Another moderate power thread that hopefully won’t stay moderate
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
Hi all. I’m happy to say that my miata is finally turbocharged. I’m running the usual setup- td04 13t, 420cc’s, diypnp ms2. So far she is running good with no problem with a street tune using autotune at 8psi. Future plans are ordering a kinugawa 19t billet wheel and housing and throwing in a set of forged rods, bearings, studs, head gasket and aim for the 250whp mark. I’m wondering if it will help if I use stock 94-97 pistons to lower the cr and keep costs down.
Last edited by Pepovr; 09-19-2018 at 06:32 PM.
#2
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 856
I'm same place. 420cc not enough to support the 13t, just put in FF. The TD04L-13t is still all I want, however. I just want to maximize it. From many builds, that seems to be about 235WHP.
See other threads about the futility of 19T wheel. Vlad says swap in a VF Something-Something to accomplish what you want.
Put your location in your profile, so it shows under your name in the posts.
See other threads about the futility of 19T wheel. Vlad says swap in a VF Something-Something to accomplish what you want.
Put your location in your profile, so it shows under your name in the posts.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
I'm same place. 420cc not enough to support the 13t, just put in FF. The TD04L-13t is still all I want, however. I just want to maximize it. From many builds, that seems to be about 235WHP.
See other threads about the futility of 19T wheel. Vlad says swap in a VF Something-Something to accomplish what you want.
Put your location in your profile, so it shows under your name in the posts.
See other threads about the futility of 19T wheel. Vlad says swap in a VF Something-Something to accomplish what you want.
Put your location in your profile, so it shows under your name in the posts.
#4
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 856
I have had excursions to 210 kPa with no known ill effects.
To be clear, I am staying with the TD04. I was only suggesting you go to the VF. I should be good with the 235 or so WHP, which should remain safe.
Question will be how much boost, and therefore torque, I apply at 4500-5000 RPM. In other words, the compressor map on the 13T should deliver the same HP at the lower RPM. That's my thought.
Wow, you may be the first Bulgarian. Welcome.
To be clear, I am staying with the TD04. I was only suggesting you go to the VF. I should be good with the 235 or so WHP, which should remain safe.
Question will be how much boost, and therefore torque, I apply at 4500-5000 RPM. In other words, the compressor map on the 13T should deliver the same HP at the lower RPM. That's my thought.
Wow, you may be the first Bulgarian. Welcome.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
I have had excursions to 210 kPa with no known ill effects.
To be clear, I am staying with the TD04. I was only suggesting you go to the VF. I should be good with the 235 or so WHP, which should remain safe.
Question will be how much boost, and therefore torque, I apply at 4500-5000 RPM. In other words, the compressor map on the 13T should deliver the same HP at the lower RPM. That's my thought.
Wow, you may be the first Bulgarian. Welcome.
To be clear, I am staying with the TD04. I was only suggesting you go to the VF. I should be good with the 235 or so WHP, which should remain safe.
Question will be how much boost, and therefore torque, I apply at 4500-5000 RPM. In other words, the compressor map on the 13T should deliver the same HP at the lower RPM. That's my thought.
Wow, you may be the first Bulgarian. Welcome.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
Ordered the 19t billet wheel. I'm curious what its gonna be like. I may up the boost a little bit to 170-180kpa but wont go too crazy until I change the rods. Lets see what the bigger wheel can do
#9
dyno or butt dyno? carpassion channel has a video on shinny billet wheels and their affects on butt dynos.
He did show an improvement on the dyno though, just not a huge difference. He figured its a 7% decrease in the amount of time to build psi at certain rpm ranges... or something like that
He did show an improvement on the dyno though, just not a huge difference. He figured its a 7% decrease in the amount of time to build psi at certain rpm ranges... or something like that
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
dyno or butt dyno? carpassion channel has a video on shinny billet wheels and their affects on butt dynos.
He did show an improvement on the dyno though, just not a huge difference. He figured its a 7% decrease in the amount of time to build psi at certain rpm ranges... or something like that
He did show an improvement on the dyno though, just not a huge difference. He figured its a 7% decrease in the amount of time to build psi at certain rpm ranges... or something like that
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
Right I played with open loop ebc today and added 3 psi which is what i wanted but a problem occurred. The AFRs started fluctuating like crazy. I used tune analyze live during the run but it doesn't seem to get any better. Do you guys think that the wideband needs calibrating or i just need a tuneup? Or could it be the stock 18 year old fuel pump with not enough flow?
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
Right. So I got a few bits ordered. AEM fuel pump and ev14 mustang injectors are on their way and made a hardwire harness for the pump while I'm waiting. Also I purchased a set of Manley rods from a mt member. I haven't opened up an engine before so I was wondering if someone could share some wisdom. Can I just install the rods with standard size acl rod and main bearings if the crank has no scoring? Do I have to change the counterweights on the crank for the Manley rods? Cheers
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Europe, Bulgaria
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 14
The wideband wires got pinched from the gearbox so that was causing the afr jumping around. Anyway got some ev14 injectors and got the car tuned. Running 14psi at 60% duty. Gonna drive it like this for a while and then going fully forged with wiseco 84mm pistons and manley rods, billet pump gears etc. Pistons came out of a bp05 any idea if they’re gonna clear the bp4w head?