Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
06-20-2015, 04:00 PM
#1621
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<p>The last thing I want to do is pull the diff again. I'll wait until I rebuild the axles, and get lower delrin bushings.</p>
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06-20-2015, 04:05 PM
#1622
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When using seal stuff like that, you coat it on, and mate the parts, but only enough to touch. Don't torque them down. Give the seal stuff (Permatex Black sounds like a good choice) time to cure a bit, and then torque it down. Otherwise, you squeeze most of it out and it has nothing between the surfaces.
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06-20-2015, 04:07 PM
#1623
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<p>Yeah, thats what the instructions say, and exactly what I didn't do. I'll re-do it at some point. There is no puddle and the car has been parked for 2 days so I'm not that worried. I'll keep a bottle of diff fluid handy.</p>
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06-20-2015, 04:09 PM
#1624
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<p>Also, just hit 7k on the turbo. By the end of the summer I should have over 10k. I have some daily commuting, a bunch of track days, and at least 1 maybe 2 trips to thunderhill (1000mi round trip)</p>
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06-20-2015, 04:43 PM
#1629
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How to remove exhaust soot stains without a steam cleaner.(sorry didn't see your post earlier)
These two options are under the assumption the paint is clean otherwise GG paint.
Slightly more expensive than free method
1) Clay Bar. Wax after to fill the paint's pores.
Cheap as **** and don't care about scratches
2) 100% undiluted Purple Power Degreaser, don't let it dry and use a microfiber towel to lightly scrub the soot build up off. Make sure you use wax on paint after done to add some moisture to the paint.
These two options are under the assumption the paint is clean otherwise GG paint.
Slightly more expensive than free method
1) Clay Bar. Wax after to fill the paint's pores.
Cheap as **** and don't care about scratches
2) 100% undiluted Purple Power Degreaser, don't let it dry and use a microfiber towel to lightly scrub the soot build up off. Make sure you use wax on paint after done to add some moisture to the paint.
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</p>
06-20-2015, 04:48 PM
#1631
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If a clay bar or purple power doesn't work the paint has been charred. I can clean off 90% of the soot on my bumper but there is areas that are "cooked".
Also in the "**** you paint" category that works stupendously good, is Magic Erasers.
It puts the wax on the paint or it doesn't get the parts again!
Also in the "**** you paint" category that works stupendously good, is Magic Erasers.
It puts the wax on the paint or it doesn't get the parts again!
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06-20-2015, 08:58 PM
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As for the nozzles, I've never had a problem putting either the 100 or 91 octane nozzles at Thunderhill into the filler neck in my NB. It did overflow once, but that was before Mazda did the recall for filler neck burping problems, so that's probably why. They had a fairly primitive gravity-flow, non-vapor-recovery filler system at that point.
They also sell 110-ish leaded race gas, perhaps that's the one that won't fit in your NA? Back when they first switched from leaded to unleaded and you could buy both at normal gas stations, the leaded pump nozzles were larger than the unleaded car filler necks.
What group are you going to Thunderhill with?
--Ian
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06-21-2015, 03:19 AM
#1637
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<p>Dug into the auction car. Cut off the front core support unplugged what I could see. Decided I wanted to try and drop the subframe and motor together.</p><p>Here is where I got to. Subframe is dropped, motor is still in the car.....am I missing something? I hope I just forgot to unhook something because it wiggles around but it wont drop any further than this. Also, some pics of the motor. Timing covers and oil pump is toast, but so far the block looks good.</p><p>
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06-21-2015, 08:13 AM
#1638
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Once the subframe is dropped, the PPF needs to come out, and then it'll drop away. But it should do that with the diff gone. There's 1 fuel line, a few ground straps, and the engine harness has 2 plugs to disconnect it. Then it's just throttle cable and heater hose. You're most likely hung up on some mangled piece of metal.
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06-21-2015, 11:52 AM
#1640
On an NA, there's a ground strap near the brake reservoir and then another near the diff on the PPF. They're not strong though. If you tension against them, they usually pull apart easily.
It really sounds like you're hung-up on some metal like curly said. Crow bar and or sawzall should cure it.
It really sounds like you're hung-up on some metal like curly said. Crow bar and or sawzall should cure it.
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