I got the engine out. Created quite a mess in the process. A couple things to note. First off, there was no thermostat in the old engine. I have a 180 degree thermostat coming but wonder if they were having issues with cooling and removed it. With the big aluminum radiator and double fans plus the reroute I find it hard to believe cooling was an issue.

I broke the bolt for the ground at the front of the intake. Not sure how but it's flush and I don't have the tools to get it out. I think I can move the grounds back to the 2 bolt bracket that goes from the intake to the fuel rail and be ok. It's just a few inches from where they're supposed to be.

None of the bolts holding the trans to the engine were tight. Not even snug. Starter bolts were basically hand tight. Probably a good thing I had to pull everything out. The rubber boot that goes around the hole for the fork was also missing. Probably not a huge deal but it's gone.

Clutch was a 4 puck and had definitely seen better days. Pressure plate was pretty well beat. There were no oil leaks to speak of in the back but someone went crazy with the rtv last time the rear main was changed. I mean globs.

It took me about 2 hours to get the engine out by myself. That includes labeling everything with painters tape. I know getting it back in won't be as easy, hoping I can recruit someone to help me. I only missed one thing, the clutch line. I removed the slave but didn't see the bracket where it goes from metal to rubber, it had a clip holding it to the engine. Otherwise it went pretty smooth. I have the intake side of the engine assembled and the trans bolted up. I still need to put the alternator, power steering pump, and exhaust/turbo on. I won't be able to run the AC and luckily the car the new engine came out of must have had the AC deleted to because they already replaced the long bolt with a shorter one through the oil pump.

Once I got the old engine out I was able to see all the way through the block. #2 to the moon.
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2 hours first time pulling the engine? Nice. Glad to hear you found some things that needed attention while pulling it. Well, not glad, but I'm glad you found them before they became and issue haha.

Looking forward to seeing it go back together. This has been a fun thread to watch. All the right questions being asked and proper following of the "protocol" lol.

Pulling the engine from my daughters totalled car a few weeks ago was a practice run. This went much smoother. I have yet to put one back in so that's probably what's going to get me lol. I'm excited and nervous at the same time. Pre first start anxiety.

I do want to get that broken bolt for the grounds on the intake pulled out. I'm not sure if the other bolts I want to use would be a good ground. I could just swap the top of the intake with one of the other 2 I have.

I've really been trying hard to document what I'm doing but by the time I have something I want to share I'm covered to my elbows in grease. Here is the clutch and pressure plate that came out of it .
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I'm thinking about pulling the exhaust off before it gets dark and I just noticed they used bolts instead of studs. I'm not a mechanical guru or anything but I think studs would be a smarter choice here. What do you guys have for input on this?
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Probably made install easier, some runners get in the way of getting a box wrench on, but yes, the standard practice is stud/nut. With a bolt, some of it's strength is taken up by being twisted, where as the stud is not. So the theory is the same torque on a bolt vs. stud is less stress on the stud, and/or can be torqued higher.

You hit the nail on the head curly. They didn't put the 2 most difficult bolts in, I would never do that personally. I don't think I saved the nuts from the other engine either. I'll have to dig around through the mess and see if I can find enough.

I have 4 of 5. Just ordered new ones that will be here Thursday. Shouldn't prevent me from getting it going this weekend. Fingers crossed. Still waiting for the thermostat, was the last thing.

Last night as I was trying to go to sleep I remembered the shift boot was completely torn. I just ordered a whole shifter rebuild kit. OEM. I never had an issue with the way it shifted it felt good and I only missed 4th gear once. I went with the brass bushing was that a smart choice?

Only thing left is the power steering pump. I searched and found the question asked but never really answered. What size belt is needed for AC delete? It's a 33.5 inch belt. I found the one flying Miata sells on Amazon for $7 shipped. Bando part number 4PK860. Just leaving this here for future reference.

When pulling the exhaust/turbo off the old engine there was 2 bolts missing and only the very center one was actually tight. Putting it on the new engine took some pretty crazy finger acrobatics. I got them all on and tight.

im putting the ebc in with the new engine. I probably won't get it setup right away since I'll be on the wastegate for a while anyway but it'll be in ready to go.

Excuse the mess, but here is where I'm at. If I had someone to help me right now id probably put it in. Power steering belt won't be here til Saturday along with the shifter rebuild. Barring anything crazy I should be able to start her Saturday.
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Annnnnd, I feel like an idiot. When I pulled the coolant reroute off the back of the head I expected to see a thermostat. I didn't. I was just about to put the new thermostat in and just happened to notice there is one in the reroute... Glad I noticed.

Everything is done, she's ready to go back in. Really hoping I can get it back in as smoothly as I got it out. You guys have any tips?

I was going to say pull the bumper, but you already did. I found having a ratchet strap around was nice if I needed to change the angle a little or push it towards the firewall the last inch or something. I think you got it

Today's question. I know my bearing tolerances will be loose. Should I use 20w50 or do you guys think 10w40 will be ok? Thinking I should at least use 20w50 for break in.

I run 15w40 typically, though I've run 20w50 in hotter months with no issues. For break-in be sure to run a cheap non synthetic and change it often.

Question's a few threads back but you don't need to measure that belt if you delete PS too ;)

Jokes aside, looks like you're just about good to go. I'd run 15W40 like Nate said. 15W40 Rotella T6 is the general choice around here. I ran Ford 15W40 diesel oil for break in as it's a non-synthetic.

I considered deleting ps to but seemed easier to just get a shorter belt lol. I'll grab 15w40 thanks guys. I'm really tempted to leave work early today and get it in...

15w40 T6 Rotella alone for break in and a ZDDP additive or LiquiMoly added for track use. My engine was built loose for high power track use.

I'm ready. She's ready. But, I don't want to hit any snags and be out here after dark. Going to wait til Saturday. I'll have a hand Saturday to so should go pretty smooth. So close.
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Started on it tonight. Got it lined up, started lowering it. Little bit of wiggling and the passenger side motor mount dropped right in. 2.5 hours later I still can't get the drivers side. I can get it to where it's lined up but when I lower it it moves 17 inches. Exaggerating but man, I'm pretty sure my son just learned some new swear phrases. Gonna let it sit for the night and go back after it in the daylight.

Went and picked up the rest of my fluids this morning. When I got home I jacked the motor up from below gave it a shove and the driver's side dropped right in. Labeling everything was the best advice anyone has ever given me. Got the wiring hooked up minus the ground which I'm still unsure what to do with. Would a bolt on the valve cover work?
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