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At least the kerosene jugs are empty? hahaha
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I said things were gonna get stupid, let's bump it up a notch.
I've decided to break this up because it's such a long post, will likely be a multi-day thing. Also, because otherwise, it'll just be "......TLDR?" NAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWSSSSSSSSS. It's something I've always wanted to try out and never have. The plan is to just use a 35 shot for fucking around on track when people don't lift or just for overall shits and giggles. This is in no way a serious thing. But, since I don't really come across all that much as far as documentation on miatas, I figured it might be fun to document it. So off we go! I went with a nitrous outlet x-series universal (wet) system. It's more of their budget system but I'm hoping that's alright since I'm going with basically the minimum shot size. Now before I start, every nitrous site has the following instructions and I'll repeat them as well. FOLLOW THE FUCKING INSTRUCTIONS. DON'T LISTEN TO YOUR FRIENDS. WIRE IT LIKE THE MANUFACTURE SAYS TO WIRE IT. Now that that's out of the way, let's look at what the universal kit includes, what the instructions say to do as far as wiring, and all the stuff we're going to not do. Remember, do as I say, not as I do! When you first unpack everything, your cats will likely be interested. You'll have a couple of packs of stuff as well as a 10lb bottle (unless you went for a 15lb). Let's take that all out to the shop. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d3852b246.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bcbae10c15.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aaefd4bf99.jpg Workbench is a fucking disaster, let's start by cleaning that off. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4b9fb10a42.jpg That's better. Now we can get a better look at things, I'll go through each part of the kit individually. Starting off with the wiring! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...850b058a56.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3dea22d2a0.jpg Throw it all in the trash. Fuck that shit. We're better than that. Actually, save that relay as a spare relay, but other than that, big meh on quality of components. That switch looks like a knock off of a knock off of a knock off. It's like someone saw a toggle switch and described it in a game of telephone and the end person manufactured it. It feels cheap, it looks cheap, throw it in the trash. Butt connectors, well, we'll end up using some, but if we're gonna use butt connectors, we're using good ones. I personally like the Molex Permaseal line of butt connectors, but uninsulated and adhesive lined shrink tubing is a good solution as well. No matter what, just make sure you're making good crimps and using quality components, fuck Amazon for buying wiring stuffs. Wires, nah, unknown quality wire and not gonna be enough anyway. WOT throttle switch will also be skipped, the MS is going to control that. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...06cfa855d2.jpg AN lines. Cool cool. Not much to talk about here. Red is fuel, black is nitrous. -3AN ends go on the nitrous injector. Like I said, not much to talk about, moving on. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6faa55954f.jpg There's a bit to unpack in this picture. On the top left is your jet bag and chart. Basically, look at the chart and pick your jet sizes, it's pretty easy to do, but judging by the number of times they say on the website to call if you're confused, apparently the dumb v8 dudes have a really hard time with charts. In the top left are your solenoids. These control when fuel/nitrous gets injected into your engine. Right below that are the fittings for the solenoids. It's important to note that there is one -3AN to 1/8NPT while the rest are -4AN. We'll cover where that goes later. Directly below the jet chat is the injector/nozzle guy, this goes into your intake and is plumbed from the solenoids. Below that and to the left is an adapter to put the injector into the intake. Below that is a 1/8npt to -4AN fitting, I....don't really know where it's supposed to be used. Whatever, free fitting! The last piece is the splice piece that goes to your fuel line to provide fuel to the solenoid/injector. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...858476a143.jpg Next up is hardware and brackets! These brackets mount the solenoids, there are three but only enough bolts for two solenoids. Cool cool. There are some 5/16 bolts, SAE hardware, gross. The other bolts and stuff go to the WOT switch and stuff, idk, I didn't use them. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...23095f4ef2.jpg Now that we've gotten the kit out of the way, let's take a look at what I picked up from a local offerup listing! The first thing was a gauge for the bottle. Knowing nitrous pressure is important as the pressure should be between 900-1000psi. I don't really know what that little manifold is, this stuff is old-ish and it won't work on my bottle, so we're just gonna take the gauge out and put it on the bottle. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...172fb6a329.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...72ada7edbb.jpg Next up is a purge kit! This is for purging the air out of the system before you use the nitrous. If there's air in the system, when you press the nitrous button it will dump just fuel for a short amount of time while the nitrous travels up what was an empty line. Obviously not super helpful for performance to bog the engine down. I'll need some additional fittings and lines for this kit, but that's alright, I got everything for cheap! That switch is going straight in the trash as well. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...986d026beb.jpg What I really wanted in this box of stuff I bought was the bottle heater! These are kinda expensive, and I got this whole box of stuff for $130. The wiring is pretty gross, but I can re-do that, not the end of the world. This keeps the bottle at the right temperature. Temperature changes the pressure in the bottle and too cold is no good (just like too hot). Wrap this around the bottle and you're good to go! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9bcf6b6a9.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...82d81f685f.jpg Last up is the interior pressure gauge. Like I said, knowing nitrous pressure is important and having this in the cabin will help with keeping an eye on things. Also, it came in the box, so free! Not much to talk about there, it's a gauge. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ecebacbd4.jpg This is the shit we're throwing out (JK, it's going in a bag and on the shelf) and this fitting/adapter I'm not using on my application. There is a picture of how the adapter looks if you do use it. Note that it kinda should be used on a flat surface, not something my intake has. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7125a8f84e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c1de81098.jpg I've also picked up some Otto P9 switches. They're nice little momentary switches and come in a few different colors. "Fast and Furious" Stewart wants red for nitrous, but "this is a fucking joke" Stewart wants purple. Neither side has won this long-fought battle yet. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c7de1fbb0f.jpg Next steps are how the basic assembly of the kit goes. Take your fuel solenoid and put the -3AN fitting on the out side and one of the -4AN fittings on the in side. Take your nitrous solenoid and do the same thing with the remaining two -4AN fittings. Now take one of your brackets and two machine screws and put them in. Orientate it however you feel, you'll likely have to change it later on anyway. Do the same with the other solenoid. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e7855b4426.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12e4fe4f12.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...91069c063e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d632734dd4.jpg Taking your injector, you're going to choose your jets and place them in the fittings as pictured below. For this application, I'm starting out with a 35 shot which corresponds to a .031" jet for nitrous and a .016" jet for fuel. Hopefully, this gets fuel in the right range, if not, we'll lean on the MS a little bit or try a .017" jet. Take your two short red and black lines and attach the -3AN sides to the injector now. The other sides go to the outlet of the solenoids. On the other side of the nitrous solenoid goes the long -4AN line. On the other side of the fuel solenoid goes the shortest red line which is attached to the fuel line splice. That's the basic layout of the lines for the nitrous system. (this does not include the purge circuit) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b6da899a70.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bb5c6130fa.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...461b1ded9b.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2b39816b7a.jpg |
Nitrous....part 2!
First up on the install list is bottle placement. I would like to offset the driver a bit, so putting it in the right rear corner is probably best. Ideally, the nitrous bottles should be placed parallel with the car and mounted at an angle so that the pickup tube works during acceleration. (you know, miatas pull a lot of GEEEEEs during acceleration) The problem with mounting it right here is that the line contacts the shelf thing, so without some spacers or something, this isn't going to work. I ended up mounting it perpendicular to the car with the tank rotated 45* which is an acceptable solution. The biggest thing here is following how the manufacturer says to mount it. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...424a506fe8.jpg https://www.mre-books.com/sa50/images/sa5010.gif Let's move to the engine bay. Gonna need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the lines. -4AN requires a 3/4" hole to go through. Technically it's a little smaller, but the nearest grommet size is 3/4, so that's what's getting drilled. Put some blue tape over the end so you don't get shit in your line. Pick a spot to drill. See that smaller hole? Don't drill there. There are wires back there lol, luckily I didn't hit them. Poke the line through and go grab it on the other side. Oh, don't mind the random steel spice in my coolant line, I just sold that FM piece a couple weeks ago and needed something quick to keep the lines from dumping coolant everywhere. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c13fb71c2.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f32f0c21f.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...05d895d2db.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6d250184f8.jpg If you drilled where I drilled, it's come out between that support and the airbox, which works nicely. Make sure to either route it away from that clamp or put some rubber hose over it (I usually use a coolant line since it's relatively cheap and plentiful) so that it doesn't rub through anything over time. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0b764ad2a0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c98292be8d.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d885dd66b6.jpg At this point, you'll want to take the seat out. I suppose you could keep it in, but it's 4 bolts and you'll thank yourself. Mazda left this nice open area to run the line, although on newer cars it may have wires in it, my car is a 91. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3eb959f299.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6695c63585.jpg Run that shit up and towards the back. I removed the big bulkhead thing, whatever you call it, to make routing a bit easier. I used a couple of d-clamps, zip ties, and heater hose to make sure it was well secured and wasn't going to chafe on anything. And now you get to the back of the vehicle. For a miata, this is waaaay too long. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6482668655.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cae5e85f9d.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d36cd0f578.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...812e5060f7.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...65a7701482.jpg Before you do anything else, take the hose and blow compressed air through it. If there's anything in there, this should clear it. Now, immediately, connect the two ends to the bottle and the solenoid so that it doesn't get anything else in it. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...99bf343f52.jpg This next part will kinda be dependant on where the nozzle is mounted and where the intake runs. The injector should be placed 2-6" from the throttle body according to the instructions, unfortunately, that's in the middle of a curve. I'm going to put it right before that angle. In the future, I'd like to move it a little closer, but I need a longer straight section at the front. I welded a 1/16npt bung to the intake, although if I were to do it again, I'd do it a little more vertically rotated towards the bottom of the tube. I wanted to give myself a little room for a wider radiator in the future, but I think I gave myself too much. That's alright though, it works for now. Aluminum welds were kinda trash, I probably should have warmed up on something else, but whatever, moving on. I still don't reaaaally like how the AN lines are run, they....kinda just dangle around and since they're the same length, but come off the injector at different angles. Idk, not super pumped about it, I need to figure out a better way to secure them before driving the car much. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48be7c9da9.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4c5575dcd5.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cf7877f88f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e9c5f2d557.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...689b7caf03.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94f3c3c17e.jpg Your fuel and nitrous solenoids location are pretty dependant on intake location. I found the shock tower to be a location that seemed to work. I created a shrine to Corky's Fuel Hentai Monster, all that's left is some Cuervo. I pretty much hate this and I'll be changing it in the near future. I hate the lines that are looped around, I hate the exposed AN line that rubs through anything it touches in approximately 7.3 seconds of BP paint shaking. I need to extend/change where the main fuel line runs. Anyway, it's how it sits right now, I'm not happy with it, but I have to deal with it for the time being. I only used the premade hoses from Nitrous Outlet, so I was working with what I had and that certainly didn't help things either. Hopefully someone can learn from my mess and do it better their first go around. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e23374996f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d469ae423b.jpg If you have a purge solenoid, you'll also want to plumb that. I got this little connector from Nitrous Outlet for it (00-01701). Find a place to route the outlet of the purge as well. Mine is going through a grommet that used to be for airbag wiring and into the fender well. I didn't want it through the hood, but didn't have enough purge line length to exit the fender. Sad days, but I'll get some more hard line for it. https://static.summitracing.com/glob...1701_RC_ml.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2a5d8b35ef.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc561acc3e.jpg The last part of the plumbing is the nitrous gauge. I had originally planned on mounting this on the a-pillar, but ended up landing on the radio area. I haven't really had a radio or anything in this car for years, so a delete panel made sense. I grabbed an already designed one off the internet and add a few holes for the arming switch, heater, and gauge. I only had purple PLA, so lol, purple it was. The print came out well. I then ran a -3AN line to the back of the car where the bottle was. This was a 96" Earl's line btw. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc49a335f8.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1127b01091.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89e325e9ca.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ada8ddfba3.jpg Now that the system is plumbed, electrical is up next. This is where things will deviate a bit from how the kit's instructions say to hook it up, but it's also where caution needs to be taken to not fuck it up. I'm also gonna have fewer pictures in this section because, well, it's wiring, there's not a whoooole ton to take pictures of. |
Originally Posted by Scaxx
(Post 1589585)
Let's move to the engine bay. Gonna need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the lines. -4AN requires a 3/4" hole to go through. Technically it's a little smaller, but the nearest grommet size is 3/4, so that's what's getting drilled. Put some blue tape over the end so you don't get shit in your line. Pick a spot to drill. See that smaller hole? Don't drill there. There are wires back there lol, luckily I didn't hit them. Poke the line through and go grab it on the other side. This next part will kinda be dependant on where the nozzle is mounted and where the intake runs. The injector should be placed 2-6" from the throttle body according to the instructions, unfortunately, that's in the middle of a curve. I'm going to put it right before that angle. In the future, I'd like to move it a little closer, but I need a longer straight section at the front. I welded a 1/16npt bung to the intake, although if I were to do it again, I'd do it a little more vertically rotated towards the bottom of the tube. I wanted to give myself a little room for a wider radiator in the future, but I think I gave myself too much. That's alright though, it works for now. Aluminum welds were kinda trash, I probably should have warmed up on something else, but whatever, moving on. I still don't reaaaally like how the AN lines are run, they....kinda just dangle around and since they're the same length, but come off the injector at different angles. Idk, not super pumped about it, I need to figure out a better way to secure them before driving the car much. A few thoughts: Why did you run the nitrous line that way instead of drilling a hole in the trunk and running it along the bottom of the car? Also, wouldn't it be better to use a bulkhead fitting instead of just having the hose loose in a hole? Is the nitrous/fuel mixer/jet holder/whatever thingey supposed to be mounted at a 90 degree angle to the pipe? Seems like it would want to angle towards the direction the air is flowing? And yeah, I agree that this seems like the kind of thing that would benefit a lot from making your own AN hoses of the right length. --Ian |
Haha! Yeah, it's certainly not common, which I think is part of the fun part. I'm still learning a lot about it, but it's been a fun process. As Geoff brought up the other day, some tracks don't allow it, I know some organizers don't like it either. But at the end of the day, if someone tells me to pull the bottle out at their event I won't be upset, but it should be fun for the times I don't get told to pitch it lol. And it'll be fun on the street too for just messing around!
IIRC I read somewhere about people recommending against running the line under the car, although I can't remember where I read that, so maybe I'm making that up :P I would have to route it through/around the fuckery that is Mazda's wiring/brake/fuel/clutch lines behind the intake though, which wouldn't be gobs of fun. Pros and cons both ways I think. A bulkhead would certainly be a good option, although I'd have to pull the dash for it which would be pretty meh haha, the grommet is decently tight and the hose is pretty well secured on the inside with d-clamps, so hopefully it doesn't give me any issues :) I should have addressed this in my write up and I almost did, so I'll cover it now! :) That question depends on the type of nozzle. With this one, it mounts at a 90* to the airflow since doesn't inject straight on, however, I believe some port injection nozzles are mounted more in the direction of airflow (don't quote me on that though haha) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0856213c77.png Yeah, definitely high on the list to re-do those lines differently. It's pretty disgusting as it sits |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...05d895d2db.jpg
Two perfectly good holes right there if you remove the un-used EVAP core. |
Originally Posted by boileralum
(Post 1589596)
Two perfectly good holes right there if you remove the un-used EVAP core. Step bit go BRRRRRRRRRRR |
What's the point of a nitrous system if the purge isn't visible and obnoxious? :hatecat:
Great tip on blowing out the line with compressed air. |
Originally Posted by Joseph Conley
(Post 1589604)
What's the point of a nitrous system if the purge isn't visible and obnoxious? :hatecat:
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Originally Posted by Scaxx
(Post 1589605)
Does one even own a nitrous system if the purge doesn't empty half the bottle when it's opened?
--Ian |
Originally Posted by Joseph Conley
(Post 1589604)
What's the point of a nitrous system if the purge isn't visible and obnoxious? :hatecat:
I vote you blast the passenger in the face. Serves them right for getting in the car ;) Great write up though, I'm not sure I've seen anyone type it out before. Somewhat bothersome that the electrical hardware is so shockingly poor :/ |
I'm gonna start off with a picture from the installation manual. Basic wiring of this is pretty simple, although, I'm controlling it with the MS and not a WOT throttle switch (which I think is dumb), so the wiring is a bit different.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...19568fe21b.png Before anything happens, if you're using the MS nitrous control, you need to be careful where you are pulling your power for the switched side of the relay from, it needs to be power during ignition only. I used Nitrous 2 as my output since Nitrous 1 is controlling vvt. What I didn't realize was that when the ecu is off, it is grounded. Since this is a triggered ground, that means, when the ecu is off, that relay can be powered. I wasn't going to do an arming switch originally since my safeties were being controlled by the ecu, but I ended up doing one anyway as an extra safety. Now I fucked up originally and grabbed a hot power, which meant the solenoid opened when I turned off the ignition because I didn't realize that output was grounded when the ecu was off. Don't do that. Also, do not grab the radio or cigarette lighter power, these are on during ACC. This means that when you turn the key, for a brief instant as the key turns past ACC, the ecu will be off, and those wires will have power, opening the relay and solenoids. This may help your car during cold starts, or it might blow your intake off, best just not to fuck around with it. An arming switch can help prevent this, but I'll say it again, ONLY GRAB A POWER SOURCE THAT IS ON DURING IGNITION. The first thing I'd recommend doing is putting the solenoids on a connector. This will allow you to quickly disconnect them if need be. It will also allow you to disconnect them in the future and run tests and stuff. I used DTs (Technically AT) for this, although for the most part, I've used gt150s when doing stuff on Brad. Just make them removable, you'll thank me later. Do not actually connect the solenoids until you're ready to test the systems. Also, disconnect your battery while doing wiring things. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...28118c5260.jpg I've been thinking about this for a long time, so when I put my MS in, I put Nitrous in and Nitrous 2 on a connector for future stupidity. Nitrous In is expecting 12v, Nitrous 2 is a triggered ground. You'll need to pull a couple of powers. The first is for your Nitrous In input. The next is for the purge solenoid. If you have a gauge in the cabin, make sure to grab power for that as well. And last, a main power for the relay and a power for the switch side of the relay. As I mentioned before, this needs to come from an ignition only source and I would recommend an arming switch. I grabbed power for the switch side of the relay from the blue plug in the engine bay and ran the wire through the interior. I used a quick disconnect for this, although the proper solution would be to use the right connector. I was having problems getting a good crimp on the terminals I have though, so I may re-do that in the future with a connector since I already have them. I also used a toggle switch here as the arming switch. The main power for the relay I grabbed off the fusebox. Maybe dumb to grab an always hot power, but it's what I grabbed. The rest of the powers I grabbed off of the radio power. My purge solenoid is a bit old and I wasn't sure how much amperage it pulled so I measured it with a couple of my shitty multimeters. Both came in around .7 amps, so no relay here, just gonna run it straight to a switch. Because I wanted full Fast and Furious mode, I'm putting buttons on the steering wheel. Which then requires some coiled wire, which is surprisingly hard to get for cheap/quick. But coiled cable specialist is probably your best bet for a large assortment of lengths, number of conductors, and decently cheap. I got a 4 conductor 22awg 10' extended length for a decent price shipped. I cut this bracket out on the vertical bandsaw but I'm waiting on the new plasma table to make a new one. Kinda meh on the symmetry of this bracket, but it'll work for right now I guess. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c2e78866e2.jpg Run one power from the radio wire to one side of the purge switch, run the other side to your purge solenoid. Taking another wire from the radio wire, run it to the nitrous switch. The other side of this will go to the Nitrous In input. The wire that's hot during ignition on will run to a switch and then to the relay switch power. The switched ground on the relay will be the triggered ground coming from Nitrous 2 on the MS. That's pretty much it. The solenoids don't care which wire is power and which is ground, so connect both of them to the main power on a relay and then ground the other two wires. Here's a terrible fucking drawing of what it should pretty much look like. Sidenote: I really wish miataturbo would stop fucking up picture orientation. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d60e228ce.jpg Last bit is the bottle heater. Wrap the actual heater around the bottom with the thermocouple held in place by the velcro. This is the ground trigger for the relay, they used 14awg wire for a relay ground trigger which is...interesting at best. One end goes to the relay switch ground, the other goes to a ground. I wouldn't wire this with vamp clamps and quick disconnects (or spade terminals if you want to trigger Albert) but it's what it came with and I didn't really have a lot of room to fix stuff, so I'm going to keep it as it is for the time being. The relay switch power is run from the center console area where I have the switch panel I previously mentioned. Other than that, grab a main power for the relay/heater and a ground for the heater. As you can see, I still need to clean up the remaining sound deadening material. At some point in Brad's life, someone dumped a mixture of oil and brake fluid into the trunk and it soaked into EVERYTHING. God it was disgusting. But most of it is gone now at least. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d5e80cb30c.jpg Once you've got all the wiring run, go ahead and enable nitrous in the MS. A couple things here, don't hit the nitrous at too low of an rpm, you will fuck shit up. I've got mine at a minimum of 4k, I've heard 3k min other places but that was also more for v8s. I've also heard near peak torque, basically, just don't do it too low. You also don't want nitrous when you hit the rev limiter, so make sure to disable it a few hundred RPM before. I set my minimum TPS at 90%, once again, you don't want nitrous going off on part throttle lol. Last bit, rule of thumb is 2* of timing retard per 50 shot. I've got mine set at 1.5*. Obviously this is part of the tuning stage, and I may be able to get away with less, but going by the rule of thumb at the start certainly doesn't hurt. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...501434f548.jpg Once you've got everything set up, it's time to start testing things. Test your bottle heater, do things get warm? If so, check that off. Plug in the solenoids. With the car off, did they click? If so, unplug them immediately. You've got your shit fucked up. Make sure there is no power to the relay when the car is off or in ACC. If they didn't do anything, nice. Now test the purge. Did it click when you opened it? If so, nice. At this point, you're ready to test the nitrous operation. But first, you need to 100% make sure fuel is going to inject with the nitrous. Leave the nitrous solenoid unhooked and make sure the bottle is off. Drive the car and press the nitrous button. The extra fuel should bog the engine. Make absolutely sure this happens and the ecu doesn't allow you to engage the nitrous early. Then plug your nitrous solenoid in. With that done, you're now ready to race Dom. Oh, and don't blame me when you fuck your shit up. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f91892adf1.jpg |
@EO2K
I wasn't really thaaaat surprised by the quality of electrical components, it's pretty much what I expected haha Also, that brings up a good point about nitrous safety. Nitrous comes out at like -130*F, so care needs to be taken not to be close to the purge or when handling it lol |
Originally Posted by Scaxx
(Post 1589675)
care needs to be taken not to be close to the purge or when handling it lol
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If you don't get your bare skin out of the way fast enough, you *will* be furious.
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:rofl:
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Saw this and immediately thought of your thread.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...18164fc217.jpg |
Hahahahaha, yessssss :rofl: Twisted tea memes ftw :rofl:
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I picked up 10lb of nitrous and have a date with Vlad this weekend. Hopefully will have ripper vids by monday
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