When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Working on a fairly large purchase. Need to get that squared away before I can do anything else with the car, so it may be a while before there are any updates.
I did remember to add more coolant though. Gonna be 17f on Friday, so I need to get that freezing point down.
Car has been sitting all winter, it warmed up today, but I didn't get a chance to drive it, and now it is gonna freeze again. :\ Why do they have to salt so heavily around here.
Still waiting on the engine from the junk yard. They were supposed to get it checked out last week, still haven't heard anything. Need to yell at them again.
I am still working on dealing with that other large purchase. It is taking a while and holding everything up....
So, still working on the big thing. But, found an engine. It happens to have a half decent car wrapped around it still. Not VVT, but that's ok. 99 BP4W. Smokes a ton on start up, but I am just about convinced it is just valve stem seals at this point cause it stops smoking and runs like a peach once warmed up. 163k miles, but for $1k and I drove it 60mi home? Not gonna complain. Good top, good suspension. Some rust, far from the worst I have seen. Ugly paint. It will be a fun toy for a bit while other things happen.
Well that only took 6.5 moths. Finally done with the big thing I have been working on.
My Miata is finally at it's new home.
And I am moving in next door!
Finally joining the homeowners club. Which means everything else is going to be at a stand still for a while. Closed the deal May 18th. On the 20th I got my first taste of homeowner fun when my watersoftener decided the brine tank needs more water.... Ugh. Oh well. let the adventure begin I suppose.
Poor life choices have been made. Turns out, other than some rust around the wheel arches, the NB is actually in fairly decent shape. So it is now my daily. The engine will eventually come out, but it won't be any time soon. Super healthy though. 190psi +/-1.5psi across all four. And somehow the original shocks, date coded 01/98, are still fine at 165k miles. Whatever.
Anyway, with that in mind... Morris is staying 1.6 for now (Bring on the negcats). I am just going to find a pile of cheap/blown 1.6's, build a decent motor out of them (maybe ebay rods, but odds are it will just be a cheap stock rebuild) and then swap out the tired 1.6 that is in there now.
And since I decided that, it was time to order parts. Direct from Bulgaria to NJ in 32 hours (I don't know how it shipped that fast). But it is beautiful. Should make for a fun little ripper. If I can get it dialed into make 3psi around 2300rpm and full boost at 3500 I will be happy. End goal is 190ftlbs for as much of the band as I can make it, or 15psi (max my boost gauge reads), whatever comes first.
Spent this week working on collecting engines. Got an offer I could not refuse on a true unicorn. Went and picked it up, even driving it onto the trailer with a jump start. 1990 Auto miata. I have never seen one of these in person before. A true abomination. I got in to start it, went for the clutch and my brain just record scratched to a halt trying to process how wrong it felt.
But, for a 12 pack of Landshark, how could I say no? It pisses out both brake and trans fluid, and has uh... some rust. Still need to see if it has the original engine in it. At 210k miles, it isn't guaranteed. But, if it is, I will be using the pistons and exhaust cam in the rebuilt engine. Will be a good parts car. I still need to get under it and see how bad the rust and everything is. Also need to put the driveshaft back in so I can move it around at home...
Surgery time. Morris looks worried. Don't worry buddy, it will be ok~
Yes the hole is a little high. I don't plan on ever running AC with this engine in the car. When I build a new engine for it, I will drill with AC in mind. And yes, I know there is an oil leak... Fairly sure it's the head gasket at the front corner there. And the main seal that is behind the welded crank sprocket....
For anyone wondering just how big of a drill you can use for this... Glad I picked this up at a garage sale recently. Only 1/2" shank drill I have. Worked great.
FWIW, when you have the motor out, you can put an oil drain port between the subframe and the motor mount. It's a much more direct shot from the turbo there, better in every way than the front port, except for the fact that you can't drill it with the motor in the car.
Cordus: That is the plan when I build the new motor out of the car. This was just a "Hey, I am home for once, and got all the things I needed to get done around the house done. Lets drill the oil pan."
Would have been a lot quicker to done if I had had the JB Weld on hand. Thought I did, but guess not. Shwoops. Fixed now, and some errands run. Just need to leave that overnight to cure, then flush with some mineral spirits and do an oil change. Which it is time for anyway.
Looks like my welds held. No signs of leaks between the manifold and downpipe. That's all I wanted.
Well, that explains the power loss I noticed. Cat's fairly clogged up and in rough shape. Not bad for 160k miles, the last 10k of them boosted with my inept tuning.
Found one small issue with the Kraken TD04 1.6 manifold. I also currently do not own an angle grinder. So decided to put this off until tomorrow. Also, is there any reason not to trim the three studs that are had to get at on this?
If you slot that and cut past of the top off, it'll still have enough real estate for the nut to hold it in place.
If you're worried about it at all just put a washer on either side of it.
That is the plan. Just didn't feel like fighting with it this evening. Especially cause the o-ring ripped and I don't have another (and everywhere seems to either want $6 for just the o-ring and shipping, or I have to order a water pump?)
Clocked the turbo and did some test fitting today. Few minor issues with the placement with the 1.6 kraken td04 manifold. The inlet hose for the PS pump tries to go into the inlet of the turbo (hammer and a block of wood fixed that). The main issue is the oil drain from the turbo comes out directly above the engine to chassis coolant hose. Ordered a short barb drain (may try cutting the stock one?) and am going to finally put on the NB lower hose I have floating around (if I can find it). That should give me some clearance to make it all work.
Now that I have mentioned the bad, I should talk about the good. The manifold is amazing, as is the outlet casting. Everything just kind of snicks together and the downpipe fits so perfectly. I really am impressed. I like how low the turbo sits, but that is what causes the above two problems. When I build the new engine in the future, I will figure out something else for the mixing manifold and the lower rad hose and that should fix all that, as well as let me clock the turbo so I can just drop down with the hot side piping.
Ok, progress slowed down since my great grandmother passed on wednesday. 98, and in good health up until the last 6 months, then passed in 24 hours. I hope I can only be so lucky!
Anyway, other than some minor fitment issues that I have the parts on the way to fix, the kraken 1.6 td04 setup is quite nice.
Is there any reason I should not run the oil feed like this if I make a little bracket to keep it from rubbing? Too close to the turbine housing? Or will this be ok with some light heat shielding and the oil cooling it?
Bracket would go here to hold the hose. Maybe too close to the end for flex?
Oil feed adapter has a 1.5mm restriction. This is correct for a TD04, yes?
And had to move this bolt. It wanted to hit both the compressor outlet and the oil feed line....
How do you mean? As in go off the oil pressure sender port? There isn't any need. The 1.6's have the feed port there. I was just talking about how I ran the line.
11-08-2017, 07:14 PM
0
