m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Aren't all OE cantilevered IMs braced? Word has it the Miata's IM is braced to reduce stress to the head/studs- so the load/vibration stress is present. Curious to hear a professional welder's opinion too since the cracks are in the center of the welds vs. at the edge in the tube.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Every Miata one is. I had an OE manifold on my last car that had an air to water intercooler built in and had a blower on it that wasnt braced. That was like 40 pounds of weight at least + the belt tension. Of course it was on a significantly smoother 4 banger than the miata.

cyotani

iTrader: (8)

amazing build thread sir. That was an enjoyable read. Keep it up!

yank

iTrader: (1)

I ended up FINALLY getting a Job at PREracing as the new product development engineer!

For those who are doing or have done the FE3 swap please contact me. I'm planning on making a run of dry sump pans and turbo/NA manifolds. Might be down for going after other ideas if you have them.

Update on my personal build. Passed emissions with a V-band Cat and denatured alcohol in the tank. I'm back to catless and running strong. Now that i'm at PREracing i'm in the planning stages of a high compression rebuild with a new turbo exhaust manifold, dry sump, intercooler, A/C delete, methanol build. No ETA yet but i'm getting excited about the project ahead.

mrvwcastner

I will have Exocet by mid February, I already have bare v8 roadster engine cradle, next question is what do I swap? Let me know if you want to use my cradle for mockup.

greddygalant

iTrader: (3)

PRE huh... Did you guys ever re calibrate the dyno so it doesn't read so damn high.

yank

iTrader: (1)

It reads about 30 hp lower than English's from what I've heard.. I'll ask around and see when the last time it was calibrated.

greddygalant

iTrader: (3)

Lower or higher? Josh (curly) made 30 more on the PRE dyno than he did on the English dyno.

curly

iTrader: (25)

They have no RPM sync. It's...weird.

They use a random gear to get to a certain RPM, then tell the dyno, "this is 3000rpm" or whatever. Then its "sync'd".

Do not like.

Seemed like a lot of nice guys though, hope you enjoy it!

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Weird. I've done that before on a dyno, even with an inductive pickup, or obdII. It really pisses off the dyno guy at a club dyno day when you want to log through the obdII port and force them to use the inductive pickup on your subaru.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Nice. Will be cool to see what you do for the hotside parts.


I am underway with an FE3 Miata turbo kit (one off) that I posted a pic of the manifold in my pic thread on the fab subforums.

Keep the pics up brotha.

yank

iTrader: (1)

They typically don't use the inductive pickup on COP cars. Used it the other day on a Honda that came through the shop and it synced up perfectly according to our new tuner from what i overheard.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Here we go again!

Picked up another block from the junkyard. The crank keyway looks much than the first one i pulled.





Going with a 3 stage ARE dry sump part number 3120.
1/2" plate has been sent off to the machine shop to get cut on the waterjet.
3/16" aluminum plate ordered for the rest of the dry sump pan.
Custom crank pulley designed to run an alternator and has mounting locations for a 3 bolt mandrel for mounting my dry sump drive gears. (should be more low profile than the OE pulley and allow me to move my swaybar back ~1/2" to the OE mounting locations.
88mm H22 high compression pistons part number SC7133. **EDIT - Changed mind - SC7132**

bpt323

If your going so far as to tear out the crank. have it machined with a 2nd keyway 180° out, that will greatly reduce the stress load on the pulley.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Chickened out. Going with the 87mm H22 high comp pistons instead of the 88mm. This should leave a bit more meat in the cylinder sleeves to handle the higher cylinder pressures. After receiving the custom 155mm Pauter rods, checking rod/block clearances, and making the dry sump oil pan the block is off to the machine shop. (M&B Cylinder Head of Portland OR. Much more reputable than the last shop i chose.)

Anyone had experience with King Bearings? ACL doesn't make a race bearing for a Kia Sportage.. (who would have thought...) but king makes a street bearing for the FE3. From what I've seen its either this or OE. Might be another option out there though.

FYI, PREracing is now a dealer for Redhorse fittings. Myself and another shop car (Project Heavy Weapon) needed a TON of AN fittings and hoses so we talked the boss man into it.

I've been thinking about how i'm going to put the power down recently so I've been hunting for fender flares, body mods, wheel tire combos that will all jive. I've also been thinking about wrapping the car instead of re-painting this time. I havent settled on the exhaust manifold design yet but i know it'll be utilizing a GT30 flange. I've had enough of the leaky T25 flange. It seems like the longest I've been able to get out of it before leaking has been about 4000 miles. (Best results after using a vice grip to hold 1 corner down after stripping out one of the M8 tapped holes in the flange. Haha? )

This means i'll also be modifying the exhaust housing on the EFR6258. It hurts to think about doing this but i love everything else about this turbo. Any welder Bros have any advice (besides not doing it or waiting for treadstone to get their **** together) on which filler to use / tips and tricks for welding cast stainless to a Stainless GT30 flange?

FYI the new exhaust manifold will be reduced to 1.25" runners instead of 1.5" in order to more tightly package the manifold and to keep the exhaust gas velocity up.


Confirming fitment.


High comp H22 CP pistons (SC7132) with Custom 155mm C-C rods.


Rod and piston comparison.


collector in progress.


FE3 Dry sump oil pan. 1/2" flange will get re-surfaced to remove any warping after welding. Bungs and fittings by ARE dry sump. I did the welding myself so of course its not perfect but i'm confident i'll be functional.


FE3 Dry sump oil pan front view.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You should ask the F2T captain of the board if F2T bearings fit an FE3.

mrvwcastner

I'm getting rid of one set 9" 6ULs today, might get rid of the other set later this week. I think the guy who bought my Miata body with the flares still has it all, but I would put more agresive flares if I were you. The work looks good! My Exocet will be here this week or early next big build weekend 17/18 want to come out to the shop?

yank

iTrader: (1)

Ended up getting a set of Clevite bearings. Part #'s CB-1455AL and MS-1803AL at the request of Brian at M&B.

Yeah i'll try to make it down to check out the build mrvw. Assuming my car can at least make it to Beaverton before running out of fluids.

I plan on working on the car this weekend. I'll be able to make some hoses and get some of the bulk head AN's placed. The method for this swap is going to be to get as much work done up front as possible and then only be out a car for a week or so instead of months.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Nice parts and progress. Looking forward to this coming together- could it be "kia four cylinder power record"? You may already own that.

yank

iTrader: (1)

All of the fittings!



Torque Plate. The machine shop has everything they need to finish the job now. They get started first thing Monday!



Tank Mounted.



Catch can mounted. The filter is tucked up in a hole. I'm hoping it doesn't get too dirty there but i may need to make some shielding.