mighty mouse

iTrader: (9)

you can't see it in the pic, but there is a gusset on that driver's side mount. it's on the side closest to the front of the car, just a small triangle piece.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Hey Ben here are some pics of the pickup tube and oilpan.








can see the steering rack dent in this one lol.

Also, heres my first attempt at the KIA pan, lol welded by yours truly haha



Version2, the alum one, I find is much nicer lol

JoePianka

Very Nice Writeup... I actaully just joined this site for the sole purpose of following this thread.

I'm doing this FE3 swap into a S4 TII Rx7 for a DD as we speak (Ima RX7 guy).
KIA Fe3, Stock bottom end, ARP, Cometic Copper HG, Haltech, Internally gated 60-1...looking for about 350hp...and fuel economy hah.

I googled and found this thread and was excited. Very Awesome.

I've off and on messed with the Probe/626 FS/F2/FE3 since i was 16.

I was wondering why you did an adapter plate instead of sourcing a Jap/AUS B2000 Bell from a heavier duty Currier or one of those Vans? I picked one of those trans's cheap just for the bell.

I used the JGStools Log manifold kit (in pieces)... I'm not looking for too much power and a good quick spool...not baller, but cheap enough and functional.

Keep up the hard work! Where are you Located?

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Nice I was just thinking of doing that with my spare Kia fe3 for a winter beater! I was thinking of using the miata wiring harness and mspnp to cheap out on buying another ecu lol

You have a build thread somewhere? Start one! Or link it.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Awesome! Good to have you here. From what i understand the B2000 bell would connect the FE to the stock miata trans. Maybe the one you speak of is different.. if so it sounds like a way better solution than what i did.

I live in Glasgow Kentucky but im doing the build about 12 miles out of town in a friends shop.

Yeah feel free to post up a link to your thread. Is it on rx7club.com?

yank

iTrader: (1)

DC. Thanks for the pics. It looks like the aluminum pan you have is way deeper that the one im making. does it stick down past the subframe and bellhousing? Mine is flush. Ive got one piece left to weld on the oil pan and the pickup tube and ill be done. Im not sure how much oil i can put in the pan but i guess i can figure that out by installing the oil level stick and seeing how far the full line is below the bottom of the block.

My friend started pulling wires through the fire wall for the megasquirt today. still alot to get done before we start plugging stuff in but i figure the earlier we get started the more time we have to iron out issues.

yank

iTrader: (1)

What do you have the pan drilled and tapped for? Drain, and what else?

JoePianka

The US and most JDM/AUS b2000/2200 has the same style trans as the Na FC rx7/miata... The heavier duty currier b2000/2200 has the R type trans like the b2600(w the G6 engine) Bongo vans, and the turbo2 rx7s. AND it's not slanted like the b2600 trans, so the bell bolts directly to the turbo rx7 trans and to the FE motor. The one I got ahold of is a 5 speed column shift (cable link) out of a 91 b2000 currier that had a single cam FE on it originally. I'll snap some pics and post them tonight.

As for the build thread... Heh haven't started it yet, but now I have a reason!
It'll be linked to rx7club though.

I'm located in PA about 40mins west of Philly.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

My pan sits just below the subframe (.5") which kinda sucks but I wanted to have the capacity of atleast 4L which it is, barely. If your flush with it you'll be hard pressed to get 4L capacity without running your crank through an oil bath every rotation, the down fall of shallow pans I'm afraid. You can always run an oil cooler to add capacity as I was planning to do that aswell.

The taps are for the dipstick, drain and if it was done properly was supposed to be a temp sensor/turbo drain if ever required but it's in the wrong location for either! Damn welder didn't listen, needs to be on the exhaust side for obvious reasons.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Wow, good stuff. Just saw this one, really impressed with what I see so far.

JoePianka

Heres some Pics of the Bell vs. the FC trans


FC T2 trans and the FE3 Bell.



This is the rest of the trans

yank

iTrader: (1)

Freaking kidding me! Where were you a year ago when i started looking for parts. This could have been a huge time savings for me.

yank

iTrader: (1)

This is where i'm at as of tonight.




Just a few loose ends to tie up and it'll be finished. Pan is warped some from welding but i think i can get it straightened out enough to keep it sealed. I need to do some research on the baffle in the bottom of the pan. Im not 100% sure im sold on my current design..

JoePianka

Theres always the next one


Swing doors out of Piano Hinge at the bottom of the baffle so the oil can flow in, but cant flow out will help a ton w/ any starvation.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Yank that pan looks good. After seeing what you and Dean did with the pickup tube, I'm going to do the same to reduce the engine height since the engine is out. I found some chrysler engine mounts that should drop the engine while being a direct swap with Miata mounts. btw- the stock FE pans (Kia and Mazda) are just standard steel, not stainless. I've got two of them.

re: the bongo/ute R bell - IIRC that bell is ~20mm deeper than the RX7 bell because the R trans it was paired with has an input shaft much longer than the RX7 R trans. I assembled that bongo bell with the rx7 trans and was seeing less than half the clutch splines penetrated by the input shaft and maybe 2mm of the input shaft making it to the pilot bearing, of which 1mm of that is radiused. Like I said, IIRC, this was five years ago.

JoePianka

I'll be removing the t2 bell in the next few days... I'll take some measurements and let everyone know for sure... From a rough measurement, the input shaft on the currier trans is approx 6 inches from tip to the bell/trans mating surface. The t2 from, what I can measure, looks real close. Once I have it apart, I'll know for sure... Worst case scenario, I'll be throwing the currier input shaft in...

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Rob,

while I'm glad Ben and myself have inspired you to update your pan design I have to say I'm not sure which part of my oil pan is steel 8P

The JDM Mazda FE DOHC pan is aluminum (or atleast mine is), not stainless, not steel.

You should also consider a nice new trans with more gears than necessary lol

Six speed is a piece of cake to fit, and if you want to go that route you will have to make considerations regarding oil pan fitment.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Haha first time is always practice! My first pan sure was lol, ******* thin steel.

As for hinged baffles;
One more thing that can fail (get stuck open) and cause more issues than it solves. Fixed baffles are fine aslong as you consider how much oil your pump sucks up so you don't run the baffled area dry. Ben your baffle looks really low to the bottom, i hope there is enough clearance to allow oil to flow in faster than the pump pulls it out.

Also what did the capacity end up being, with that two step design I'm sure there's atleast as much as mine if not more.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I was looking at Ben's pan job and thought he welded up stainless to the sheet metal pan. I'm running a JDM FE now and it came with a fwd sheet metal pan- though like you, most others thought it was odd since they all had aluminum pans.

I'm still using 5 speeds because I still have them. And I just got another- so I have two left. Lessens the urgency for a transmission solution- but if a 6 spd shows up for the right price I'll probably grab it. I like easy.

I think the piano hinge is a good option for Ben's baffle box. That said, I just stock kia piece in a similar fashion to the Miata.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Man, reading all this is interesting. I love how you guys can come together and figure out these things. Serious thumbs up to you FE guys

If only there was a easy way to get the RX7 turbo trans onto a B6/BP......