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Old 10-26-2015, 02:11 AM   #4801
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$41

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Old 10-26-2015, 11:50 AM   #4802
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Schuyler found a deal on used pistons that I might be considering. 200+shipping for a 99 block, crank and supertech 8.6:1.

Kills 2 birds with 1 stone. The keyway on my VVT crank is not perfect. I don't know exactly how bad it is but a new crank would be ****. Also gives me a new block to replace the questionable VVT block I have now. But on the other hand its used pistons, and a seller that I don't know.
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Old 10-26-2015, 01:56 PM   #4803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Schuyler found a deal on used pistons that I might be considering. 200+shipping for a 99 block, crank and supertech 8.6:1.

Kills 2 birds with 1 stone. The keyway on my VVT crank is not perfect. I don't know exactly how bad it is but a new crank would be ****. Also gives me a new block to replace the questionable VVT block I have now. But on the other hand its used pistons, and a seller that I don't know.

If it's from who I think it is, I can vouch for the seller (PM me if you want).
Edit: And if you don't I probably will...
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Old 10-26-2015, 02:14 PM   #4804
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I'm going to pass on them. Not ready to build the motor, and have too many other things going on right now.

Check it out. $11 thermocouple for EGT.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251997239125
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:00 PM   #4805
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Pistons on a car you're going to drive on a racetrack- I'm going to recommend you buy them new. Buying used forged pistons to install in something that you're going to race seems like a reallyyyyyyy bad idea. Fatigue life being the big factor, you just don't know what a used piston has been through (temps, pressures, detonation, etc).
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:04 PM   #4806
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Point taken. But I'm going to put them through the same torture.

Well see. I already decided a built motor isn't in the budget right now, and while it was a decent deal. It wasn't perfect.
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:05 PM   #4807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Pistons on a car you're going to drive on a racetrack- I'm going to recommend you buy them new. Buying used forged pistons to install in something that you're going to race seems like a reallyyyyyyy bad idea. Fatigue life being the big factor, you just don't know what a used piston has been through (temps, pressures, detonation, etc).
Or be like Soviet and get some used pistons, then push 400whp with E85 on them.

I am in the in the new pistons bunch. You can get a set of supertech's for about $400 shipped. Honestly that is not to expensive. Especially when you start factoring in the machine shop costs that come along with building a motor.
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:19 PM   #4808
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Quote:
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Point taken. But I'm going to put them through the same torture.

Well see. I already decided a built motor isn't in the budget right now, and while it was a decent deal. It wasn't perfect.
Well if you detonate a new piston till it breaks and destroys your motor, you'll know you did it and it was your fault.

If you install used pistons and the first time you make 251.4 HP, cylinder 3 piston breaks a ring landing because the previous owner all but erased the fatigue life of that piston through a crappy tune that blew a head gasket (why the engine was torn down and used forged pistons now for sale). Made up example, but what I'm saying is you can't see a difference by looking at it whether it's fine, or about to crack due to fatigue.

Pretty much anything else in a motor I'd be a lot more comfortable buying used. Rods, crank, block, oil pump, all those before pistons.
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:18 PM   #4809
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Thats why I'm going to pass. If it was local. And I could scoop it all up for $200 I probably already would have. Add in the shipping hassle and cost and it adds up. A spare crank would be nice though.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:30 PM   #4810
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Why can't I find a part number for the VVT intake cam seal? Is it something special to do with VVT?

Found it. thxby

ZL09-10-602
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:39 PM   #4811
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How often does Soviet drive his car?

How often does Soviet track his car?

Buy new pistons when you're ready to build. My opinion.
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:56 PM   #4812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
Buy new


Looks like a rod knocked VVT motor will also be joining me in the garage soon. Along with a 14k mile VVT motor (not for me).
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:13 PM   #4813
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Pistons are like condoms -- buy them new.

--Ian
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:16 PM   #4814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Pistons are like condoms -- buy them new.

--Ian


Sig'd
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:00 PM   #4815
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Dinner was epic. Chicken panini with a bacon weave. Pesto, avocado, spinach, cheese and peppers.




Traded this for my NB seats



This is why you can't use the stock bulkhead. Going to pick up a spare fuel pump unit to practice on. Anyone know what metal this is?


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Old 10-26-2015, 11:02 PM   #4816
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looks like cadmium plated steel.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:07 PM   #4817
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Nice. That looks toxic when welded.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:10 PM   #4818
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yes, all of it must be ground off. And lol good luck with getting a water tight weld.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:10 PM   #4819
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Yeah, cadmium. I dunno why it turns purple, but mine is even more so. Don't weld it with the cadmium still on there, that's not something you want to breathe.

You can take the cadmium off with pool acid.



--Ian
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:16 PM   #4820
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I think I'm overthinking this. I did more googling.

Max amperage I could ever use is 21.91 amps. And thats at 128psi, at which point the pump wouldn't flow at all...




Max amperage for 16 gauge wiring is either 20amps, or 22amps for short runs. Depending on who you ask.

Wire Capacity Chart

American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength

So I'm going to run 12 gauge right up to the bulkhead connector. And then stop worrying about it and worry about how to control the stupid amount of fuel I now have
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