skidude

iTrader: (3)

Like I said, I haven't driven the car for a few months, I could have the behavior mixed up with my old '94. That car had some weird issues.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

This comes in handy when your clutch hydraulics fail in rush hour traffic.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Dem, how much material did you take off when you surfaced the flywheel? It doesn't look like you machined the step pads to match, so that likely has a lot to do with your disengagement issues. DSM's are notorious for this. BTW, check to make sure you're consistently uncovering the pressure bleed hole in the master on the upstroke of the clutch pedal, or else the system won't adjust itself for disc wear.

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Hmm.. Not much. It's not having disengagement issues. It says in the manual that the master cylinder will likely need to be adjusted because it's a performance clutch. I wouldn't say anything is out of the ordinary at all.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

It doesn't now, but it did, obviously.

If you think about the motion ratio of the clutch system, 6" of pedal throw is only ~.1" of movement at the pressure plate. .020" change in setup height becomes a little more significant in that light is all I'm saying. If it functions at the limit of the adjustment range then right on, just be careful that everything is actually working correctly. One of my buddies chased silly master adjustment issues for weeks after doing an S2000 master swap on his Civic, only to find out that it was simply out of the adjustment range and wasn't reliably uncovering the bleed back valve.

Keith@FM

iTrader: (1)

The FM clutch has a lighter pedal than other performance clutches because we use more of the pedal throw. That's intentional. All FM clutches require adjustment of the pedal. It's a one-time thing at the time of installation.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

so did I miss something or what turbo are you getting now?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

He wants 400+ like a boss

soviet

iTrader: (10)

what turbo?
he's only selling the turbo so I assume he's getting something bigger yet fits his existing T25 setup...

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Likely modifying my manifold to take a T3. I'm open to suggestions on the turbos...

1. I'd like to keep the quick spool - Even if that means I dont break 400 whp.
2. I'm open to running a T3 Flange - I'll modify the manifold to support
3. If I need to get tricky and externally gate this thing - I'm open ot that too.

I'm currently looking at the GT3071R. At 20PSI I'll make some really good power.

As it sits - I'm probably going to have to:
- Upgrade my intercooler (I have the BEGI level 3 intercooler now)
- Modify my manifold for T3
- Upgrade my intake manifold - I'm looking to do the Honda manifold
- Possibly external gate - Most likely.

Renown Performance

iTrader: (8)

GT3251 would suit you very well, thats if you dont like the silver surfer.

miatauser123

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Brandon - I've been looking at the Silver Surfer more closely after we spoke. It sounds a bit too big.

I'd like to see a dyno of the GT3251?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I disagree on the 3251
If his 1st priority is spool I think 2871 .86 will suit him well. Its a t2 so no flange modification necessary. EWG is definitely a good idea though, and I'm not sure how well that thin walled s4 mani will like being cut and welded.

Either way though, a 2871 will probably require the least amount of modification to the rest of the system and have best pool. Probably will have to be run full tilt to hit 400 though (or really put that water/meth to use)

If you're goint 30r and larger, IMO you'll probably have to pretty much scrap most of your current setup and start over instead of hacking everything up to fit an externally gated t3.

Just my .02

Boost Joose

GTX2867.....most powerful/efficient t2 turbo out.

Renown Performance

iTrader: (8)

This is a STC gt3251 not a T2 we are talking about
When I ran my GT3251 on my B17 i made 323 on 9.5 psi

18psi

iTrader: (76)

B17 as in honda b17?

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Wrong. EFR is trampling over the GTX. Do some goddamn research.


I'd have to agree. If you want to keep it simple, the 2871 is probably your best option. At full tilt you can make 400whp (or damn close to it) and not compromise spool.

ATP sells just the CHRA and the comp. housing, so all you have to do is swap out the parts. You can even keep the turbine housing attached to the manifold and downpipe while you swap CHRA's.

Renown Performance

iTrader: (8)

What's wrong with my little Honda b17 haha.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Nothing. Except the fact that comparing our engines/setups to honda engines/setups is about as useful as pissing in the wind.
Hondas are designed completely different. They flow a ton more air. They make a ton more peak power. etc etc.

Renown Performance

iTrader: (8)

Lol. OP asked for a dyno cart of the gt3251. I didn't have one so I gave him some numbers. I know he knows his Hondas if he didn't I wouldnt of bothered sharing. Wasnt trying to compare engines just give him a helpful idea to what the STC GT3251e is able to do. If he plans on modding his manifold to t3 and run an external wastegate the the stc Gt3251e is still in his budget. He could stay t2 internally gated but the cost to redesign and set up the cartage and housing would cost the same if not more. Another plus will be better boost control and less chance of creep. He may even see more power because of it. He also won't have the option to go BB.

If he wanted to save a little more and wasn't concerned about spool between shifts i say just run a water cooler journal bearing. Expecilly if it's just a street car.