Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

I am splitting this off from my BFMR/Mazda 323 GTX build thread, because I find it easier too separate them out.

The car's name is Akiko.

I decided to buy an NC while they were still cheap in order to get back into actually driving and not just building cars.
It had been 18 years since I last did an autox, and that was a Legacy rally car on Acroplis-spec ancient Pirelli gravel tires in Virginia. It was fun for me, but reminded me about autistic autox and how unpleasant it was at the time.
The last track event I had done was a 24-hour ice race on the Bath River in Maine in a Sentra SE-R back in 2004, so it had also been a long time. In the 90s I had raced ITS and did a ton of autox, mostly Chicago Region and Reno.

Then, a friend—and member here—kind of pushed me back into it, and I am having a great time obsessing again.

So here is the thread on the car, and my **** driving:

I bought a 125k mile 2006, Marble White, Sport. It was a 6-speed, LSD, cloth interior car with Goodwin revalved Ohlins (which went back the original owner), a D&G hardtop, no soft top, a quite nice roll bar, a Prgoress front sway with Racing Beat end links, RX* front hubs, EBC Yellow pads, and pristine, ancient Nexen Sur4G on 17x9 Enkei Kojins.

One of the recurring themes of this build will be the absolutely **** customer service most Miata vendors have, with one huge exception: Supermiata.

So here it is when I bought it:

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

As I got it, with half a tank of gas:



The first issue was getting the ABS to work. The left rear wheel speed sensor was way to far away from the tone ring, and had been broken as it was tightened down.A new collar, and eventually a new sensor along with a comprehensive clean of the hole and mounting boss got it working again.





I had made fun of NCs with the best of them, but everyone I had driven was basically stock or with swaybars. Holy hell a good suspension transforms it.

They have a lot of nice attention to detail; very Mazda.



I replaced the radiator with a CSF (on big sale from Turn14) and the expansion tank with a Moroso, bought from Goodwin.

And here is where I rant about Goodwin:
They make a decent product, generally. They ship quickly. They are sometimes the only game in town.
But their communication is absolutely dreadful. I never got them on the phone. I never got a response to an email with technical questions. I never got estimated ETAs on parts drop shipped. Literally not one single communication outside of the automated emails when an order was placed, despite me attempting multiple times to contact them by every means they show as available.
Update:
There has been an uptick in communication. Ryan has been excellent, and they were proactive on an anticipated delay with a part I ordered. It definitely makes me feel better.

Radiator:

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

I decide to throw caution to the wind and buy a seat that was guaranteed to be too small for me. Bizarelly, it fits perfectly, I pass a broomstick test, and I find it very comfortable. I have driven 4-5 hours in it at a stretch.

The Sparco QRT-R on scratch and dent from Turn14:





Then I bought some real tires, and wheels that weighed less than 20lbs: Enkei RPF1 and 255 RT-660, from the Tire Rack (which I am a dealer off):






Much fender rolling ensued. The car is ostensibly an STR car, and that is what I am building it for. It is not legal, however, because of the removed softtop because of the rollbar. I am NEVER going to be fast enough to challenge nationally or at a Tour, so I'll live with it. Or maybe I'll build this into an XS-B car..

Here is that rollbar:




I had my body guy do a quickie spray of the bare white gel coat top. Good enough for a race car. I also can't find any Lexan for a new rear window...

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

I hate the NC taillight, so I used a can of VHT red tint and just spray bombed them. I suck at painting, as I have no patience for it, but these are ok. And I much prefer the look.





The I swapped the header for the GWR 1.8 and the race rear muffler with the HH chamber. Sounds great.






It fits reasonably well, although it just kisses the engine mount bracket. I also extended the primary AFR sensor wires, and eliminated the rear O2. I did this because I purchased an EcuTek tune from FAB9.

And here is rant number 2: FAB9 has been a disaster.
Their communication sucks, as soon as they got my money. It took weeks longer than claimed to get the product, and the tune was wrong, as well as requiring multiple phone calls and emails everyday to actually get things, like them to purchase flash credits for me to actually use the tune. The PCI seat brace I ordered from them and then canceled when I had no communication FOR TWO WEEKS, showed up two days later ( a day after they promised to refund me), and they were surprised and didn't offer to take it back, or allow me to return it. The flash provided also did not have RaceRom enabled (which I paid for) but did have auto blip (which I had specifically asked to have NOT enabled). That was fun at an autox when I wasn't expecting it. They eventually got the tune right, but I have been very leery of trying for a touchup. It's a shame because the tune is quite good. It has much better throttle response, noticeably more power, etc...

So I handed the original owner back his (mediocre) revolved and oversprung Ohlins, and installed a new set of stock valved Ohlins (TR rocks!). The lack of rear travel is comical, so I ordered a set of 8/5 springs, spherical rear upper bearings, and low profile/long travel rear cups from MiataSpeed/SakeBomb/FP, which theoretically I am a dealer of. It certainly increased rear travel, and makes a noticeable difference, but it still is not optimal. The car is very nice with this damping/spring rate setup of the ECS I run as wet tires, and I'm generally pretty happy with it for street and wet. But for the dry it is under sprung, and the lack of travel is a real issue, especially checking it on roads we run for hillclimbs.

And here is rant #3:
SakeBomb/MiataSpeed are very nice, but the front of the house is utterly incompetent. Getting a straight answer, anything shipped in a timely fashion, or vendor discounts applied reliably and consistently was functionally impossible. Nice parts, quite good technical support, great packing, but just disorganized, slow, and bizarrely clueless. *I am being overly cranky*

Edit: I’d like to emphasize that the MiataSpeed parts are really nice and do exactly what they were described as doing. I’m extremely happy with them, and think they went a long way towards fixing some of the inherent issues with the Ohlins in the NC/RX8. I like them enough I am recommending them to customers.
With the caveat of frustrating interactions being a possibility on the ordering and shipping side.

Edit 2: MiataSpeed reached out to me to understand my frustration. We had an excellent and productive talk that reminds me why I have chosen to do business with them and will continue to do so. They acknowledge they need to work on customer communication, advertising, and general front of the house activities.
I want to emphasize: they are NOT in the same league as Fab9Tuning. At all. Frustrating as opposed to appalling. But they seem to genuinely care about customer feedback and experience.

Edit3:
MiataSpeed/Sakebomb are working very hard to make me happy, which probably isn’t worth the effort for them given my volume, but is very appreciated. I have come away happier, although they still have the same issues many vendors do.
The end result of this?
I have a set of NC Xidas on order (HURRY UP ED). This was not the first time I've used SM/949, but Ed is great, and answers questions, is realistic, and helpful. Also super fast shipping.

The MS/SB parts:




You will also note the SM rear end links: I installed a stock NC bar I had in the shop. Balance is good.

But the 255 RT660 wasn't a good match. I should have paid more attention, and gone with a 245... so I ordered A052s, and sold the functionally unused RT660s. Also mounted 255 ECS on the Kojins as wets.

Here are the 245 A052 and 255 RT660 side by side:

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

So then I went to my first autox in 18 years, and my wife's first ever, she in her VVT/6MT swapped NA8. She is a hell of a team manager for rally cars, but had never driven in anger. I'm not sure she has ever driven in anger even now, but she had a blast and is thoroughly hooked.

It was forecast to be wet. In retrospect I should have had the A052s on.




I didn't fully embarrass myself, and really was hooked again, so I did some minor cleanup work, and then went to an enduro in Dallesport with NWAA. There were 12 cars, and it was run after run after run. I think the one guy (who did nothing but run, for shame) got over 60 runs.

Two things I did between events:

Cut grooves in the inscrutable factory dipstick, which makes it incredibly easy to check the oil



And installed my data acquisition, which I am actually playing with for familiarity with a remote sensing project I am doing for grad school in geology.




The night before:




And it utterly poured, so I was on ECS again.

The course was a complete blast from the past, and felt like I was running Reno region autox in 1994. That is both a good and bad thing. Nationals-style it wasn't, but I had a great time.







Data from the event:

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

I have a series of plans for what's next.

G-Loc R8 pads and two-piece rotors, pads from SM and rotors from GWR.
Making a 2.5" legal catted mid-pipe for STR, in the hope that there will be a safety equipment allowance for the rules. If not, I bought a 2.5 (279.42 shipped from NY!) from a 2015 Fusion that I will build. I have a lot of MZR-DISIparts, so a forged 2.3 crank with a long rod/piston combo is tempting...
A Goal1 thermostatic oil filter pedestal and a CSF dual pass oil filter using -10AN PTFE hose.
Track day tires and wheels.
OSG, the factory diff is weak.
AC delete, which is legal because it was an option on 06-08. And it frees up room for oil cooler lines.
Xero Limit/MotoEast STR legal intake.

Rant #4: Xero sucks at comms. I ordered the intake which they claimed was in stock. I got a notice they were going to ship it last Wednesday, but no tracking number or update. Attempts to contact them by phone and email have gone unanswered. I fail to see how these places stay in business. Emilio, Ed, please carry more for NCs.

When I choose what class to run I will decide what to do next. The car is much better than I am, and I really enjoy it. I need to overcome my tentativeness, and just shut up and drive.

After the last event I added Goodridge braided lines, and the AWR Spec MX5 rear firewall.






The last time I weighed it was with the 255s, so I can't wait to see how it is after the AC delete, the 245 Yoks, and the two piece rotors. I am guessing it'll be about 2380.




Cat for my mid-pipe project, I wonder which will flow better...




And more wheels, the gold ones are for my track tires, which will be heat cycled ECF, the silver are for the blue BRZ at the autox.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Great writeup, and thanks for the props Jeff. Been a pleasure working with you so far. Can't wait to get those Xidas in your hands and see what you think - you're gonna love em.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Ultimately all of us Miata vendors are small operations, and margins are thin. Then customers ask a ton of really stupid questions all the time on the phone so that takes a lot of time from actually getting things built and shipped. It sucks for the customer, but things generally are not a ton better for vendors.

Also you need to watch out for Ed/Emilio at 949. They have a super good game being played. I have yet to find someone who can so easily make green bills leave my pocket and go straight into theirs. It is hard to say no to orange. Pretty sure they sprinkle orange club membership with CRACK to get you hooked.

Nice looking NC. I am loving my 06 that I picked up last year. Waiting on my Xida's to get in from Santa Emilio.

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

Here's where I have to disagree, while agreeing.

I have owned my own businesses—in the performance car industry, no less—for about 20 years now. Before that, between .mil and .edu stints, I have worked in the same industry since the late 1980s. Some were big and awful (Autothority), some were really clueless (TriPoint), some did a great job. Every business has its own character.

First: this industry would be great if it wasn't for 10% of the customers. And 25% of the vendors. I take great delight at this point in firing customers who are just toxic. It took DECADES to learn how to do it, and I'm still mediocre at it.

When I had my business in Virginia (moderately successful at racing, including a slew of national championships in road racing, ProRally, and rallyx), I made a foray into parts manufacturing in partnership with someone, concerting on Subaru parts. I also was the US distributor for a large Australian company that is now allied with Cobb.
The manufacturing experiment was a disaster for me, financially and mentally. Vendor issues, shipping issues, production issues, QC issues, you name it... But I made it right with everyone precisely because it was the right thing to do. The key was communication, and honesty, along with managing expectations.
And that is precisely where these vendors have failed. I ask for three things:
1) An accurate assessment of inventory, shipping time, and cost.
2) An attempt to communicate with me, especially given that I always couch my contact with "I'm in the industry, I know how crazy it is, I won't waste your time."
3) A communication if there is deviation from #1.
I have gotten that from a few vendors here over the years: SuperMiata, FlowForce, and FlyinMiata.
And for my customer who is "just about ready" (after three-four years? See my BFMR thread) to do a 1.6 turbo swap, you are the vendor of choice based on a lot of research.

And yeah, I can totally be "that guy" when I'm riled, and call and email multiple times a day. Realistically I am a pretty easy customer to deal with. There is some handholding, but mostly I am looking for verification of #1, and a confirmation there is a real human on the other end of the aether. When there is a failure usually I just take my money and/or product and never buy from that vendor again.

There are certain companies who I deal with who have had such amazing customer service I will never stray (Tire Rack). It's a great story that has been reinforced over and over with them. Both as a wholesale customer and as a retail customer. It didn't take that much, honestly, just adherence to 1-3.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

The vendors as a whole are one of the reasons i perennially consider leaving this platform. (Any generation)

949 is the only vendor that has hit every transaction on the nose. I have a nightmare story about pretty much every other one of them. (Barring Moss and Tarmac88, both of those have been completely painless)

Roda

Amen, Brother. Only thing I would change is "accurate" to "honest" in #1. "Accurate" just isn't always predictable (just look at the last 18 months), but if you're honest up front and hit #3, we're good.

Great NC build, BTW, to get back on topic. There's times I wish I had started with an NC, but by the time I really had Miatas figured out, I was neck deep in our NA.

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

I continue to wonder about building it as an uncompetitive XSB car (since I'm going to be uncompetitive no matter what), and to that end...

Here is the 2.5 I bought. 2015 Fusion engine. $279.42 shipped from NY. They can't possibly have made money on it. All the wires and hoses were disconnected as opposed to cut. All the openings were plugged. Only shipping damage was a broken nipple on the VC.




V8R/Goodwin light brake rotors front and rear. Coleman made the rotors. These are the "race" front rotors. The hardware was pretty crap, so I removed the flange nuts and replaced with jet nuts. The best part is that you couldn't get a socket on the nuts to use a torque wrench with the supplied hardware. And yes, the rear hardware rubbed the backing plates, but those could be clearanced. Also G-Loc R8 pads from SuperMiata.







Finishing off the underhood part of the AC delete. Here's the part number for the Mazda pulley:





And 245/40-17 ECF along with closeout gold 17x9 RPF1s. I have a thread in wheels and tires documenting the tires more closely.

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

Plans change.

I am now going to run the car in XSB, ClubTR, and hillclimbs. So I am selling the RPF1s, and moving to a wheel that clears the brakes I have chosen.

This is where the car is in terms of weight, with half a tank:




Last it will look like this:



I also apparently ordered a bunch of Conti ECS instead of ECFs. Oops. Tires on sale!

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Funny how they chose the most easily mistaken (when spoken) letters to differentiate.

This car's gonna be fun.

Toiyabe

iTrader: (2)

I agree. It's already fantastic. Here's the current plan:Class legality:

XSB for Solo2, ProSolo, NWHCA

ClubTR for GridLife TA
2.5 stock engine swap for GLTC/ClubTR:

1. 2.5 Fusion engine (on shelf)
2. Balance shaft delete plug
3. 1Goal intake manifold?
4. 70mm throttle body?
5. Radium PCV plate?

:Cooling and reliability:

1. Chikara oil pan baffle
2. 1Goal oil cooler adapter and CSF oil cooler (on shelf)
3. Tune
4. GWR1.8 header and all 2.5 exhaust (installed)
5. Moroso expansion tank (installed)
6. CSF radiator (installed)
7. Xero Limit intake​​ (ordered)

Drivetrain:

1. Fidanza light flywheel
2. Comp Clutch Stage 2 clutch
3. OSG (on shelf)
4. NC2/3 transmission with steel shift forks or rebuild mine?
5. Upgrade bearings in diff (on shelf)
6. RX8 front hubs (installed)
7. Possible RX8 rear hub upgrade?

Suspension:

1. Xidas (ordered)
2. Progress front bar (installed)
3. Stock rear bar (installed)
4. Racing Beat front endlinks (installed)
5. SM rear swaybar endlinks (installed)
6. Offset Mazda front balljoint bushes (ordered)

Brakes:

1. StopTech C43 BBK front (ordered)
2. Rear GWR two-piece rotors (installed)
3. Front pads TBD
4. Rear pads G-Loc R8 (installed)
5. AWR brake ducts

Aero:

1. Singular hood vents
2. BBFW rear spoiler kit (ordered)
3. Racebred front 3” splitter (ordered)
4. ProfessionalAwesome splitter supports (ordered)
5. Front and rear spats (fabricating)
6. D&G race hardtop (installed)
7. Fender vents?

Wheels and tires:

1. 17x9 Enkei RPF1 (installed - coming off car)
2. 17x9 PF01 (ordered)
3. 245 A052 for autox
4. 245 Conti ECF HDPE/hillclimb/GLTC
5. 245 RT660 for ClubTR
6. 17x10/255 combo if I can find wheels

Safety/Interior:

1. Sparco QRT-R driver’s seat (installed)
2. Passenger seat TBD
3. Racequip 6-point (installed)
4. NecksGen Rev2 Lite (ordered)
5. Shoes
6. Fire suit
7. Gloves (installed)
8. Socks
9. Balaclava
10. AWR firewall (installed)
11. Good rollbar and harness bar (installed)
12. Shift **** (installed)
13. Fire extinguisher and mount (installed)
14. Battery cutoff
15. Possible full cage or 6-point

Misc:

1. Relocate battery to trunk?
2. RaceCapture (installed)
3. GoPro?

Weight:

1. Strip trunk interior
2. Remove rear bumper beam?
3. Lighten or fabricate new front bumper beam
4. Go on diet (me)
5. Remove sound deadening