ev14s at a draw

I could have sworn I paid less than $30 bucks an injector for brand new ones. They seem to be over $40 now.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Yep, if i had any of the tuning issues you guys were talking about, i'd upgrade, but.... i don't. Car idles rock steady, even as lean as 16:1 if i want. Hot restarts not a problem.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I haven't had any actually running issues. They idle fine even when they go lean on restart. And the extra ase has helped.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Any ideas on the EBC guys?

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

To finish out the Yellow Top conversation. Yellow tops work fine for modest goals, but for a guy starting out fresh, the GT500's seem a better way to go.

I think only BEGI can get 250whp out of them, though

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

Nice build so far. You asked about painting options several pages back. Have you made a decision on how you are going to paint?
I'd suggest option 2. I got everything at TCP Global - Quality & Service Since 1974 on the recommendation of a m.net forum member and was really happy. Professional quality paint, cheap spray guns you can hook up to your bad *** compressor, and everything else you need to do the job. You can probably get all paint and materials for well under $500.
They also have a tech support line you can call in with questions like "if the paint is in good shape, do I need to use primer" or "what do I need to clean out my spray guns".

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'm moving back to my home town next summer, and will have a better garage and work area. Thats when I'll decide whether to paint it myself or pay someone. I also want to find a hardtop before I repaint.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

it doesnt
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...9/#post1193050

did you already get a replacement?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Just saw that. I scored 2 red fenders for 250 from a junkyard in Seattle. There might be pictures a couple pages back.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Still getting boost oscillations. Seems like I've tried every combination of P and I there is. I need to find someone to go out with me because trying to change stuff while driving is not fun.

Other news:

Engine has been using up oil way too fast. This confused me for a while until I decided to check under the turbo.



You can't really tell from this picture but I guess I forgot to tighten the oil drain flange. There was oil everywhere down there. Hopefully this fixes my oil loss problems otherwise I will be sad.

Also blatantly copied lazarus' hood prop (or lack of) because I got tired of using a piece of wood to keep it up (and I lost the hood prop somehow).



Next plans are:

Seats + back brace
6pt driver+passenger
Install new springs
Drive
Track
Break

I think I'm going to try some of the VHT ceramic coat on the manifold. They make it in white and it would match my engine.

Also purchased some locking downpipe bolts from stage 8.

Can someone explain to me how a stud can back out from a flange when there is a locking nut on the other end of it? I can't wrap my head around how the stud could twist up into the nut if the nut is already tightened down to where the threads on the stud end.

Oh and I found a spare turbo just like mine on CL for 30 bucks. Now it is mine.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

For some reason EBC just worked today. No idea what changed.

Here is what basic gave me:



Then I switched to advanced. I did like 30 pulls and am really starting to figure it out. I think this one needs more I though. Boost target is 170kpa.



Also found this today. Cracked steering wheel hub from ebay:



Are name brand hubs actually better? Or did I just get unlucky with this ebay hub.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I can't really tell what we are looking at there, but yes and yes.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Cracked Ebay Steering wheel hub. Post edited.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Oh, i thought it was a wheel hub, that's why it looked funny to me lol. Ignore my comment as I don't know **** about steering hubs.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

And my post in I want your spool data:

Engine: '92 1/6L
Turbo: Volvo TD04HL-15g
Manifold: Custom flowish log
Downpipe Size/Style: 3 inch
Exhaust Size: 2.5 inch.
Exhaust Components: Corksport drift exhaust
Intercooler Core Size: 27"x5.5"x2.5"
Intake Manifold: Stock
Headwork: Stock
Engine Management: Megasquirt MS3+MS3x
Other Spoolin' Helpers/Hurters: Toyota COPs, RX8 injectors, EBC
Trans & Rear End Ratio: 5-speed, 4.1 LSD
Rear tire size: 205/50-15

FOURTH GEAR PULL:

RPM Boost(psi)
2250 4.3
2300 4.4
2400 4.5
2500 5.2
2600 6.0
2700 6.8
2800 7.7
2900 8.7
3000 9.5
3100 10.4
3200 10.8
3300 11.4
3400
3500
3600
3700

Closed loop EBC started about 3000 rpms and peaked at 11 psi. My target is 170kpa. Rest will be filled in when I turn up the boost.

Log attached (yes, it was my 45th ebc pull of the evening)

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Needs a little more I or slightly less P to get rid of the wave early on. You may be overshooting your target so either lower P or add I to clean up the oscillation and P will be less effective as a result. So close to a nice flat boost curve. Props for sticking with it