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I made the rather unfortunate and expensive decision to buy some Arios (mad JDM) fenders for Deviate last year. $850/pair from Rev9 thinking they were wider. Later learned they were only 23mm officially but more like 15mm when laid flush. Mediocre quality. Since then Rev9 has added another mediocre quality rear over fender from NUE that is 40mm.. and $500 less. Le sigh. We're having to sort of pinch the Arios fenders to get enough clearance for the 245's.
Self tapping sheet metal screws for now. Once we have the fit dialed in and they are painted we have some orange aluminum rivets we plan to use. Because orange is faster.
You can get the rear quarter inner and outer to bend out to meet the new overlay. I did something similar on my autokonexion overlay. I did the same for Orion too.
Start by releasing tab that's holding it in. Similar situation to front. I cut with buzz saw. Once done a heavy roll will get you most of the way there. The final lip fold over comes from baby sledge. Don't cut too much of the support or it will just flop when you fry to fold it over. Start the rolling and hammering before cutting those tabs.
Getting the the air off the front of the tires is HUGE. Well worth the effort! I like the look of it too.
Singular ventage. This is their standard 3 pc kit with the two outer universal vents. Also can be ordered from Singular as 5 pc kit. Outer vents are the outer vents from Singular's Subaru kit.
Some pics of Bullets S1 air dam and splitter work in progress. To accommodate the extra tire width, we allow the air dam to separate from the body as shown. The resultant gap should be covered but it can not be angled downward like a canard. Just a flat cap or block off plate level with the ground.
We contemplated allowing canards or diveplanes here but thought it would be too difficult to equalize with a simple set of rules. A curve plane generating downforce begins to stretch the abilities of the DIY mechanic. Drivers can build a second airdam & splitter for time attack, ST4 or other classes where you can go further. This car will have just the one front end. Vegas, our new S1 has a whole separate front end with giant splitter and low mount dive planes.
Quick search found three of my old posts and about a dozen others listing the Miataverse standard air dam material. Updated this post earlier in this thread with the same info https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...5/#post1412960
179283 WG (medium boost) can in the pic will probably make too much power. Cap for the class is 220. William's similar build wouldn't go below about 235 and that was with so little timing that it was breaking up. This a blueprinted NB1 with squaretop which should be even harder to tune down. Every source is backordered on the lower boost 179282 can. Andrew had one and over nighted it to me so we can tune this morning (Thanks!). S1 rules require an open loop boost map so it doesn't add power at altitude. So relative boost remains the same. Closed loop allows it to make the same absolute manifold pressure despite lower ambient which results in moar powah. The bummer is that we can't take advantage of the slick and easy to use boost target functions in MS. Instead we manually fill in a table through tedious dyne time. Not having a loading dyno at my immediate disposal, I'm dreading this part if the tune. I'll get it close this morning on the Dynojet then take it to Church next week for them to dial in on the Dynapacks. I'll take the med boost can and have them do the high power maps too.
Racing this weekend. Maybe it'll hold together. No time to do a proper shakedown and dial in chassis setup.Brand new build so there is always some little teething issues. We'll see.
Proto Qmax bits not anodized. MS2PNP. Stock ignition for now. COP's next week. Oil pressure gauges not working. 3" Enthuza turbo exhaust with muffler, quiet!
Heat shield on tirbo is something John whipped up. Not pretty but it works. I/C piping by TC Design in Campbell, CA. We have spiffy Radium catch can but didn't have everything we needed to get in installed. So we installed a Canton from both valve cover outlets and a check valve. Hopefully that works for at least one weekend.
Current suspension setup is 1100/500, 54106 (1.25") front and SPM 14mm adjustable rear on single adjustable Xida Race. Type 1 Torsen with 3.9 gear, 6 speed, SPM carbon kevlar race twin clutch. ES bushings.
Meanwhile, its sounds neat. Can't wait to drive it. More pics once it's all buttoned up.
The bummer is that we can't take advantage of the slick and easy to use boost target functions in MS. Instead we manually fill in a table through tedious dyne time.
It need not be too tedious. On the low boost can, you'll make ~7psi on E85, probably will need 9-10psi to make class power. First pull should be zero-duty baseline, then add 20%DC and see where/if the boost comes up. Then add 10% per pull to the entire map until you see a jump in boost, then 5% per pull until you get to your target power. On that can and valve, you'll be in the 35-45% range to make class power. Once you're making target power, you'll have enough data to write a curve into the open-loop table so that the throttle is as linear as possible.
f the car makes 180whp at 7psi/0%DC and 220whp at 10psi/40%DC, you would want to run 0%DC to ~80%TPS, then ramp from 0% to 40% between 80% and 100%. Write that in and you're done.
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