I've always reused pumps, never had a problem. It is the most well lubricated part in the motor, not exactly something that's going to wear out easily.

What pump are you running in your compound build?

Stock VVT pump that came on the motor.

*takes out popcorn*

*grabs a soda*

*forgets phone at home*

I love your style, Pat! :likecat:

You also have to remember who Pat is and what he does with his car.

http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/44/44fa4...44d945a321.jpg


I am in the camp with Savington and would not reuse and oil pump. Go for the BE pump now and just be done with it. Yes it costs a bit more up front, but as someone who has had multiple oiling issues with my built motors, long term it is worth it.

I sort of expect it to break one day just from everybody saying they fail on everyone else's cars. Apparently I'm the luckiest guy ever.

You keep saying stuff like that, when you know full well everyone is talking about failures while using the car on a track (cooked spaghetti track not uncooked spaghetti). Your lack of failures are a result of lack of road course usage. It is not shocking.

Whatever it is, I'll take it. Gotta be curvy track usage that kills all of the oil pumps, cause it isn't power or RPM.

I don't know if I need to respond to that comment

does anyone need me to explain why road course is harder on the car and creates more failures at lower HP levels than drag racing?

No who cares? Some people build street cars, not track cars. Track cars have tons of stuff done I don't have done for the same reason, cause I don't need it. It's no secret that street cars and track cars are totally different, and have different failures from use. In fact that's well documented. Now where is my popcorn...

I'm not saying the way I use my car is better than the way you use your car. All i'm saying is that it's no mystery why several of your parts haven't failed while others have in track use. And it does have to do with power and RPM.

Ok. I remember reading here that the stock gears break on some cars. And that they fail because the material they are made of sucks and just shatters when the crank flexes too much, the gears can't handle the stress and just shatter. Good OP gears are way stronger, and can handle this stress and not shatter, cause material is way stronger/tougher/fatigue resistant/etc. Stronger part handles stress without failure better than weaker part.

Agree so far?

I would "speculate" that high HP and high RPM's would load the crankshaft more, and stress the gears on the crank more. And by speculate, I mean that's a fact. If you believe this to be false, stop reading.

If this crazy idea of "higher HP and RPMs increases flex of the crank" has any truth to it, then I stress OP gears higher than almost anybody.

Your argument "And it does have to do with power and RPM" is that of fatigue failure (extended amount of time at high RPM fatigue fails the gears on curvy tracks, with enough power to flex it enough). Very possible, but if so I should have broken a pump several times by now as I've stressed mine way above the level that (with extended time on a curvy track) fails gears from fatigue.

I THINK that my harmonic damper is dampening vibrations on the crank shaft, and that is what is keeping my crank/bearings/oil pump from showing any signs of wear and no failures at all. That's my theory.

It's not just fatigue failures from a certain number of cycles at a certain load, it's fatigue+heat failures from many cycles at high load without cooling off in between loads. That's why 100 runs down the drag strip over a couple years or whatever might not break something that would break in a single track day, or even a single 20 minute session at full pace.

So it's the heating of the OP gears + hard use that breaks them, not just hard use alone?

I'm not necessarily referring to OP gears specifically, though I recognize that's what started this thread drift. Is that not a reasonable idea, though? I mean, does it not make sense that sustained high RPM high load use would make those parts more likely to fail?

A quick search in sintered steel shows it's typically annealed at 400*F. So if oil temps are close to 400*F I could see that affecting the gears strength.

Pat, you don't get it. You've shown over and over that you never will. I think it's easier to just say that you're wrong, yet again, and not waste my time trying to explain why.

I'll agree it's easier to say I'm wrong. Probably the easiest thing to do!

I just don't see the point in trying to discuss it. Anyone with half a brain not only knows that you are wrong, but also knows why you are wrong.

Anyway, back to my ignore list you go (where you belong).

Sorry to waste your time.

For all the people that "with half a brain not only knows that you are wrong, but also knows why you are wrong", I'm curious what I specifically I said that was wrong, and what is correct.

Does HP affect crank flex? Does RPM affect crank flex? Does crank flex affect gear loading on an oil pump? Do track-car oil temps affect the strength of oil pump gears in a way that street cars do not experience? Do harmonic dampers dampen harmonics on a crank shaft? If I'm wrong on some or all of this, I'd love to see some evidence that proves it. Been wrong many times before (have broken several motors over the years, mostly tuning mistakes), so could very well be wrong on something about this.

Ugh. I got my registration renewal today. I know I'd have to get a smog, but a buddy of mine has a smog shop so no big deal. However, I seem to have been randomly selected to be required to take it to a STAR station. Looks like I need to go fully back to stock, and if I'm going to do that, I might as well throw in the built motor when I put the go fast bits back in. Pretty annoying because I was going to put that off for a while.

"Randomly selected" :squint:

I haven't been not randomly selected for a test only star station for any of my cars in like a decade.

Right...

all cars of that vintage are "randomly selected"

Exhaust was a little on the loud side after my parents borrowed the car or a bit. Took a peak and found that the turbo outlet was missing 3 bolts. Upon closer inspection, the other two weren't even finger tight, and one has backed itself half way out. Should I be locktite'ing these, or just torquing down harder?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c173a540b0.jpg

You can crank the turbine bolts pretty tight. I just use anti-sieze on the threads and lightly grease the mating surfaces with wheel bearing grease.

I don't think lock tight will hold due to the temps. You could try some ResBond if you had some spares of it. Otherwise just tighten them down as much as you can. I only have had one other customer have issues with them backing out, and it was right after he ported the turbo. We think he just did not tighten them enough when he put everything back together. Since replacing the bolts and retightening he has not had any issues.

Bolts replaced with much tightness. Should be good to go now!

Thanks!

I use stage8 locking hardware everywhere on my turbo. Only thing that would stay.

From time to time I actually work on my car. This week was one of those weeks! I rebuilt the shifter (OMG what a difference that makes!) and I made a radiator cowl out of ABS.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...048fe61d0d.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ccadb9e53.jpg

That shifter!!! im glad you finally did it, it was probably the worst shifter on a Miata i have ever felt. hope all is well!

Yeah, the shifter feels amazing.

I found a few occasions to drive my car in the past few weeks. On my last drive someone failed to see a stop sign and gave me a little love tap. Their insurance game me a check and today I'll start buffing this out.

Well, if this was anyone else's car, it would really suck. But considering how you got to this point, congratulations on the check. :bigtu:

Making progress. I decided to cut off the parachute while I was at it. Now I'm working on paint . Doing the front bumper too because it's chock full of chips and chunks.
I added pictures in case anyone else needs to pop out a dent.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d7e44defa.jpgBig dent
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7f3dd968c8.jpgHeat 'er up real good
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3e2dc9316a.jpgPush it out starting with the biggest point of impact
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a803778718.jpgLike that
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d23268c19c.jpgThen move on to the smaller dents. It's so easy a three-year-old can do it.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...253c18dde3.jpgSand
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f11c6fe8f3.jpgReady for paint
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...79d4ea24ec.jpgCut off the parachute

So I made an epic mistake. I figured that the paint was so easy I could do it with my eyes closed, but as it turns out it helps to use your eyes to read the labels of the materials. I laid down the base coat just fine, but then I accidentally used reducer instead of hardener to mix with the clear coat. I had to strip the whole thing and start over, and the stripping took longer than the painting. Super annoying, but that's what I get for not paying attention. The end result is not too bad, and while I was at it I did the front bumper (which was in suuuuper rough shape) and de-badged.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7569ae934a.jpgLaying down paint, again
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aadf1ca0e8.jpgNot a show car shine, but I did manage to avoid getting too much orange peel. The clear laid down nice and smooth.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...55a4c6f5ee.jpgNo badges
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...978736d1f6.jpgtrimmed bumper

Wow, maybe one day I can get you to do my bumpers.

That sounds dirty.

:facepalm:

Aw yeah!

:dancegay:

What gun did you shoot that with? Can you lay down the idiot's guide to doing this in your garage?

I have my ventilated hood that I need to paint, which has some scratches I'd like to take care of, and my hardtop is green. The car is blue. Contemplating doing this myself. My father-in-law has painted a couple of cars and I'll be talking to him about it when I visit next week.

Alright Mobius, I'll take a crack at it. Caveat: if you want to do a good job, don't follow any of this advice.

1. Materials
I do all my paint shopping at TCP Global. They've got quality paint and supplies, and have great customer service. Don't try to be a man, and just call them before ordering anything. They can be a bit on the surly side, but super knowledgable.
Find your factory paint code here, and choose a clear system (save a few bucks with Restoration Shop, or splurge on the House of Kolor - your call).
Grease and wax remover, lots of shop towels, yogurt containers or paint mixing containers, and some extra thinner for cleanup.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e04ca96983.jpg
Paint + reducer. Use the extra reducer for cleanup.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...86ebd8ee85.jpg
Clear + reducer + hardener. That reducer is too pricey for use for cleanup.

Get this gun kit. For $80 it's a ridiculous value.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8312ca2b92.jpg
So many guns, such little price

You'll need a compressor. I am using this one one, but at 2.8 CFM it's pretty under powered. To compensate I over thin my paint/clear and shoot it from a 1.0 gun. You'd be better off with a ~3.5 CFM compressor, which you could rent or buy, so it will support shooting from a 1.4 gun.
Get some sandpaper and something to sand with. Random orbital is best. If you are renting a big ass compressor, than any RO will work, but they eat air like nobody's business, so if you are buying a compressor it's not good value to have to get one big enough to support it. Seriously, you need like 15-20 CFM to run one. When I was using air for all my jobs, I daisy-chained two compressors together to provide enough air for my RO, and then I could still only run it for 3 minutes at a time. I ditched the big compressor and just use a Makita cordless now. It's super good value for $100.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3f9f2627a2.jpg
Safety gear. This is the one place not to cut corners. You know how clear coat is basically just thin epoxy? And then you know how you basically make a huge thick cloud of vapor when you spray it? Just imagine what happens when you breathe that in and it condenses in your lungs and then cures. Nitrile gloves, safety glasses, and most importantly a solvent and particulate respirator are not negotiable. Suit and hat are recommended, but I don't always bother.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...536bc5d9cd.jpg
You must have one of these or better

Filler either for plastic or metal as your job demands. Don't cheap out here because a good filler is way easier to work with and won't just fall off the first bump you go over.
Spray can of sandable high-build primer. Optional, but helpful to get a super smooth finish with minimal effort. Since you'll be sanding it, the spray can is way easier than dealing with another paint to mix and spray.

2. Prep.
Painting is relatively easy, cheap and fast. Prep can take minutes or months, depending on your standards, and will have the biggest impact on the final product. If you are just looking for something that's going to look similar to the rest of your 15-year-old car, then factor a couple solid hours of prep per panel. If you can take off the part you are working with, do that. It's way easier to work with when it's not bolted to your car.
First, you want to knock down the clear coat with ~300 grit with your random orbital sander. This let's the paint stick, so it's mandatory. I do this dry because you are really looking to scratch it up real good. No need to take out all the clear, but it's no big deal if you go through in some places. Just try not to go through to the primer.
Once you've sanded, wipe the panel down with water and a shop towel and the low spots should look shiny and the high spots should be down to the paint or even primer. If you are lazy, or it's a racecar, jump to paint.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8bb4cfa897.jpg
All the high spots get cut away the most. If your car is in decent shape it shouldn't look this colorful.

Sand into the low spots and fill them with filler. Lay on filler in thin coats, expecting to do 2-4 layers and sanding in between. It dries quickly so it's not that big of a deal. Use your hand to feel bumps and valleys here, and sand-fill-sand-fill till you're satisfied with the shape. If you are just repainting a perfectly good hood or hard top, you can skip all this.
Last step before painting is to use a sandable high-build primer. Anywhere you went down to metal or plastic should get a couple hits of this stuff, as well as anywhere with tiny scratches and such. You can do without this step, but it is helpful and should only add an extra hour to your total project. If you skipped the filler, then it's especially a good idea.
Now you are basically ready for paint. Spend some patient time taping off trim and such. if you are painting on the car, do a really good job taping, and use old bed sheets to mask off big areas. You are going to feel like a real idiot if you cover your car in overspray.
Lastly you need to get your garage ready. If you have a bunch of sensitive stuff hanging around pack them up. Everything in your garage will probably get tiny droplets of paint. It's basically unnoticeable, unless it's something really valuable, like your wife's car. You can also shoot outside, but you run the risk of getting dust on your paint and getting paint on your neighbor's dog.

3. Paint
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a8371bbf30.png
Safety first

This is the fun part. Mix your paint with reducer and load up your 1.4 gun. Wipe the part down with grease and wax remover (required), and once that's flashed off you can wipe it down with a tack cloth (optional) if you want it extra dust-free.
Your paint will specify the coat thickness, overlap and flash time. It's probably going to be something like 2-3 medium coats with 50 % overlap and a 5-10 flash time in between each coat. You can practice on an old part or some cardboard or whatever to get your rhythm down. Shoot from 6-8 inches or so, and that you should end up with is long, smooth shots from one end of the panel to the other, moving ~1 foot per second or so, and overlapping with the previous strip by 50%. Wet layers look wet (obviously), dry layers look dry, and medium is in between. It should have a sheen and not be speckly, but it shouldn't look like a pool and shouldn't drip. Solid colors are pretty forgiving, but metallic colors will show flaws in your painting technique. For example, if you take a step mid spray you'll make a lighter or heavier paint spot, which will be noticable with metallic paint. Don't step while you are painting if you can avoid it. Oh yeah, and if you get a paint drip don't try to save it. If you want your car to look great you'll have to let it dry and sand off the drip and repaint.
Clear coat is similar to the base coat, except usually it's sprayed on with 1 medium coat, and then medium-wet coats. You really build the clear on, and by the last coat it should be pretty wet so that it creates a continuous layer, instead of being bumpy (called orange peel).

4. Reassemble
If you did your job right, you won't need to sand the finished product. People do, but I don't. If you do want to sand or polish, do it after the clear cures, but within 24 hours. It can be a real chore to get rid of all the swirls when it's fully hard. I would just leave everything over night and then slap it back together.

Added a couple pictures

Injector Pictures
 

Per your request these are the new injectors and all the numbers I could make out on them

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...939434bc62.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89c2f54461.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6ec0b4a091.jpg

Cool, thanks. I haven't seen the ID1050X IRL. It should be a great injector. The body model number is in your second picture - 0 280 158 ___ what are those last 3 numbers?
I'll watch your thread to see how fitment is with that short body.

I replaced my clutch slave. Holy jesus it makes a big difference. Mine was totally dead. And it only took half an hour. I should probably just do whatever Twibs415 says right away instead of waiting a year to get around to it.

That's some fantastic info, thanks. I'm going to give it a try. What's the worst that could happen!

I already have a 25gallon air compressor rated for 5.1 cfm @90psi that I've had for a long time without a true purpose for having it. This shall give it new life. Sanding my deck caused the purchase of a new Bosch RO sander so I'm good there.

Which plastic/metal fillers do you use?

Also, removal of the side skirt tupperware has left me with two issues, removal of the adhesive tape the factory used, and then filling the holes left by the mounting clips, 5 or so on each side. About 1/4"x1/4". Do you have any suggestions there?

Famous last words. I love it!

This is the plastic filler I used. I found it easy to work with and it came out well, but can't speak to longevity yet. You can get it at TCP global. http://www.tcpglobal.com/UPO7061-media-01_2.jpg

For body filler any bondo will do, but I like the .

You can take car of any gooey residue effortlessly with laquer thinner, but go easy on paint that you aren't redoing because it's pretty harsh.

Body filler is the right thing to fill in those holes.

Good luck! Hit me with any questions that come up and I'll try not like you astray.

So something like duraglas for the filler?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7653044

Naw, I'd say that's overkill. That one has glass fibers for strength and reinforcement. You'd need that if you need to actually mend something, like a crack, or rust holes or that kind of thing. For filling drill holes and scratches, just standard Bondo or the professional gold version will do the job just fine and be easier to work with.

You the man. I can't wait to post the pictures of my epic failures at attempting what you made look easy.

There are some things that are basically irreversible, like brutal overspray, but for the most part, if you mess up you can just take a fresh crack at it if it dries all shitty. Oh yeah, and you only have one pair of lungs and eyes, so that's another thing you can mess up if you aren't careful ;)

Dialing up my boost and struggling a bit. My target boost is 15 psi, and it was feeling like spark blowout at 12-14 psi. I pulled the plugs and checked the gaps. Three of them were gapped to .035, and one was .037. I gapped them all down to .030 and did some logging today. I don't feel the spark blowout, but it's not getting me over 13 psi or so. I'm probably doing something stupid - many poscats if someone can point me in the right direction.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f1483f6564.png

Log, Tune

go check out my closed loop ms3 thread. if anything at least test it in open loop to see if it actually works, cause looks like your valve is hitting 81-85 boost duty and still not really doing anything. do you have it hooked up correctly?

Thanks for that thread 18psi, it's awesome! I suspect that I've burnt out the valve since it's routed properly and it was working before. Tomorrow I'm going to try on test mode and see if it does it's clicking for me, and I've got another one on hand I'll toss in there and see if that fixes it.

I'm quite sure now that it's a spark related issue. When my boost tops out below target, I get the spark blowout feeling even with my plugs gapped down to .030. I'm running super cheap coils right now, and rather than replace them with OEM, I just pulled the trigger on the LS Truck COP setup. It was only a few bucks more than OEM.

Nice. I have high confidence in the LS coils helping...every car I've put them on has only gotten better as a result.

Let me know if I can help with the LS coils in any way. We make a kit for them here in Oz so if you need something like a PnP wiring loom or any such Items I'd be happy to help.

Actually, yes! I was thinking about doing that, but why duplicate effort? You have a PNP look for vvt?

I was going to go with the sadfab bracket, but I think it's too good for my car, so instead I'll shoddily fold up some aluminum.